A note about your problem: If your freezer is sealing itself properly you should not have a frost problem. Most models self-defrost the small amount that builds up when you open it. I would check for door-drawer gasket leaks... I recently posted a fix for this and will repeat it here for you.We recently purchased a new Kenmore French Door (side by side upper doors and bottom drawer freezer) and have had nothing but problems keeping frost-ice and dripping water (condensation on the ice maker) under control in both the top as well as the freezer section. Also, If I put a bright flashlight inside the fridge, closed the doors in a dark room, I could actually see light escaping from the doors and the freezer in several places. (use a mirror in difficult places.) Warranty service on the unit has not helped with the technician using a heat gun to reform the gaskets in several places. They also replaced the metal slide rails in the freezer which helped a bit but did not solve the whole problem. I was also told that new gaskets come folded so much that we would be worse off than the ones currently in our fridge. I searched the web for a solution and some even suggested adding (YUCK) petroleum jelly to the gasket. I would only try that as a last resort. My successful fix was to add HEAVY DUTY magnetic tape to the metal fridge surface where the door seal tries to seat. This is not your typical box-store tape so don't think they are all created equal. Part of the reason why this works is that most door gaskets have a magnetic strip inside them. My problem solution works well because the gasket and the tape strips attract each other and the magnetic tape also adds a bit more thickness to the fridge side of the equation. Source for the magnetic tape: Amazon... just search for... Master Magnetics - B005HYDC68 Roll-N-Cut Flexible Magnetic Tape Refill - 1/16" Thick x 1/2" Wide x 15 feet. (1 roll), 07518. With the tape installed, our frost-ice buildups and water drips (around the upper ice maker section) as well as all the light leaks have been eliminated. best of luck.10-2-22 update:Our model 11175039120 bottom freezer unit has two defrost drains under the evaporator coil (remove back cover in freezer compartment). The right drain is TOTALLY BLOCKED with insulation foam and a plastic panel of some sort put in by Kenmore. This causes a constant lake of water/ice to form under the evaporator coil with ice filling the evap. fins putting excess water on both circulation fans during defrost cycle causing them to vibrate and\or freeze up and STOP during the next freeze cycle. This fan motor freeze-up gets worse as the fan motors age and let more high-humidity air inside them to freeze. 4681JB1027C Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motors are available on Amazon and fit (you will need to solder original electrical connectors) perfectly. Kenmore fan motors (if you can get them) are about 150.00 each. Amazon fans are less then 30.00 each.Still trying to figure out how to clear out the right defrost drain. Great going Kenmore! A design or assembly flaw that does wonders for your reputation.
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
his error code indicates that either the evaporator fan motor is not running or the main board is not seeing the signal, that the motor should be sending to it. By this I mean, the motor sends a low voltage signal to the board, when it's running, so the board knows it's running. If it does not see this signal, even if the motor is running, it will flash this error code. If the motor is running, it means that either the board is not accepting the signal or the motor is not sending the signal. In some cases both the motor # 4681JB1027C and board # EBR34917104 need to be replaced. If the motor is not running, it can again be either the board, not sending power to the motor or the motor has failed.
Coldspot 106. Model
This model refrigerator is a relatively small refrigerator. It is a Freezer on top model, and Sears documents lists this unit at 18.1 cu ft. I hope that answers your question about capacity.
I'm glad I could help. If you need anything else, just let me know.
In reality, when you buy a replacement, you buy by dimensions to fit the space not cubic feet of the old one. Go to Home Depot armed with a tape measure.
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Turn it off by removing the wall plug for 10 minutes. This will do a power rest to the control electronics. This is a bottom mounted freezer, so cold air for the fridge is vented upwards by a fan. Make sure it is running and there are no ice blockages. Strangely they call the fan in the fridge an
Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor. The part is obsolete anyway.
If it normally says 4 for the fridge, that would be 4 degrees Centigrade, which means the freezer should show minus 18'C. Or 36'F Fridge / 0' F Freezer/
This shows all the parts.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3tradtge4f-000582/kenmore-79575004401-bottom-mount-refrigerator-parts
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