20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You can get the manuals on link below.

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/8111P463-60.pdf

Install

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/8101P419-60.pdf

I will let you know that the wires hrom your house are as is.

White wire = Neutral

back wire = hot/power

green wire = ground

uninsulated wire is also a ground

Now you should also have another black or red wire in the box if you took out a electrick unit.

If you took out a gas unit than the wires you see are just for a 110 plug for the igniters.

You need to have 220 for this unit.


You might need to have another wire added so you can use the cooktop.

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023537.pdf
Please find above your service and repair manual, this is what the engineers use to troubleshoot and repair these units.

Wonder if this meets your requirements..hard to understand difference between 31" overall measurement and not cut-out.

http://www.jennair.com/assets/product/JED3430WS_Dimension%20Guide_EN.pdf

Though I am not sure if the down draft feature will fit your existing cabinet.

I think your installer has found

http://www.jennair.com/assets/product/CVEX4270B_Dimension%20Guide_EN.pdf
which is with metal element.

But you will need to be sure the cut-out size is consistent with the granite profile that you have.

The Jennair cooktops are also compatible to Maytag and Whirlpool cook tops - you may find a match.

Hi,

Here is the part number for the switch 74009254

You can use oven cleaner. Read the label and find the part about cool cleaning or over night cleaning. I have cleaned up pyrex casserole dishes that I sort of over baked. Wipes right out the next morning.

G.

It's just normal wear and tear, you can use any type of cookware.

The picture shows a drop in glass cook top (electric) You have to pull the top, disassemble it from the bottom and replace the switch. Most switches have five wires on them L1 L2 which are your hot 240v, h1 h2 which go to the burner(dual burner switch has h3 h4), and p is the pilot. Terminals are marked, just change one wire as you go or mark the wires as you change the part. Make sure your house breaker is off, no power to unit when working on it . Be careful of the glass top when working on it

I'm happy to say burnt milk can be removed with a combination of cerama bryte and let sit for one hour and then lots o elbow grease hard rubbling with also applying Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works very well but you have to still rub alot to get it safely scratch-free removed.

Sorry but no. If you have a burner not working it will be 1 of 2 things. 1st the switch that controls that burner is bad which would be the easiest and less expensive to replace. The other is the element. Good luck but I really do feel it will be the switch.

Yes, you have a bad burner, sensor, burner switch, or wiring problem. The most likely is the burner switch. You should get this repaired asap, as this could be shorting out inside, and cause an electrical shock hazard. Unlikely but enough of a possibility that you should fix it soon.

that happens when the controll knob rheostat becomes weak and break down internally you just need to replace the controll switch

Likely a short in the junction box. Turn off the breaker and open the junction box for inspection. Problem is likely at the cooktop end of the feed from the breaker.

Check voltage at the junction. Should one side of the corcuit be dead, turn off power and call an electrician as the wiring probably has had a short due to staple or nail penetration and would be a fir hazard. Call an electrician if this is the case.

VERIFY that ALL voltages are present. The power CAN appear to be getting there, but one side of the 240 volt line could be open and indicators SEEM to work but nothing will operate.

as an expert i suggest you give your cook to to Mark Simpson. problem solved.

I think that one or more of your infinite switches have shorted and need to be replaced.

For an exploded view of the unit check out
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=681565#d681565

For details on how to replace the switches, check out my other posts

I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the problem (you can get replacement parts at Searspartsdirect.com - search using the cooktop model number).
You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up.
To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also in the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)

Turn off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. Verify by making sure the burners/fan do not come on. Disconnect the exhaust fan (underneath the cooktop) from the ductwork by removing the tape that joins it. While you are underneath the cooktop, open the junction box. Label the four wires that are joined so that you will be able to connect them later. Then disconnect the four wires. Remove the metal sheating that connects to the junction box (there is a nut on the inside of the junction box that you loosen. Pull out all the supply wires (from the mains) from the junction box. Then push the cooktop up and out and lay it flat on a table with the flat side down.
Take off only the top row of screws all around the unit. Rotate the unit so that you can get to the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is). Remove the two center screws. Then pull the black top off.

For an exploded view of the unit check out
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=681565#d681565

I uploaded the owners manual.
Repair information is here
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47639&diagram_id=653174#d653174

I had the same problem. Mine was caused by liquid seeping into the infinite switch (the switch that gets rotated by the knob to set burner temperature). This caused one of the live wires to short to ground within the switch. Bad Design IMHO. Replacing the switch fixed the problem (you can get replacement parts at Searspartsdirect.com - search using the cooktop model number).
You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up.
To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also in the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)

You first need to remove the unit from its installation. Start by disconnecting the exhaust fan from the ductwork. Then push the cooktop up.

To get at the switch you need to remove the top by taking off only the top row of screws all around the unit and also at the top of the down draft cavity (the down draft cavity is where the grease guard mesh is)

Hello Chuck,

Your request is for the Jenn-Air CVG-4280P gas cooktop installation instructions, even though the info at the top of the page states a JED8430 electric cooktop,

If I've got your request correct, here's a link to the installation instructions for the CVG-4280P cooktop.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/CVG4380PII.pdf

If you'd also like the owner's manual for that same cooktop, here's the link for that too:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/CVG4380P.pdf

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Merry Christmas!