Questions & Answers
My range was giving off an F1 alarm when using
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
293 views | 2 helpful votes
I have Fridigaire double oven part# PLEB27T8ACA with F8 code prob
wow, that is so weird...i was just getting ready to write the exact same thing. this last time mine beeped, i just kept letting it beep for several minutes. if kept on. i then went in and pressed all the buttons except for cancel and nothing happened. then i pressed the oven light button. the beeping stopped. not sure if it's coincidence or if that was what i was supposed to press. i will keep messing with the buttons and let you know if i figure it out. i will dread if it beeps all night long.
763 views | 0 helpful votes
Cleaned then Dead
nextwave, looks like you have a safety thermostat (TCO) on the back of the oven. Should have a red and red/white stripe wire going to it. If this opens it will cut the power to the display, part number is 316003606. The hardest part of this gig is pulling the oven out to change the t-stat out. Catriver.
114 views | 0 helpful votes
What built in oven replaces a Frigidaire Model FEB24S2ASB
I know this isn't directly answering your question, however, what "burned up" about it?
You can get just about every part that fits that oven from Sears PartsDirect. Control boards, bake elements, convection fans, switches, replacement glass... just about everything.
Unless the oven literally burned through the side/top walls, you're most likely going to save money by fixing whatever's wrong with it.
Even the clock/timer control board is only $164 for the OEM part.
50 views | 1 helpful votes
Not finding what you are looking for?