Top 20 MTX Thunder 1501D Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

This site looks like they may be able to help. diyAudio

call the company where its from

look on amazon or ebay but i would personally use amazon

there could be a list of problems... for one make sure you are using a ground cable 4awg or bigger and no more than 18 inches long this must be bolted to the body tight and a clean metal to metal connection. the ground must be the same size or bigger than your power wire. you should have at least a 150 amp altinator and a single dry cell battery. i use drycell to keep corrosion away. the longer your power cable the bigger it should be. at 20 feet you should run a 1/0 gauge power cable at least to a distribution block with the correct size to the amp. if your using a cap all cables must be the same size with the ground same size or bigger.

Connecting a single speaker, speaker impednce should be equal to or greater than 1 ohm. Connecting 2 speakers, each speaker's impedance should be equal to or greater than 2 ohm

the Control you are talking about is an External Bass Control also known as EBC knob you can probably find one at MTX.com or crutchfield.com or any authorized MTX dealer. Please vote and leave high marks. Thank you

Hi.

I am afraid you will have to do a bit of work at component level. Any fault in the gate section (eg an open resistor), can blow the FETs. If any of the FETs blow, the rest will blow because of the load, often almost immediately.

Check the gate drive, that is the section that prevents the FETs from blowing. If the 75339 keep blowing it is usually something wrong in gate.
Double check the resistors, ensure that they are factory specs.
Do not check only impedance, but also tolerance.
There should be capacitors near the FET, check them out to see if they look fine.
Check the zener diode connected the gate. That will cut off if load is too big. If a diode is shorted, then zener will blow.
Generally inspect the board for cold joints.
Check the PSU section.

I do not have precise schematics for this model. If you need to know the value of components (eg. the different gate resistors before FET), then the best thing to do is contacting MTX and getting the the component specs .

See:MTX Audio.

yes it should

Check all fuses on the amp first. If the fuses are good then make sure the remote wire is hooked up. If you dont wanna run the remote wire from the amp to the stereo then all you need to do is run a wire from the remote on the amp to the power on the amp. if the remote is not hooked up then you will get NO SOUND

THE AMPLIFIER NEEDS A 1 OHM LOAD AND YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SPEAKER TO PROVIDE THIS LOAD. THE AMPLIFIERS TERMINAL STRIP PROVIDES YOU WITH 2 POSITIVES AND 2 NEGATIVES, BUT THEY ARE ONLY FOR CONVENIENCE WHEN WIRING 2 DRIVERS. ACTUALLY THE 2 POSITIVES ARE THE SAME CONNECTION INTERNALLY ON THE BOARD, AS WELL AS THE 2 NEGATIVES. THAT BEING SAID, THE SIMPLEST WAY TO CONNECT YOUR SPEAKER IS TO PARALLEL THE VOICECOILS IN THE BOX BY CONNECTING THE 2 POS. TOGETHER AND THE 2 NEG. TOGETHER THEN RUN THAT POS. AND NEG. OUT OF THE BOX AND SIMPLY CHOOSE EITHER OF THE 2 POS AND NEG. OF YOUR CHOICE AT THE AMP. IF YOU EVER HAVE TO ADD A SUB, THEN YOU WILL HAVE 2 MORE TERMINAL LEFT OVER ON THE AMP. TO CONNECT IT TO AT THAT TIME. BY ALL MEANS, IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO RUN EACH COIL SEPARATELY OUT OF THE BOX AND CONNECT THEM TO ALL 4 TERMINALS, THEN THIS IS FINE TOO, AS EITHER WAY, THERE WILL BE NO DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER. LET ME KNOW IF I CAN BE OF FURTHER ASSISTANCE....V

I would stick with Kicker or MTX. The best place in my mind to get them is soncelectronix.com
Just try to mach the specs as close as possible. Make sure to look at the recommendations of the subs for the size of the box and the port volume.

More than likely yes. Just make sure that you have it grounded to the frame and you have sanded of the paint were you have it grounded.

Hello if your amp is the one above in the picture, MTX-1501D then your amp is not 1 ohm stable. Your amp is rated at 500 watts x 1 at 4 ohms and 1000 watts x 1 at 2 ohms. The amp has a safety circuit that if it senses to low of a load, ohms, it will only put out half it's power to protect the amp from shorting out. Read the manual. You can download it at retrevo.com or just google it and a manual download site will be in the search list. Hope this hels, Good luck. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

Hello tonytone54, The ground should go directly to the vehicle frame, never through a cap, fuse, or anything else. Also, if you are connecting positive through a cap, make sure that you charge the cap before connecting it. Hope this helps.

YES IT IS i have the same amp and i have it to 1 ohm its powering to kicker l7's which are 2ohm subs down to 1 ohm stability

Even if there is no visible damage, it could be that one of the transistors is blown, Use a multimeter to check the resistance of the transistors.

that might signal reversed poles, check all of your connections. pos to pos, neg to neg.

Remove cover and set in direct sunny window for long time, may be no problem with it, Took a month to dry one of my amps out enough that it decided it would come back to life, cell phone dropped in sink took 2 weeks, If you try power to it too soon --fried--, good luck finding diagram and repairing it sincerely-hope its okay, good amp, bad luck,

I am assuming the following: The Amp power is 1/0 gauge wire (huge) and runs directly to the fuse then to the battery + terminal, and you have a 1/0 gauge wire to an excellent ground. If you are missing any of these (esp the fuse) you are flirting with disaster. This Amplifier draws upwards of 100 Amps with a 1 ohm load! (If you are using this for competition you may also use a second battery to help dampen the noise, a high output alternator, and or a capacitor (which should be connected to the 4 gauge input terminals on your amp). I also assume that: When the engine isn't running the "humm" is not present, and when running if you remove the RCA connections from the AMP the noise should also go away. This amp has line level adaptability connecting speaker level inputs directly into the RCA terminals (you must set the "input sens" switch to "X10") ... so you may get rid of the PAC converter this may help get rid of the noise. For more info call MTX tech service at 800 CALL MTX. And please use ear protection at high levels ... trust me Tinnitus is no fun!

you may only be able to get but so much out of the subs. If you turn the bass down a little so the that you dont drive the subs so hard you may get a little more wattage out of them