Top 20 Jenn-Air JGC8536 Gas Cooktop - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I've had this happen before,first make sure that the black burner cap is clean underneath and it's making good contact with the aluminium burner,also make sure the igniter is sparking across to the burner, check the ceramic coating around the igniter isn't cracked or the wires shorting out . Good luck.

best to measure the the hole size and then go and see a glazier for him to cut you a new heat treated piece.

I have a Radio Shack 3-in-one remote control 15-302 and I need codes for Dinex TV..it says it is 4 numbers

Have you tried turning it upside down and removing any covers.

Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

Generally the issue with this is not that you don't have the correct pressure but the Burner top hat that displaces the gas is dirty.Remove the metal rack to expose the burner itself. Make sure it's not been used recently to prevent a burn. Carefully lift the little burner cap off. This is the piece with all the holes in it the flames come from. They generally just sit on top. You will need a flashlight, know look in the little slits below the cap for cleaning material buildup. A tooth pick or a stiff bristle tooth brush can be used to clean these little slits.The cleaning products used to clean stove tops tends to leave little trace amounts of surfactants that over time block these little slits and prevent the escaping gas to flow towards the ignitor preventing the burner from lighting.Once you have this clean replace the top. Put the pan grate back on and try to relight the stove.I am sure this should fix you issue. If it doesn't please let me know and I can give you some other tips to try.DR Wilkins

Hi,I am assuming your cooktop is electric and your have a glass top, if so the burners sensor is bad and you might need to replace the burner. Again before buying anything and for me to help you, I would need a full model number. Some model have plate sensors and with no plate/pot burner cycles. Most of the time I find the sensor in the burner cant detect the heat and this ends up being a safety issue to protect the unit. All this information is based on the premise you have an electric cooktop and a glass surface.I hope this helps. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Element may be bad, check to see if you are getting power to the Element first.

Hi,With the information you gave me I researched this particle number you supplied. (8 possible different model) Th side that is not working has a wiring issue with the controls (knob have switches under the surface) there is a possible short within the harness to that side of the burners. I assume you have used this cartridge on the other side to rule out the cartridge. If this information is true, you will need either a good handy person or a service tech to assist you in this repair. There really is no simple fix without locating the power loss within the unit. (Could be a loss wire, to a burnt harness or even bad switches) Either way someone needs to look inside to locate issue.If you can, unplug the unit access the burner valves and send me pictures, I would be glad to assist you if I could see issues within the pictures.Get back if you wish for more assistanceWhirlpool Certified Technicon I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

if you mean the switch under the knob,you can open up, drill, the switch and clean up and use it again, uless the copper parts are burned out.to get to the switch, most likely have to unscrew all the screws holding the top and the bottom together, most likely the screws will be on the top, by the gas burner on each burner. and may need to check the sides for additional screws .if you go step by step , its pretty easy.maybe you should look up on you tube for demo.

Hello Ken,What color are the wires i suspect they are red,black white,green or bare copper??connect all the reds to the reds from the house wiring same for the black and white and connect the either green or bare to the green or bare wires

as always turn off the power , I have tryed several types of cleaners over the years but fantastic works th best

Hi

You can buy its parts from this link. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Since I don't know your model number, I will have to give you deneric advise. Some fans have a thermostat that will activate the fan when certain temperatures are met. If yours is like that, then the thermostat could be the cause.

The Sparkers may need to be cleaned or replaced.

Hi

The issue is either the elements itself gone bad and should be replaced or there is a loose/broken wire causing this issue. If both of them are fine then check this diagram....part no 5 is the ballast that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

F1 indicates a clock or touch pad problem. F8 indicates a clock, or ERC (Electronic Range Control) problem. Are you receiving both codes? If so it seems likely that your touch pad and ERC are contained together in one module, and must be replaced. If you find however that they are separate modules it is possible to determine which is faulty by simply disconnecting power to the unit, disconnecting the touch pad from the ERC, and then powering it back up. Wait for a half hour or so to see if the unit sets the error code again with the touch pad disconnected. If it does the ERC is faulty, otherwise it is the touch pad.

Please note that if you do not have experience mucking about in your appliances inner workings it is best that this be done by an experienced technician.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Part PHS120A-3377 has been replaced by part# 74009254 which you can buy from either this link or from sears. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote to give details about why your cooktop will notspark to light the burners..

Cooktop Range Stove spark ignition does not work

heatman101

hELLO THERE
This part
looks like this picture below right if so it has to be ordered thru the manufacture
Fan Switch

Item # 1953
Down draft fan switch, gray

This part may have been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source for the part except the manufacture or there supplier
Skill Level

N