hi go on ebay look for apliance spares he will sort it for you i think you can find him under find a seller if not put in seach 35mm hotpoint bearing look at sellers name allways got wot i need from him good prices fast delivery hope this helps
you will need to include the model number of the unit for a proper answer as there are too many answer possibilities to list.
The model number is usually listed just inside the door opening.
You can try to go to http://www.partselect.com/. at the top of site you will find a tab "Instant repairman". it will ask you a series of questions and give you some ideas of what it could be. sometimes it will provide step by step video on how to fix along with part no. and nearest parts store. I've used this site a few times and it hasnt failed me yet. hope it can help you as well.
Might be helping you to find someone ( this could be yourself) with an electric multi-meter or an ohmmeter who knows how to use it.
What you would do unplug the machine, then take it all apart until you have access to the insides, and then test all of the wires, thermostats, fuses, elements, etc. until you find the bad one.
You would be using the ohmmeter function of the machine, and setting it on "ohms resistance".
Many stores, such and a hardware store, or like a Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, or the like sell these. Some are prices as low as
$ 15. .
Be sure to check the units you have already replaced to see if they were really bad.
Be blessed.
The most common stuff that comes to mind first:
1) one of the rollers (there are 2) has worn out and they skreech as
they're being killed. I've even seen rollers fall apart, with the outer
part of the roller (the rubber part) squeaking as it revolves around a
frozen-on roller bearing.
FIX: replace roller(s) that're making noise
Cost of part: $10
2) the motor bearing are shot - they scream as they're being ground to dust.
Fix: replace motor.
Cost: if dryer is old, replace dryer. If Dryer under warranty, use it.
Thermal fuse is located on the output side of the blower housing. To double check if this is the problem you can jumper across the connection to see if the dryer will come on. Thermal fuse controls the output temperature. If this gets too high it shuts down the dryer to protect it. So if you jumper it you will be putting the fuse out of the system. Do not run with it in this mode.Double check the door switch. Do you have two breakers that feed the dryer? If one is tripped (weak) it will cause a cool dry mode.
Unplug the unit and take the top with the screws holding the lid on. Take a look at all of the wires on the top of the machine. You might notice broken/burnt wires on the safeties that are close to or that directly activate the heating element located in the blower housing located at the top of this washer/dryer condensing unit.
Check the schematic of machine. The heater element is not getting power. Check for some sort of switch that is between the power line going into machine and the input to the element.
Dryer is a simple machine. Could be the contact on the on switch for the unit that is no longer making proper contact.
when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer and vent line?all a dryer does is move air,if the dryer hasn't been cleaned it won't dry the clothes.your model has the lint filter on top,unplug the dryer,pull it out away from the wall,disconnect the vent line from the back,now pull it out so you can work on the back,first pull out the lint filter and remove the 2 phillips screws in front of it on the top panel,now go in the back and remove the back wall,on the left side you'll see the metal duct that the lint filter slides down into,remove the 4 screws and you already removed the other 2 screws on top so now you can remove the metal duct and clean it out,vac up ant lint in the back,if you have a shop vac set it up to blow and blow out the blower wheel and the heater duct on the right side,after it's all cleaned up put it back together but don't put the 2 top screws in,after you have it back together clean out the vent line,if it's a long run i use a leaf blower,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,just make sure the outside duct is clear,no cage or anything that will block the lint,put the vent line back on and push the dryer back,now pop the top and clean out the front of dryer,i'll send you a viideo on how to take the dryer apart.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGIG8Wo5-N4good luck and if you know the heat is working most likely you have a block somewhere and you should do this once a year so your clothes will dry on time,if you see that it takes more time to dry your clothes this is where to start also so you don't have a dryer fire.
It could be: the knob/control panel, one or more fuses, or the heating element. When this happened to me it was the heating element on my electric dryer. The heating element stopped working because the air flow was blocked, causing the heating element to work too hard and develop a break. The air flow was blocked because you're supposed to take the dryer out every 6 months and clean the lint out of the vent behind the machine. No where in any owners manual does it really explain this. For my machine, the heating element was about 50 bucks and it was easy to fix it myself, but don't order a new heating element unless you know that's what it is. It could also be a problem with the knob, one of the fuses, etc. The heating element is the most expensive problem. The fuses are cheaper. If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance, but the place where I buy my appliance parts will check them for free. You might try calling around to see if a place near you will do that for you.
you will find a tab "Instant repairman". it will ask you a series of questions and give you some ideas of what it could be. sometimes it will provide step by step video on how to fix along with part no. and nearest parts store. I've used this site a few times and it hasnt failed me yet. hope it can help you as well.
