Rangemaster 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check for a controller board. Probably that or a temp sensor.

Could be a broken resistance. Good luck.

I’d be looking at wiring both in Stove and house. If that’s not comfortable to you, call repair tech or electrician

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Check your circuit breakers for a kitchen circuit that is off. Most range hoods are wired to a different circuit than the cooktop/range. Next check if any nearby GFCI (ground fault) or AFCI (arc fault) outlets aren't working. If the outlets have test/reset buttons, try to reset them. Warning: if these repeatedly trip, there may be a leak getting to your wiring (GFCI) or an insulation problem or loose wire that is causing a potential fire risk. Alternatively the outlets could be damaged and need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells (My range hood is wired to a lighting circuit. Thus it's not on a GFCI circuit. However, your wiring could be different.)

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Most likely you need to remove burner caps and clean out holes. While it is off turn it on for a sec and see if you small gas. CAREFUL just a sec. A good cleaning is best before you call your gas company. Our's PG&E do'es it for free check with yours before you call a repairman. Hope this helps Mike

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due to safety issues - and possibly injury from a hot burner when you think it is turned off - talk to a local repairman in your area.

First, I'm not a Rangemaster Tech. * call vendor for service. Gas leaks are hazardous and require a qualified tech to service. *** The following is for information only.*** * I've always had problems servicing gas stove, heaters, boilers, etc. Lots of unique components that require special tools to service. * I was surprised to find out that it's better to call on your local Gas Supplier for service. The not only check the supply line but also have a very good working experience with all types of gas fired equipment. * Slow pilot lighting or burner fire usually means a clogged gas vent or valve. If other burners are working fine, then it's just that particular burner. * If all burners have the same symptom then it could be a number of things. * Check gas mains for pressure and flow (you need a gas meter for this but if you have another stove on the same line then it's probable that the mains are okay. Unless the connector or shutoff valve is not working properly (partial open). * Check gas hose to stove for kinks. Replace if bent (re bending will crack a metal hose.) * Check the gas regulator (again, need a gas meter) * Check the feed and branches for gas. If pilot lights are not on then there is a good indication that your not getting gas to that section. (or the pilot is clogged) Clean, clear, or replace pipes/parts. * Check valve on each burner. This is the most used item on the stove. Expect it to wear out. Replace as needed. * Final, Be safe; Call your Gas company or MFR tech for service. Aloha, ukeboy57

Hi Anita, I am not shure, but do this cooker have already flame faillure device? In that case I thnk this is the problem. If not, it is a clogged nozzle. You can remove that nozzle, that is under the burnercap, with a 7 mm wrench. Then clean it so you can see trough it and put it back. They look like the ones in the link. RANGEMASTER Oven Cooker Natural Gas to LPG Conversion Nozzle Kit A027639... Have a nice weekend, Dik

Hi Cindy, Next link gives you where you can buy a new one and the last picture shows you the back side. There are 2 pins that go through the plate and then it has 2 special clamps. You can remove these carefully with a little screwdriver and a pair of pliers. Be carefully not to distroy these clamps. Rangemaster 5925 110 Electric White Brass Name Badge Have a good weekend, Dik

Hello Lisa, I love these cookers, they are beautiful. FIRST OF ALL, REMOVE THE PLUG Then pull the cooker out of its place and unscrew the backplate on the side where you think the problem is. When it really is the ventilator, you will find then some very dark colored wires. The reason for this is most often a bad contact. When the wire is not burned to much, remove the burned connection, clean it and put it back again. In case of a really bad burne wire, do not replace the wire, but use shrink hose Just be sure that the connection is ok again. Replacing Burned Wire Connection in Oven Mom in Music City The second link is of a VW Samba, but illustrates what can happen. Then you can immagine that nothing will work anymore TheSamba com Gallery burned wire

Hi Gerald, for old Rangemasters it is difficult to find the original parts, as they have their outside model. But when you open the switch carefully, you will find 2 switches on a board, one for the light and one for the fan. These parts are common for a lot of cooker hoods. The switches look like the one of link 1 Genuine Creda CRV10W Light Bulb Switch Cooker Hood eBay the second link gives you a complete unit, so the light switch and the vent switch on a board https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/08086215-hygena-cooker-extractor-hood-switch-pcb I hope you will find the right part. Kind regards, Dik

Hi Don, no there is no extra fuse in it, at least I have never found one. I refurbish cookers and sometimes I find that the wires are somewhat burned. So the heater the ovens come, the more chance there is for a shortcut. That trips the circuitbraker. It is often because of a bad connection. When this goes on, there may become a burnt wire. In that case there will be no electricity to that part of the cooker. Did you smell a burning smell in the past when you put the oven on? On the link I give you, you will find something that may be helpful. Have a nice weekend, Dik Replacing Burned Wire Connection in Oven Mom in Music City

Hello Bob, this is not on a Rangemaster, but the principle is the same. I think, if you have done the other one too, you will have enough information to do this one too. Range Oven Thermostat part WB20K8 How To Replace Have a nice weekend, Dik

• Hello David, when the clock does not work, the (left hand) oven will not work too I suppose. Often when the clock does not work, it is only the timer that does not work. In that case, the timer can be bypassed. The oven still works then, but without the timer and the clock will also work as a clock. So no timer. When it is an older rangemaster, and the ignition does not work, then probably are some wires leaking. I that case the power for the spark does not come to the burner sparkplug. But when all plugs do not spark then there are 2 possibilities I think. 1 the ignitor is gone 2 the ignitor does not get power I hope this helps, I wish you a good weekend, Dik

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Hello Stephany, this cooker has an ignition system by pressing the knob of the item that you want to ignite. As all sparkplugs work and only the oven is the source of the problem, i think that the contact behind the knob of the oven sticks It looks like this one and is behind the facia, between the knob and the valve. I hope this helps, Dik

Hello Patricia, when the oven lights on, but only smal, then I suspect the flame failure device.has troubles. As you say that you spilt gravy on the gas jets then I also think there is gravy on the electrical part of the FFD. That is in this picture on the left side. When there is a problem, the FFD will not open the valve in full I hope this helps you, kind regards, Dik

Hello Anon61, Wow, that is a lot of problems with one cooker. First of all, there must be an inspection of an engineer. I am afraid he will tell you to buy a new one, as repair with so many troubles will cost a lot of money. Timers are often the source of problems. When that occurs, the oven that is controled by the timer will not work. For the Rangemaster Exel 110, the left hand oven is served by the timer, so this oven should not work too. In this case, I would test the element in the right hand oven, as I think, it is gone. When this cooker has an ignitor that works by pressing the knob, then all knobs work like it is one knob. That means, if no sparkplug ignites, then there is a problem with the ignitor or with the wireing. When there is at least one plug that ignites, then the problem is in the contacts of the other knobs. The light of the oven is a neon light, that only needs a very small amount of current. I think, that this light is on because of other electric problems. As soon as those problems are solved, the oven lamp will work again as it should. I wish you a wonderfull weekend and a lot of succes, Dik