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Whirlpool LGB6300 Gas Dryer - Page 5 Questions & Answers
How do I get to the gas coils?
Remove top back of dryer that houses all the switches, remove screws in lint catcher area on top of dryer. Remove screws that are attached to clamps at back of dryer that hold top on. Top should now slid forward for you to remove. At the top of front cover on the backside of it, you need to remove screws that hold on the front cover. Then slide it up for removal. Hold drum or it will fall off. Gas coils are at bottom of dryer.
6/10/2010 1:06:00 PM •
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203 views • 1 helpful votes
It's completely dead. won't turn on when push
If the model number you listed this question under is correct, there is a Thermal Fuse in the back of the dryer that, if blown, will prevent the dryer from running. To access, follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG dryer and SHUT OFF gas supply.
2. Locate and remove the rear panel screws on the back of the dryer.
3. With the rear panel removed, the Thermal fuse will be located on the blower fan housing on the left-hand side of the dryer (as viewed from the rear). It is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached.
4. Disconnect the wires to iosolate the fuse and measure across the leads with a multi-meter. The fuse should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If it reads an open (infinite), the fuse is bad.
NOTE: If you do not have a multi-meter another simple way to prove the fuse bad is to make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED and disconnect the two wires from the fuse and jumper them together. Plug the dryer back in and, if it runs normally with the fuse by-passed, the fuse is bad. CAUTION: DO NOT leave the dryer by-passed in this manner, Use only as a TEMPORARY means to troubleshoot your problem.
If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. Most commonly, this is caused by a dryer that is overheating. I would recommend that you fully inspect your dryer ventilation ducting inside the cabinet and from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits you home. Make sure there are no kinks, clogs or choke points that will keep the dryer from ventilating correctly. A dryer in a clogged state will not heat efficiently and will eventually overheat to the point of failure. This will result in repeated failures of any components you may replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list have helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you with locating and properly identifing any parts you may need. The Thermal Fuse part number is 3392519 and is listed as item 7 under the "Bulkhead" parts listing.
If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
7/14/2010 1:17:30 PM •
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79 views • 0 helpful votes
Dryer stop heating
Try vacuuming out the intake and exhaust vents for the burner. Lint collected there can block the burner operation. Hope this helps!
6/28/2010 1:27:38 AM •
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106 views • 0 helpful votes
My dryer quit heating up.
HI. This dryer burner assembly should be inspected for faults. I would also advise to check the gas line for punctures or worn coupling sections. Use my procedure below to test and inspect the burner assembly.
Burner assembly inspection procedure:
On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.
The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.
If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.
You should test the internal thermostats as well. The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap, on the heater chamber or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
let me know the results of each test, if possible..
Standing by...
8/16/2010 1:29:18 PM •
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28 views • 0 helpful votes
Won't heat
No need to jump the fuse just check it for coninuity if none replace it. It could be several other things thermal fuse, thermal cut out, hi limit thermostat, dryer coils, heat sensor,or igniter. All of these parts are inexpensive and easy to test and replace.There is a video at t http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html his will walk you thru the troubleshooting of these components. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. If you need help disassembling your machine there are videos of this also for most styles.
6/1/2010 5:58:47 PM •
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105 views • 0 helpful votes
Burner shuts off after about 5 minutes
sounds like one of the safety sensors is doing it's job correctly.
I would open the front panel of your machine and remove all lint buildup inside the machine by using a vacuum. Be sure to unplug your machine prior to doing so.
Also, this could be caused by the vent duct being restricited or plugged up. Take the 4" diameter duct loose from the back of the machine and make sure it's not blocked.
Then retest your machine.
5/26/2010 3:19:35 AM •
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78 views • 0 helpful votes
How do I get to the burner?
THE BURNER IS INSIDE THE DRYER WHICH THE TOP NEEDS TO BE RAISED UP FROUNT REMOVED IF YOU HAVE VENT ON TOP FOR LENT SCREEN 99 % CHANCE ITS THE THERMAL FUSE WHICH IS INN THE BACK DRYER BEHIND THE PANEL WITH 8 SCREWS IT COMES OFF UNPLUG DRYER THERE A LITTLE WHITE FUSE EATHER OVERL ARE OBLONG CK IT CONTANUITY REPLACE IT SOUL FIX PROBLEM
5/30/2010 8:27:36 PM •
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66 views • 0 helpful votes
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