20 Most Recent Jenn-Air SCE30600 Slide-In Electric Kitchen Range - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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Jennair oven: control lock

You should be able to depress and hold the #1 key till the control lock turns off. Pleazer Appliance... 469a3dc3-51c5-417d-a602-6b61cefd9266.jpg
4/20/2014 12:56:30 PM • Jenn-Air Kitchen... • Answered on Apr 20, 2014
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Replacing a heating element in jenn air oven

http://www.ehow.com/how_12068633_replace-bottom-element-jennair-oven.html
3/9/2014 4:37:39 PM • Jenn-Air Kitchen... • Answered on Mar 09, 2014
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Y2510A

Be the first to answer 1/14/2014 3:17:33 AM • Jenn-Air Kitchen... • Posted on Jan 14, 2014Be the first to answer
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SU130

Be the first to answer 1/3/2014 3:18:16 AM • Jenn-Air Kitchen... • Posted on Jan 03, 2014Be the first to answer
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Cannot find swiych pad part 71002871

Does anyone know where I can find a part 71002871 for a Jenn air oven ww30430p
12/26/2013 4:21:55 PM • Jenn-Air Kitchen... • Answered on Dec 26, 2013
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Jenn-Air Oven not warming following power outtage

If you were able to visually confirm a burn at one of the terminals on an element, you probably have one of two issues: First would be a faulty connection at the element. Even if you're confident your repair is good, it's not a bad idea to double check for continuity between the repaired wire (check from the control board side of the wire) to the opposite terminal of the element. Make sure you turn off the breaker first. You should get a reading of 9-50 ohms. The reason for the wide range is that the wattage of the element determines the ohm reading and there are many, many different wattages. Anything below this range (less than 5 ohms ore more than 75) would indicate a poor connection or a failed element. If the element looks good, chances are it's working normally. If you want to double check the element, just check the resistance, terminal to terminal. Should be, again, 9-50 ohms. If your wiring repair was successful (and I'm guessing it probably was), you probably have a faulty relay in the control board, or possibly a burn on the control board keeping L1 or L2 power from completing the circuit (elements use 240VAC) and you would need to replace the relay board or control board. Testing this board can be hazardous due to the conditions necessary to check for proper voltage from the board, so unless you're an electrician or have training in an electrical field, it's probably best to call an appliance repair company. Electricity doesn't always give you a second chance, so use your best judgement. Another factor pointing to a possible relay failure is the fact that you did find a burn at the element terminal. A burn indicates a poor connection which will spike the amperage through the entire circuit, burning the contacts in the relay in the process. I hope this is helpful. If you do, indeed have a failed relay and must replace the control/relay board, be careful not to spend more money on the repair than the appliance is worth. A good rule of thumb with appliances manufactured after the mid 2000s is you don't want to spend more than half of what the appliance costs new if it's 5 years old or older. This applies to almost all major appliances. Best of luck!
12/7/2013 8:13:28 PM • Jenn-Air Kitchen... • Answered on Dec 07, 2013
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