20 Most Recent Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi,
Things to check first on a no start dryer.
Check for power at outlet.
Inspect power cord.
When you try to turn it on do you hear anything?
Check the door switch(does it click when pressed in?)
The next item to check and most likely replace on a completely dead dryer with power and a good door switch would be the thermal fuse located inside the cabinet.
Please let me know if I can help with anything else

Hi,
The most common problem with gas dryers is the ignitor going bad....

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

heatman101

the heat sensor or the spark ignitor is at fault

There are other things to check also... See this picture.
http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/7152136.jpg

The burner is located in the bottom of the unit to the front but inserted inside the intake for the blower duct. The parts list is here. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=504275&diagram_id=130018#d130018

You can also find them here under this model number GGQ8831LL0 http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-GGQ8831LL0-%3d%3d Hope this was helpful.

check to make sure you didn't blow the house fuse, if that's good unplug dryer,remove bottom panel,take out the lint filter,then remove the duct that the lint filter sldes into and you'll see the blower wheel,to the right and on top of the blower wheel housing you'll see the thermal fuse,could be a 3392519 or a 3390719,check that with a meter,while you're there clean out the duct and vac out the inside of dryer,if you have a shop vac,put it on blow and blow off the motor and blow all the lint from the back to the front so you don't have to pull the drum,then check the vent line and make sure the air is blowing open the flapper fully outside,if it's a long run blow the line out from the wall with a leaf blower to clean out all the lint that is built up in it,if the fuse is good you'll have to see if you're getting power down to the motor,could have a bad timer or a burnt wire somewhere,hope this helps,also you should clean out the dryer at least once a year so you don't have any fires

when did you last clean out the dryer?another thing is that the gas coils could be failing,they work for a while but when the heat up they cut out leaving clothes damp or partially dry.there should be a little peep hole on front of dryer to see flame inside,pop off the cover after 10 or 15 minutes and make sure the flame is still coming on,if there isn't a cover you'll have to remove the bottom panel to check this,if the coils are good clean out the dryer by vacuuming the inside of it,remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and clean that out,then go outside and make sure the air is blowing out strong enough to open the flapper all the way,if it isn't the block is inside the vent line,remove the line from the back of dryer and clean it,if it's along run from the wall to the outside blow it out with a leaf blower and that should take care of your problem,you should do this a t least once a year so you don't have a fire on your hands,so clean out the dryer and make sure you don't have bad gas coils

You need to check the venting. Take the vent hose off the back of the dryer and try drying a load with it off and see if it will fully dry. If so, clean the vent hose.

open the door and look around door jam and you'll see a tag with a model number and serial number,your gas coil parts are 694539 and 694540

The gas valve coils are bad. When they heat up they are losing resistance to stay on.
Turn off the gas. Unplug the machine. Remove the front panel. The gas valve will be in the front right hand corner. Remove the gas valves and replace them with new valves. Please note how the coils orient on the gas valve.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication.

If you have a front loading machine,

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots or wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

For the model number you have listed, you can replace the heating element by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is shut off.

2. Remove the lower toe panel under the dryer door. The panel comes off by inserting a putty knife along the top seam of the panel about 2 inches in from each side. There is a retaining clip on each side that you must depress in order for the panel to pop open. Open the panel and remove.

3. Open the dryer door and remove the lint filter. NOTE: You cannot remove the blower fan duct assembly with the lint screen in place (next step).

4. Locate the screws that hold the blower fan duct assembly in place and remove. Remove the ground wire and auto dry sensor wire as well (if attached to the duct assembly).

5. With the blower fan duct assembly removed, the heating element should be easily accessible on the right hand side.

6. Locate the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) located on the left-hand side of the heater box (these are the two small components on the outside of the heater box with wires attached to them on the left hand side. Disconnect the wires. NOTE: Make sure you label where they go.

7. The entire heater box with all components attached will come out by removing a single screw on the front bracket. Remove the screw and the entire heater box will pull free of the exhaust duct in the rear.

8. With the heater box removed, the heating element will pull out from the front by removing the mounting screws along the side of the heater box.

You can view and exploded view diagram of what I am describing by going to pcappliancerepair.com. The heating components are listed under Section 3.

The list of components are as follows:

Heating Element - Item 14
Blower Fan Duct Assembly - Item 45
Heater Box - Item 46
Thermal Cut-Out - Item 47
Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 48
Heater Box Bracket - Item 50

If you have questions, please let me know.

NOTE: If you are experiencing problems with the dryer not producing heat, it may not be the heating. If you've confirmed the heating element to be faulty, great. If you haven't, please read through the following:

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

The part numbers you may need are as follows:

Heating Element - 3387747
Thermal Cut-Out/Thermostat Kit - 279769

NOTE: If a replacement power cord is required, you can purchase them at any hardware store.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

you don't lite a gas dryer.the glow bar light's the dryer.

Sounds like the thermal cut-off is kicking in. Try checking the vent to make sure its not blocked and causing it to overheat, this would cause the cool down (the other candidate is a bad fuse, but if you fixed that already I would leave that for last)

check out the thermo switch first, it is installed on the heater coil box, check for continuity through it with a self powered test light.

Could just be a matter of wires coming loose. The movement and vibration of the spinning could have shaken wires loose. look for any wires not connected to anything.

do you have it on more or less?,if so the timer will not move unless there is heat, do you have heat?are the clothes drying ?if you have it on time dry the timer is bad try moving it past the spot were it's sticking and see if it counts down

A typical problem that causes tumble dryers to stop heating up is the thermal overload cut-out devices. These are safety devices, and are some times "single-shot". That is, if they operate, and shut off the heating element, then they need to be replaced, usually as a pair along with the thermostat (they look very similar). The other common fault is that the heating element fails. However, if the thermal cut-out was the problem, LOOK FOR A CAUSE. If it is a condenser drier, check the condenser box is not clogged with lint/fluff

Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Hello there
here is some troubleshooting tips for you ok
The drum of the dryer is usually turned by a motor-and-belt assembly. There are two very clear signs that the belt is malfunctioning: You can easily spin the drum by hand when the dryer is off, or you hear a heavy thumping sound coming from the drum when the dryer is running. Here's how to test and replace the drum belt: