20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JGR8775QD Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

HI. Unfortunately, the touch/key pad is not repairable. Once the circuitry is damaged, the entire board must be replaced. Most units will have an Incorporated control board, that will have the touch/key pad integrated into the main board assembly. If this is the case, simply replace the entire oven control board. If the touch pad is separate from the main control board, replace the touch pad board.

NOTE_ This may be a simple control fault. In this case, simply unplug the unit, or shut down the appropriate circuit breaker for five minutes. This will reset the control. If the issue's persist, replace the failed component.

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There is a flint stone in all lighters which produce spark when rubbed against another stone. This spark lights up the gas. If the flint stone gets worn off or broken then naturally it will not be in a position to rub against the other one and thus not produce the required spark.
Whether you can DIY depends on the tools you have at home and the knowledge of the Gas Range. If either is lacking then calling a professional may be cheaper. It is a very delicate operation. Take the chance if can.

Hello. I may be able to assist you. There are several possible fixes to your problem. Hopefully one of these will work for you. The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.

Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitivestyle of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.

Sorry but thats not stainless just shinny metal for now.

http://www.applianceaid.com/fault_codes.html

Your thermocouple is probably failing, this should be addressed as soon as possible. Make sure the pilot flame is almost contacting the probe tip of the thermocouple. If it is not than it should be cleaned or adjusted. Thank you, Dana

This is your touch pad and clock assembly that has gone bad on this unit.

We are Jenn-Air factory authorized service and parts supply.

Please contact us at:
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We look forward to working with you.

Most of these have a switch behind each knob that triggers the spark.

OFTEN during cleaning, mositure gets into the switch causing the problem.

If you suspect this, try using a hair drier to dry out behind the knob if you can;t remove and investigate if this could be the cause.

If a self clean oven door lock fails to open after the self clean cycle and sufficient cooling time has elapsed (approximately 1 hour), there are several things you can try.

1. Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.

2. Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.

If these procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and moved manually to open the door.

*Note: Some model ovens require the oven door to be manually unlatched before the controls are returned to the OFF position or else the door may not be able to be unlocked. Check the owner's manual for proper operating procedures.

Warning! Do not attempt to reinitialized a selfclean mode if any sort of error code is displayed on an electronic control. Doing so could create a potentially hazardous condition.

Hi

If your range/oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these:


Fuse/circuit breaker Check to see if power is getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Main wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the range/oven, gets burned and so breaks the connection. Then you may have to replace the power cord to the range/oven, and the terminal block that the wire is attached to.

Range/oven wiring There may be a broken or burned wire at the back of the range/oven. If you repair any of the wires, use only proper appliance-grade wire and wire connectors.


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Thanks

Rylee

Absolutely do not use it until the problem is taken care of. You do indeed have an explosion hazzard.

95% chance all it needs is a thourouch cleaning of the ignition assembly.

When burner orifices and lighting tracks get contaminated and partially clogged with rust, dirt, and other sediment it starts to block the gas flow.

The gas starts to build up unburnt untill it eventually encounters the flame or ignitor, and then all the built up gas ignites at once.

It would eventuallty get worse.

Clean or replace the ignition assembly and burners.
A brass wire brush works wonders.

This is a tough one...but I'd try to see if you have good electrical connections.  Turn off the power at the breaker box...two breakers.  Next, check ALL connections from the box to the terminals inside the stove.  They should be bright, clean and tight.  If this isn't it...the timer unit may be bad.

If this is a gas stove, you've shorted out the ignitor circuit.  If it is electric...you may have gotten some of your cleaner into one of the controls.  See what doesn't work and trace from there.

the oven is suffocating the to burners with the heat coming from that draft you can put some oven insulation there to stop the problem.

You need the repair man; not a diy project. Please contact me if you need further help and leave feedback. Thanks for letting me help you!