Rangemaster 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If grill element not working, switch power off and remove back panel to gain access to wiring. Grill element will be toy element. look for any burnt wire, either blue or brown. Re attach where broken and reassemble. If you have any doubts call a technician. Not to difficult though.

The first thing you will need to do is try lighting the burner manually with a match or bbq lighter. Bring the flame next to the burner then turn on the griddle knob. It should light up. If it does then it is either a weak spark on the ignition system due to debris on the electrode or there is blockage in the burner eyes at the electrode. Try poking out the eyes of the burner with a safety pin or sewing needle. And try using a wire brush to lightly clean the electrode head(where the spark comes from). If your tried lighting the burner with a match or bbq lighter and it did not light or a very small flame came out then there is a restriction in either the burner eyes, venturri, or burner orfice. Frist inspect the burner eyes for any blockage(grease or particles of food) and then use the sewing needle or safety pin to clean out all the burner eyes. If the burner is easily removed then go ahead and remove it and check the venturri(burner pipe) for any debris inside it. A small bottle brush can be used to clear the venturri. And finally with the burner removed you should be able to see the burner orfice. It will look like a small nut(usually brass) with a very small hole in it. This is where the gas comes out and if this hole becomes plugged then the burner will not work. The best way to clear this hole is to use a very small wire like the wire on a sandwich bag tie strap. Burn the plastic off of the tie strap to expose the thin metal wire and then use the wire to clear out the hole. DO NOT USE ANYTHING LARGE to try and clear out this hole. It is tiny for a reason and the soft brass can be opened up easily while try to clear the orfice hole causing a huge increase in gas pressure. If you clear the orfice hole and still do not get any gas pressure then the next step would be to remove the orfice(this requires a orfice wrench) and verify that you get gas coming from the burner tube with the orfice removed. If you do not get any gas after removing the orfice the more than likely the problem lies with the burner valve restricted internally and will need to be re-built or replaced.

http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/Pdf/ProfessionalPlus110DFOct08.pdf
User manual.
When the clock is first connected, the display flashes ( 0.00) and (?) alternately. To set the time, turn and hold the Timer knob to the clock symbol (?) and at the same time turn the Adjusting knob left or right until the clock shows the time of day. Remember this is a 24-hour clock. Let go of the Timer knob and it will spring back to the vertical, oven manual setting.
It is on page 6 of manual

at the back of the timer/clock there are 4 wires live and neutral to power the timer/clock and 2 others they may be red or orange. safely connect these other 2 together and you are good to go. if you need a new clock email me [email protected]

in the uk where these come from you will need a gas safe engineer to connect it by law. so they dont come with a connection hose. call your local plumber who will be able to get you one

It should be on a plate on the right hand side of the range at the bottom under the pan drawer.

this is a common problem and sounds like a faulty gas oven thermostat. It will need replacing.

Hope this helps with your dual fuel version 3 weeks on and working perfectly! Rangemaster 110. Ovens not lighting due to faulty auto/clock. FIXED! Our clock /timer kept flashing and would not reset
Someone, somewhere on the internet had the solution to my problem but I can't find the link again to thank them! If you don't mind losing the clock/timer auto function this is for you and it's free! Just takes a bit of time.
Basically you need to lift/open up the LH &RH hobs to get at the wires behind the clock. You should see 2 blue(neutral) wires coming directly from the back of the clock. Pull them out and connect together - should be easy to click them together. Then the ovens will light - but you will lose the auto/clock/timer functions. We only used the timer so not a big issue. We didn't take the control panel off but we did take ages to unscrew the hobs etc Probably took us about 2 hours going back to instruction manual we found on internet and trying to work it out but I think we've saved a lot in not replacing the unit with the usual call out charges. We made sure electrical supply was switched off and just took our time. Really chuffed!
Comment by tinling, posted on Nov 06, 2008 http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/RM110Gas_04_06.pdf

This should allow you to see the instruction manual for the 110. There was another one somewhere showing a diagram of how to link the 2 blue wires at the back of the clock but I can't find it again! By the way our cooker is 10 years old so maybe different from newer models. We didn't have to take of the front control panel we accessed everything by lifting up the hobs to get behind the clock/timer.

Hope this helps! Ovens still working just got to go and buy a wee timer.

your burners are not burning good because they need to be cleaned and the loud popping noise is the gas burning in the ventury until it burns it self out its a very common thing If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_075aa344198c3329

stoves have a pressure regulator as the flex line from the house connects to the stove, it's about 2 inches by 3 inches in dimension and it has a knot in the middle and one to the side of it that is to the front of it that second one you can unscrew and put that knot the other way or upside down, that's the position for natural gas, now some regulators do not have it, in that case get one that can do that,or that is for lp and natural gas. then you must close the air a little bit on all the burners the vent is located as the burner meets the valve that supplies gas to the burners. and that vent is part of the burner.

yes, just like that,but make sure there is no electricity, unplug the stove.

yes you can take the set of knobs and handles to a chrome shop near you, you can find them in the yellow pages. or by calling the better business bural in your city.

to find out if the regulator is good or bad, turn any of the burners that do not have the problem, one at a time but take a close look at the flame and see if the flame goes lower and lower as you turn a second burner and a third and the fourth one, if the flame goes lower and lower the regulator is bad. but if the problem is with just the grill one , it has to much air, you can turned down the air where the burner meets the valve that supplies gas to it the burner has a vent, it needs to be close a little bit, you can close it little by little and testing the burner on the on position until the splutter goes away.

it is not at all obvious.
from memory, there are 2 screws on the lhs side of the plate which remove and the plate will then move sideways but may be difficult to shift

it is an expensive job so it is worthwhile contacting your household insurer to see if it is covered

Rangemaster 110. Ovens not lighting due to faulty auto/clock. FIXED!
Someone, somewhere on the internet had the solution to my problem but I can't find the link again to thank them! If you don't mind losing the clock/timer auto function this is for you and it's free! Just takes a bit of time.
Basically you need to lift/open up the LH &RH hobs to get at the wires behind the clock. You should see 2 blue(neutral) wires coming directly from the back of the clock. Pull them out and connect together - should be easy to click them together. Then the ovens will light - but you will lose the auto/clock/timer functions. We only used the timer so not a big issue. We didn't take the control panel off but we did take ages to unscrew the hobs etc Probably took us about 2 hours going back to instruction manual we found on internet and trying to work it out but I think we've saved a lot in not replacing the unit with the usual call out charges. We made sure electrical supply was switched off and just took our time. Really chuffed!
Comment by tinling, posted on Nov 06, 2008 http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/RM110Gas_04_06.pdf

This should allow you to see the instruction manual for the 110. There was another one somewhere showing a diagram of how to link the 2 blue wires at the back of the clock but I can't find it again! By the way our cooker is 10 years old so maybe different from newer models. We didn't have to take of the front control panel we accessed everything by lifting up the hobs to get behind the clock/timer.

Hope this helps! Ovens still working just got to go and buy a wee timer.

Yes this is easy to do.We can supply bits if required.

Have you set clock time?

I presume it is gas powered? They are available in all sorts of dual fuel variations. When you operate one element all the igniters spark. It sound like the igniter switch for the oven need adjusting. They normally operate on a cam so when you turn the control knob, the cam lobe runs up onto the micro-switch and then off it again creating a ignition spark on the way. It is a gas appliance, so call for service. Various other suggestions here https://www.google.com/search?q=Rangemaster+Professional%2B+oven+igniter+keeps+clicking ..

Remove the flame spreaders and rings from the 3 rings you use the most, including the faulty one. Put them in a large pan cold water, add a teaspoon of dish liquid and slowly bring to a simmer. As soon as it want to boil over, blow on it and turn the heat off. Leave it to cool. Scrub with a plastic pot brush making particular attention to the holes. You had a blocked one which is the one that directs the gas to the spark igniter. Rinse and dry them, and replace to the hobs.