Top 20 Whirlpool LSR6232J Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

If you find no problems with the suspension rods and springs, you can remove that spin basket and check for an item that could be stuck between the spin basket and the plastic outer tub. Also, check the "balance ring" on the top of the basket. The should be fluid in it. You can check this my shaking the basket and you should hear water.

This is almost certainly a simple problem with your empty pump filter being clogged. The empty cycle is timed and if it can't get all the water out in time because the filter is blocked and slowing the empty down, then it will fail safe and won't step on to the final spin cycle with excess water in the drum. You need to locate and clean the filter. Depending on the model (not familiar which with the model you mention) there is probably a round filter cap on the front of the machine at the bottom (It may be behind a small door or hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom)

you need to replace the inlrt valve

you can do that,just insulate them very well and then don't stick your hand into the machine when its spinning cause i guarantee it will tear your arm off at worst if not dislocate it,keep your mind on your work and don't let little kids near it

Simple, dont as this could be very dangerouse. as machine will work. Think saftey as you dont want children, or your own limbs ripped from your body for the sake of saving a small ammount of money.

Behind each end cap (back of washer) you will find a screw hidden beneath a plastic tab. Place a Phillips head screwdriver against the tab and onto the screw. Unscrew it and then pull the control panel forward toward the front of the washer. Lift the head by the end caps and rotate it upward. It will stay attached to the back panel and expose all the parts inside the control area.

we just bypass them,unless your going to stick your hand in there during spin cycle,-unplug washer,remove the 2 head screws 1 on each side of the head,flip the head up,you will see the lid switch jack in the middle of the top of washer, unplug it,cut the 2 outside wires and wire nut them together,plug back in,put the head back,plug in washer and your done,this way it cost you nothing to fix,the other way would be around $40,let me know how you do-mike

lid switch,do you want me to show you how to bypass it?mike

you need to replace the lid switch common problem if the lid has been slamed its just plastic

Hello Roger.
Please do the following checks for they might just help.

Check that the water supply valves are turned on
Inspect the filter screens
Test for overheating
Inspect the water pump
Test the water inlet valve
Test the motor

Most probably this case may be due to a faulty motor.Good luck.

If the washer fills, but fails to agitate or spin, the likely cause is a failed motor coupling. There is usually a loud rattling noise associated with a broken coupler. This may be the noise you hear. NOTE: The washer will STILL drain if the motor coupling is bad. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top

If the washer fills, may or may not agitate, then stops right after filling, or just before the spin cycle*, you more than likely have a failed lid switch. NOTE: The washer will NOT drain with a defective lid switch. The following link explains how to replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

* These symptoms vary between models. The result is still the same, however, the washer generally stops at some point before the spin cycle and will not complete a wash load.

Read through both links and try to determine your symptoms. When it comes to lid switches, they sometimes come loose and only need to be retightened. Double check the mounting screws. In most cases, the clicking sound of the switch indicates the switch is good. However, I have found where the actual switch assembly was cracked or separated and made a similar sound, but the contacts were not engaging. Inspect the entire switch, if in doubt.

Motor Couplers allow for the Drive Motor to drive the transmission. This is the connecting link between the two. The coupler takes the punishment in order to protect the motor and transmission from damage. If you are in the habit of washing heavy loads (i.e., blankets, comforters, etc.) this can reduce the life of the coupler. A tell tale sign of a broken coupler is a pile of black filings under the washer. This is usually particles of the rubber bushing between the coupler halves. Another thing that happens is the center hole of the plastic coupler would round out and spin on the either motor or transmission shaft as the older couplers were made entirely of plastic. Replacement couplers (the part number I provided in the link) now have a steel grommet in the center of the plastic which prevents this from happening.

If you check both these possibilites and you still have problems, let me know. I'm trying to rule out the possibility of something more significant, like a transmission problem. Both of these parts are inexpensive (about $50 combined) and can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number in the search menu. The lid switch is located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part number 3949247). The Motor Coupling can be located under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading as item number 13 (part number provided in the link). For comparative shopping, repairclinic.com also carries these parts, sometimes at a reduced price.

I hope this helps you. If you have questions, please let me know.

i think the water is syphoning. if drain hose is pushed into a stand pipe, then you have it pushed too far down. otherwise, take the drain hose up in a swan neck at least to the level of the worktop

not a good model number but anyway the water inlet valve needs to be replaced

If you are talking about a small plastic piece that is on the washer lid that pushes down on the lid switch when the lid is closed, it called a "lid strike". This is an easy fix and does not require opening the washer. If, however, the lid switch itself (which is mounted under the washer tub rim) is damaged you can replace it by following these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Replacement parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (located along the opening of the tub rim under the lid) in the Search Index. A parts index with illustrations and prices is available.

Good Luck and I hope this helps you. Post back if you have any further comments/questions.

Your model number will be located somewhere around your tub opening under the lid. The parts you are looking for are called "agitator dogs" (yes, there is such a thing). There are four of them located under the agitator cap that help grip the agitator shaft when turning. This causes the agitator to crank in one direction during the wash cycle. The part number for the entire repair kit is 2744 and costs $16.80. This includes all the washers and bushings as well as the dogs. If you just want to purchase the dogs, the part number is 3109 and costs $5.20. For a little more, the entire kit would be a better recommendation. You can get everything you need at repairclinic.com. If you cannot locate your model number, type in the brand name of your washer (i.e., Whirlpool Stylemaster Washer) in the "Search" window and you will find what you need. These parts are the same identical parts that your major appliance service companies use, but cost much less (I should know, I used to work for one of them). Let me know if you decide to repair on your own and I can give you follow-up advice on how to take the agitator apart and replace the parts you need.

Have you checked the lid switch??? This will prevent it from spinning look on the lid you will see a plunger.. watch where it goes down to you can use a pen to press the sw while the lid is up to see if it is working ...PS: dont forget to set it into the spin cycle first..let me know what happens

If you still need to get to the lid switch, just follow these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) and there will be a parts index available to you with illustrations and pricing info.

Good Luck to you. I hope this helps you. Post back if you have any further questions/comments.

does your model have a drive coupling its between the motor and gearcase,when they brake the machine wont wash or spin and makes a wierd noise

First check youp plug point by plugging in a lamp or something, there could be no supply; next check your washer's plug.

Check your lid switch. This is a tell tale symptom of a lid switch gone bad. The washer fills, agitates, but will not spin or drain. The lid switch is located along the right hand side of the lid opening on most models, but some newer models have a switch in the left rear of the lid. Simply open and shut the lid several times and listen for a distinctive "click" of the lid switch as you open and close the lid. A lid switch usually runs about $35 to replace. If you provide me with your washer model number (usually located under the lid somewhere) I can give you the part number you need. That is...if the lid switch is the problem. The only other problem that I have encountered that caused the same symptoms, was a bad timer. Timer vs Lid Switch: Lid switch is a cheaper fix. I would try this option first. Let me know if this helps and/or if you need more guidance.