I've cleaned the lint traps, checked the circut breaker - Help!
i need help fixing my 5 year old dryer. whirlpool duet model GEW9200LW1. I have replaced the thermistor. I tested (with an ohm meter) the heating coil, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, & heating element and they were all fine. I replaced the electronic control assembly and the user interface. THE DRYER STILL WONT HEAT.
Then it occurred to me that the sensor may not allow the dryer to heat if its not sensing wet. Could this be true? Have I been trouble shooting this wrong?
Help me.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
Won't move past sensing
Found the culprit. The thermal fuse was blown. Had no conductivity with ohm meter so I placed a jumper around it and presto dryer runs. Cleaned the exhaust and fan but found no blockage and really was not that bad. Hoping maybe just a weak part. The model on the Whirlpool Duet electric dryer is GEW9250PWL I believe the the last three are just the color. The part number on the Thermal Fuse is #3392519. This is easy to get to through the front panel just below the load door. Hope this helps some else out.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
Our Duet dryer just stopped getting any power on the control panel. When you open the door, the light inside the dryer works, but there is no further power on the front control. We checked curcuit breaker..fine; unplugged and plugged again. We also took ff the top of the dryer, did not notice any loose connections; plus we cleaned out the dryer vent...which was clean.
Any assistance would be much appreciated.
Mine shows a faint light behind the control locked indicator and the timer is dimly lit on the two middle horizontal bars (middle of the eights). They go off by pushing various button combos. If I unplug it for a week I can get the control to work for a few minutes.
I replaced the control board, it worked for 5 minutes, then back to nothing. I want to replace the interface but would rather not waste any more money.
I dont want to check every wire for continuity. If someone has fixed this problem, please let me know.
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
While on automatic cycle the timer on our Whirlpool Duet dryer run for 5 mins from 40 mins and then the timer jumps to 26 mins. Timer works fine in manual mode.
clean the stainless steel sensor pads located just inside the dryer door with isopropyl alcohol,these sensors register moisture in the garments and adjust drying times accordingly,when you use dryer fabric softener sheets it coats these sensors and throws the system off,make sure to shut off power to unit as this alcohol is very flammable,then leave door open to air out before re-powering up unit
Posted on Apr 27, 2012
I'm getting a AF code? What does this mean?
"AF" is a restricted air flow condition. You say you've only had your dryer for 3 months, but have you ever cleaned the ducting? You need to check the lint screen after every load, AND you need to perform routine cleaning of the dryer venting (inside the dryer, as well as the vent line from the dryer to where it exits the house) about every three months. If left in this condition, the dryer heating circuitry will eventually failed and/or you could cause a fire hazard. An easy way to check to see if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer. Run the dryer to see if you have air flow coming from the back of the unit. The air should be about 140 degrees F and forceful. Check to see if the error comes back. If everything runs fine, then you know the problem exists in the vent line between the dryer and where it exits the house. If you still have problems, you will need to unplug the dryer, remove the back panel and inspect the interior for clogs. At least you have a dryer that warns you when the air flow become restricted or blocked. Most dryers will continue to run until they overheat or fail. I hope this information is helpful. Post back with your comments and let me know.
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
every now and again I get an e-2 error code at the end of the normal drying cycle. the clothes are all drying fine but is there something looming on the horizon?
“E2” flashes if the thermistor has shorted.
The thermistor monitors the exhaust temperature
and cycles the high-limit thermostat on
and off to maintain the desired temperature.
1. Turn the dryer off but keep the electrical
supply connected.
2. Make sure that the dryer is empty and that
the lint screen is clean.
3. Close the dryer door.
4. Select Heavy Duty, Timed Dry, More Time
or Less Time, End of Cycle Signal (Louder)
and Start.
5. If error codes E1 or E2 flash on the display
after 1 minute and the dryer turns off,
the thermistor, or the wire harness, is either
shorted or open. Check the wire connections
at the thermistor or the machine
control electronics board. If wiring checks
okay, replace the thermistor.
6. If the dryer seems to operate normally, remove
the exhaust vent and start the dryer.
7. Select the desired temperature cycle to be
tested, and select 20 minutes of Timed Dry
heat using the More Time or Less Time
pushbuttons.
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
now one of the wires are burnt and i am scared to use it. please help!
Hello www_jaymepri,
The fact that you can see one of the wires is burnt suggests ( that it is a wire on the power cord). If that is not true, please elaborate on exactly which wire you saw that was burnt. I am assuming it is the power cord and will walk you thru changing it. First off, you need to unplug that cord from teh power receptacle. If there is any question regarding the insulation on the dryer power cord, I would encourage you to remve or disable power to the receptacle in your circuit breaker box. Once power has been disabled, unplug the dryer cord from the receptacle. Make note of the plug end and determine it is a 3 prong or 4 prong configuration. If unsure, cut that cord off the dryer and bring it with you when you get a replacement. Most home good departement stores liek Home Depot or Lowes sell replacement power cords for this very purpose. Once you get a replacement cord, slide the dryer away from the wall so that you have ample rooom to get to the back of it.
Note where the existing ( original ) cord penetrates thru the back of the dryer cabinet ( normally thru a pass thru with a cable clamp). Loosen the cable clamp screws to free the cord up and also remove the access cover near it so that you can see where it is wired in. With the cover removed, you should see a terminal block where the power cord lugs are connected. Make note of the colors associated with these connections. They are normally red, white, black and/or green. The red and black lines are the actual supply line ( power) and are commonly terminated on either side of the neutral line ( normally a white line). The green wire is normally the ground connection and is tied to the dryer frame someplace. The ground wire termination varies from mfr to mfr and model to model but the end result is that it is bonded to the frame of the dryer. So, when installing the replacement cord, pass it thru the cable clamp and over to the terminal block. Then install one wire at a time and based on the colored ends to match what you presently have. Make sure you tighten the screws that hold the wire lugs snuggly .. Loose connections here, have been known to cause resistive junctions and get hot enough to cause fires so make sure these screws are tight. Then, tighten the cable clamp so that it locks the cord in place and doesn't slide freely inside that clamp.
When all wires have been installed, plug in the cord to the receptacle and switch on the circuit breaker. Before positioning the dryer back against the wall, try running it for a minute or two without any clothes in it to make sure it operates correctly ( heats up and the drum rotates) The exhaust from electric dryers ( albeit, not healthy) can be vented into a room for a minute or two while you test things. Gas dryers should not be allowed to vent into a room. Hopefully this will resolve your problem. Feel free to send me a follow up notice if you are experiencing another problem not associated with the cord.
Regards,
Rick
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
I have a Whirlpool Duet Steam Dryer and it beeps during drying. When I open the dryer door, the beeping stops, but the clothes is not dry. This is a brand new dryer....
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Posted on Dec 16, 2008
maytag dryer control is locked. how do I unlock it?
How do I unlock my Maytag epic z dryer
Posted on Nov 29, 2010
My whirlpool duet electric dryer not drying in any cycle.
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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