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Nitro BMW-482 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 2 Questions & Answers
I have one 12inch 1000 watt mtx sub what size amp
Hello taona80,
If the 1,000 watts is RMS, I'd recommend an amp in the 750-1,000 watt RMS range, perhaps like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or Rockford-Fosgate T1000bd. If the 1,000 watts is peak power, the subs continuous (RMS) power handling is much lower, probably 300-400 watts. In that case, I'd recommend the Alpine MRP-M500 or Rockford-Fosgate T500-1bd.
Led light turns red and the turns off but the amp
In Car Amplifiers have 3 main power wires:
Live +12v (Fused wire direct from the + side of the cars battery)
Ground (Direct to car earthing point (anywhere cleaned of paint for good connection)(I tend to use boot lock)
Remote (This wire should be connected with the switched live wire coming from the back of the stereo, this is Only live when the cars ignition is on)(there should be 2 power wires coming from the stereo usually red live +12v and yellow switched live, depending on the cars original wiring, try moving the remote wire from where you have it, to the other live wire
Hope this is of some help
Aaron
Red
check you speakers and the wiring; to be sure disconnect speaker from amp and test them if they are working
Nito bmw 484
HI FREN UR AMPLIFIER DONT HAVE POWER TO PUSH BOTH OF UR .. DOUBLE VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER,, TRY USING SINGLE SUB AND TRY ... IF U HAVE SAME PROBLEM ... USE CAPACITOR ,,,
The amp wont come on
sorry to have to tell u this but you blew your amp or just the channels this happens when you dont have the ohm rite for amp and speakers
Red protection light
If the amp is going into protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.
My Amplifier keeps blowing fuses.
It probably has shorted output transistors.If it's like many of the Asian amplifiers, the outputs will be larger than the rest of the devices clamped to the
heatsink. If you measure the resistance between the legs of any individual output transistor and read anything near 0 ohms, the transistor or one in parallel with it is
likely shorted and will need to be replaced. You'd have to remove it from the board for definitive testing.
The donut is a power transformer. The coil with the black stick is an inductor.
The following page will help
acquaint you with the components inside the amplifier.
Amplifier Repair Primer
Amp in Protection Mode
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
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