check that you are getting gas and that the ignitor is sparking properly shut off the gas first remove the cover also get an amp meter hook the meter on one of the igniotr wires should read 3.3 amps if it is less then change the ignitor hope this helps
If you have already cleaned the vent then the
problem is with the Thermal fuse. When the thermal fuse goes bad it cannot be
reset and replacing it is recommended repair. It is located on the blower wheel
housing inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct. You can test it for
continuity before replacing. Please get back to me if you have any other
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Hello. You likely need to replace the gas valve safety coils. You can do one of 2 things. You can purchase a voltohm meter for under 20 dollars, or you can start replacing components within the burner assembly until you find the problem. The valve is very reliable and rarely fails. One of the most common parts that need replacing in the burner assembly is the valve solenoids. If you choose to purchase one for testing purposes, I'm posting a link now that will show you exactly how to use it. Dont be intimidated by it (you might already know how to use one, but I dont know that). Here is the helpful video. It's easier to see than explain in words. http://applianceassistant.com/safety/how_to_use_a_volt_meter.php http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5133609&diagram_id=28278866#d28278866 LGN2000LW0---zero*
Your dryer will have a cap on the lower left side of the front cabinet. This is a viewing port for observing the burner assembly. I also did a parts search with that model number and found 2 close matches. You will need to look at these links, and then decide with your model number which one is yours. They will help you determing where all of the parts are located within your dryer and burner assembly.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, you know that it's okay, you also know that the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer is okay. NEXT, you'll want to see if it turns OFF. If it didnt I'll cover that later. If the ignitor clicks off after a few seconds of glowing bright orange, You know that the flame switch mounted to the left of the burner tube is OKAY as well. At the moment the click of the flame switch is observed, the burner valve should release gas for burner ignition. If the ignitor turns off with no ignition, and you are positive you're getting gas supply to the dryer, you likely will have to replace the two coil valve solenoids on the top of the burner. The two safety coils may gradually fail over weeks, or even months giving longer dry times and only partial heating. As safety coils are failing, they'll work fine for only a short amount of time, and then after about 30 minutes of cycling on and off to maintain the drum's temperature, they will break down and cease to open the valve leaving you with cool or wet clothing at the end of the cycle.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF you likely have a bad flame switch (flame sensor).
Here are some helpful links for part replacement in the burner assembly; You will unplug the dryer before any continuity testing or unit disassembly. If you test for continuity on a live circuit, that poses a big risk to you and it will fry your meter. http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic#p/search/1/tMqublMvau0 Flame sensor replacement. To test the flame sensor (located on the burner tube), unplug the wire connector, and put the voltohm meter test leads to the 2 prongs and test for continuity. If it has continuity, it's okay.
I hope that you found this helpful, and that you can solve your problem with it. I will be happy to help you further if you need any assistance. Let me know if you need help, or you get your problem solved. It really makes my day to help someone out.
its a standard 10 watt 120 volt night light bulb thats found in your bathroom night light and is available at most grocery or hardware stores and home centers,please rate this if it helped you.thank you
When you say it turns off do you mean motor quits it that the case you motor is over heating and needs to be replace. It wll shut off for a while and then later work fine for three more minutes and do the same. If you mean it quits heating the the thermostadt is sticlking and need to be raplaced.
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. If you plan to try to repair the problem yourself, then the first thing you want to do is unplug the dryer from the electric. Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air tube you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the coil is not your problem then you should check the thermal fuse/thermistor. An easy check for them is to remove the wires from the fuse/thermistor and tape the wires together, if the coil heats then replace the fuse/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THEM TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
If you do then you could cause a fire because you have no safety. Good Luck, Hope this helps
The problem is with the gas coils.
When they get weak, they only come on for about 10 minutes and then the machine will blow cold air. There are 2 of them with one being the booster coil. They come in a pair and run less than $20.
Best of luck. Please e-mail me if you have any other questions.