20 Most Recent Cuisinart Coffeemakers - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I have the same problem with Cuisinart COD 4000. I called the Service Department and will receive a new coffee maker.

ask manualfox.com, they have it.

DCC-2000

March 16, 2009
I bought one of these last week. Boy, was I PO'd when it leaked cold water all over the countertop! I almost took it back to the store- then thought better of it and putzed around with it for a while until I stopped the leak and managed a pretty decent cup of coffee.

Here's what I did- TRY IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!

DO EVERYTHING EXACTLY AS DESCRIBED, COMPLETELY, AND IN THE ORDER GIVEN!

Once again, you're doing this at your own risk- I'm not connected with any coffeemaker manufacturer or seller- and I don't have any money- so suing me would be futile.....

The object of this exercise is to heat up whatever needs to be heated up in order to turn off Noah's Flood before it hits your counter top.

(1) Clean the coffeemaker thoroughly with cold water. Don't bother drying it.

(2) In a container, put in enough water to make the number of cups of coffee you want. Add a little extra- about 1/2 inch in the bottom of a coffee cup is enough. DON'T POUR IT INTO THE COFFEEMAKER YET.

(3) I used a paper filter- but I guess you can use the goldtone filter basket supplied with the
coffeemaker. DONT USE BOTH- use one or the other! Whichever you choose, put in enough ground coffee for the number of cups you want to wind up with.

NOW IT GETS TRICKY!
DON'T TURN ON ANY SWITCHES YET!
Be sure 1, 2, and 3 above are done completely. From here on, you are activating the heating element in your coffee maker, however briefly, with NO LIQUID IN THE MACHINE TO PREVENT THE HEATING ELEMENT FROM OVER-HEATING AND BURNING UP YOUR COFFEEMAKER. And, you gotta be ready because everything gets done QUICKLY after this.

(4) Take a deep breath. Turn the left-hand rotary switch to BREW. The heating element is now powered up. Immediately, pour the small amount of water in Step 2 above S-L-O-W-L-Y into the trough located along the side of the water reservoir ahead of the filter holder. I SAID S-L-O-W-L-Y ! ! !

(5) Select the 2-4 cup button if that's what you want.

(6) Now, pour the rest of the water you have measured S-L-O-W-L-Y into the same trough you used earlier in Step 2.

(7) Check beneath the dispensing lever to be sure there's no coffee leaking. If there is, press UP on the lever and try to turn it off.

(8) Eventually it will quit gurgling and belching. And, your countertop should be dry (If your machine has the same quirks mine did.....)

You really shouldn't have to do all this, not for a $100+ coffeemaker- But, once you get a load of coffee in it, and your counter top is dry, it's really such a convenient way of dispensing a really good cuppa coffee, I think I'll probably keep it and and put up with the hassle.

Maybe this'll jog the engineers into fixing the problem once and for all . . . . .

Use Safety. Unplug. If You want to Handy Try, Open Bottom by removing Screws. Find ac Power cord wires and in loop should be a METAL small Tiny Protection Temperature Thermal Device that is Probally open. Your Local appliance place can sell you this as You need to get right temperature. Can Plug in Replacement or Twist with wires for support. Switch could be Intermittent ( Open ) also and a Replacement should Snap into Place and Leads attached as original or a safe way. A Simple Meter ( Harbor Freight ) Digital Meter only $3 will work for testing.

Clean your coffee maker with vinegar or as the manual instructs no fewer than 3 times per year, at least 3 times back-to-back if you haven't been doing so regularly. The heating element may be overheating due to hard water deposits, triggering the end-of-cycle shut off.

The element is probably open, it sometimes happens after a few years of heavy use. All the light tells you is there is power to the element

I will assume you already checked the breaker so lets try this ... unplug the unit,dump all the water/coffee out . take screws out to gain access to the interior .. look at the 2 wire coming into the unit, you will see a small silver thing that is an over temperature safety on one of the wires. (sometimes it is attached to the unit itself ) but it is still inline with one incoming wire. Odds are that is what is keeping the power off.
If that is the problem then you could have a serious safety issue .. or perhaps just a bad thermal switch. It is almost impossible to know which one it is without the proper testing equipment

Make sure you are not using a paper filter and a gold tone filter at the same time.

Make sure the carafe lid is down all the way and that the center knob of the carafe lid is making contact with the spring at the bottom of the filter basket.

If the above conditions have been met, then decalcify your coffeemaker by running 1/3 carafe worth of vinegar and 2/3 carafe worth of water through your coffeemaker - use the self-clean button to do this - will take about 35 minutes.

i had the same problem, its the screen in the clear water container is plugged...i sprayed mine out and now i have no problems. it was plugged with coffee grounds.

ask for your money back. also check and make sure that your recptical is not broken behind your cover plate on the wall.

You should contact Cuisinart's Customer Service as they really stand behind their products and should be able to help you with getting a machine that works correctly.

I've been very impressed with how fast they work to resolve issues with faulty units and they are very prompt in getting back to you with an answer. Give them a call at 1-800-726-0190

Here's a link to their website for contact info, just select United States or International and give them a call or fill out the online web form. It's a good idea to have your model and serial
number available when you call.

Rather than go into what you could do, since your coffee maker is about 1 year old, I think you'll discover that it's still covered under their warranty.

Hope you find this info helpful and best regards!
http://www.cuisinart.com/support/contact.html

Just a comment; most of the coffee maker failures are caused by the premature failure of a thermal fuse that is intended to prevent fire in case the main heater doesn't turn off as it should. Unfortunately, most of these parts come from China and are very poorly made so the point at which they 'protect' is pretty unpredictable, many of them failing at a much lower temperature than necessary. The second most common failure is the thermal switch that cycles the main heater element; these are bimetallic switches that grow 'tired' and the point at which they open and close again gets wider apart until it can take an hour for a 12-cup pot to finish brewing.

Hello sandra_strat,
There are two possible issues, but easy to do. When decalcifying your unit the solution should be 2 parts water and 1 part vinegar. So if you have a 12 cup maker it would be 8 cups water and 4 cups vinegar. Complete the process with a pot or two of fresh water to rinse. Second, there may be a water filter stick that is removable. Open the lid and look for it in one of the corners, pull it out and remove the carbon filter there. (You can get a new on Amazon). Then replace the stick.
I hope this is a help for you. If it is please leave positive feedback for me. Thanks! NormanZ