20 Most Recent Samsung RF265AA Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

There should be two screws holding the ice maker to the top of the freezer compartment. If those fell out, it would explain your problem.

Sounds like the display is waiting for another command or the control board malfunctioned. Try to run a self diagnostic after unplugging it for 10 minutes, plugging it back in and use the procedure as outlined by Kelly, top-notch FixYa contributor at this link: Check out this solution to the GE Profile Stainless Bottom Freezer... If the display still flashes and will not respond, I suspect a new control board is needed.

Probable drain hose issue.Hose is plugged up and it cannot get to the evaporator.Remove lower vent assy and see where the water is coming from.

The evaporator pan in the bottom of you refrigerator may be out of place, damaged or missing. there also may be a problem with the drain tube being bent and not dripping into the pan. It is also possible that the drain tube could be clogged and water could be collecting in the bottom of the refrigerator and spilling out too.

Broken wires at the ice maker or the temperature sensor falling out can cause that problem. On my model RF265AABP, I check the digital temperature readout at the top of the refrigerator with the doors open. If it reads 88 88 and has a flashing digit, check the ice maker temperature sensor for a cut or broken wire. The temperature sensor and rubbery gadget holding it in place often fall out of place when the drooping wires snag on the ice scoop or whatever. The sensor assembly is held in place by a wimpy plastic clip that breaks easily. Sometimes the wires get cut or broken when this happens. After fixing this problem several times, I finally made a metal bracket from aluminum angle, drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in it, and drilled the plastic icemaker to mount it more permanently. I added a wire tie to hold the temperature sensor wire up and away from possible snag sources. The sensor wire and wire tie are not shown in the photo below, but if you have the tools to solder the wires and fabricate a bracket it helps a lot. It is easy to get the ice maker out, once you discover how to remove the drawer from the slides (two plastic clips at the rear of the slides). Pull the front cover off, take out the two screws, and unplug the wire connector and it drops right out. Ice maker assembly upside down on bench. Aluminum bracket and screws Bracket installed. The sensor is not shown in this photo, but the wire comes out the right side and crosses in front of the metal bracket. The wire tie holds it to the bracket near the top center (hole not shown).

The ice maker is easy to remove once you get the drawer off the slides. There are two plastic clips located near the back of the drawer that attach it to the slides. Pop those out and lift the drawer out. Pull off the plastic ice maker cover to expose the mounting screws. Remove the two screws holding the assembly to the top of the freezer, then slide the ice maker forward about 1/2 inch. It will drop down a few inches, allowing you to unplug the wiring connector and remove it as a unit. The ice full guide is then easily removed.

You need to provide more detail, may be the ice itself is causing the problem? If you have warranty, contact Service Center for free repair. Or did you pull it too much? or something is coming in its way when closing removing everything and then try again.