20 Most Recent Whirlpool LSR6232J Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

If you are talking about a small plastic piece that is on the washer lid that pushes down on the lid switch when the lid is closed, it called a "lid strike". This is an easy fix and does not require opening the washer. If, however, the lid switch itself (which is mounted under the washer tub rim) is damaged you can replace it by following these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Replacement parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (located along the opening of the tub rim under the lid) in the Search Index. A parts index with illustrations and prices is available.

Good Luck and I hope this helps you. Post back if you have any further comments/questions.

If the washer fills, but fails to agitate or spin, the likely cause is a failed motor coupling. There is usually a loud rattling noise associated with a broken coupler. This may be the noise you hear. NOTE: The washer will STILL drain if the motor coupling is bad. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top

If the washer fills, may or may not agitate, then stops right after filling, or just before the spin cycle*, you more than likely have a failed lid switch. NOTE: The washer will NOT drain with a defective lid switch. The following link explains how to replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

* These symptoms vary between models. The result is still the same, however, the washer generally stops at some point before the spin cycle and will not complete a wash load.

Read through both links and try to determine your symptoms. When it comes to lid switches, they sometimes come loose and only need to be retightened. Double check the mounting screws. In most cases, the clicking sound of the switch indicates the switch is good. However, I have found where the actual switch assembly was cracked or separated and made a similar sound, but the contacts were not engaging. Inspect the entire switch, if in doubt.

Motor Couplers allow for the Drive Motor to drive the transmission. This is the connecting link between the two. The coupler takes the punishment in order to protect the motor and transmission from damage. If you are in the habit of washing heavy loads (i.e., blankets, comforters, etc.) this can reduce the life of the coupler. A tell tale sign of a broken coupler is a pile of black filings under the washer. This is usually particles of the rubber bushing between the coupler halves. Another thing that happens is the center hole of the plastic coupler would round out and spin on the either motor or transmission shaft as the older couplers were made entirely of plastic. Replacement couplers (the part number I provided in the link) now have a steel grommet in the center of the plastic which prevents this from happening.

If you check both these possibilites and you still have problems, let me know. I'm trying to rule out the possibility of something more significant, like a transmission problem. Both of these parts are inexpensive (about $50 combined) and can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number in the search menu. The lid switch is located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part number 3949247). The Motor Coupling can be located under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading as item number 13 (part number provided in the link). For comparative shopping, repairclinic.com also carries these parts, sometimes at a reduced price.

I hope this helps you. If you have questions, please let me know.

not a good model number but anyway the water inlet valve needs to be replaced

First check youp plug point by plugging in a lamp or something, there could be no supply; next check your washer's plug.

If you still need to get to the lid switch, just follow these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) and there will be a parts index available to you with illustrations and pricing info.

Good Luck to you. I hope this helps you. Post back if you have any further questions/comments.

Have you checked the lid switch??? This will prevent it from spinning look on the lid you will see a plunger.. watch where it goes down to you can use a pen to press the sw while the lid is up to see if it is working ...PS: dont forget to set it into the spin cycle first..let me know what happens

Your model number will be located somewhere around your tub opening under the lid. The parts you are looking for are called "agitator dogs" (yes, there is such a thing). There are four of them located under the agitator cap that help grip the agitator shaft when turning. This causes the agitator to crank in one direction during the wash cycle. The part number for the entire repair kit is 2744 and costs $16.80. This includes all the washers and bushings as well as the dogs. If you just want to purchase the dogs, the part number is 3109 and costs $5.20. For a little more, the entire kit would be a better recommendation. You can get everything you need at repairclinic.com. If you cannot locate your model number, type in the brand name of your washer (i.e., Whirlpool Stylemaster Washer) in the "Search" window and you will find what you need. These parts are the same identical parts that your major appliance service companies use, but cost much less (I should know, I used to work for one of them). Let me know if you decide to repair on your own and I can give you follow-up advice on how to take the agitator apart and replace the parts you need.

your right. the parts you need are called dogs. they com in a set of 4. replace all 4 at the same time

based on the detail info you have given all i can say is check the pump for either not working or blockages

Question edited for clarity. You can decode from the serial number. This says 1982.

Whirlpool Date Codes

Electrical-Forensics https://www.electrical-forensics.com > MajorAppliances An alpha code in the model number indicates the year the model was introduced. Before 1981, the second digit of the model number contained the code. After 1981, ... This one is 1993 https://www.fixya.com/support/t1006047-whirlpool_stylemaster_4214164 ..

There appears to be a solution here

Why has my whirlpool washer started asking me about

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.co.uk > appliance > h42zj-whirl... Jun 24, 2021 - I dont have an error code. I set my washer to wash (press play) it senses then asks 'compartment II 53ml? I have to then press play again ... I have a whirlpool 6th sense zen 12 kg washing machine Jan 7, 2023 Error f24 on my machine, Whirlpool 6 sense I'm not sure how May 1, 2022 How do I remove demo mode from my whirlpool 6th sense 9kg May 13, 2021 My 6th sense Whirlpool dryer has stopped working. 2 red LED Jul 29, 2014 More results from www.justanswer.co.uk A little more here https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+6th+sense+is+displaying+this+message+Compartment+II+37ml ..

It won't be easy - the necklace went through the hole so logically it should come back, unfortunately it is the nature of a necklace to be a random structure unless some tension is applied; the links or whatever are apt to go sideways and jam in the hole. In an extreme case the necklace could be knotted... If it is knotted there is no chance of removal and the solution is either to dismantle the washer or to break the necklace. Positioning the drum so the necklace is under tension under its own weight and with some jiggling and the application of lots of patience and some luck it should come back through the hole.

What is the model number for this washer?

Check the Coin Mechanism: Ensure that the coin mechanism is functioning correctly. Sometimes, coins may get stuck or not register properly. Verify that the coin slots are clear and that the mechanism is engaging properly. If there's an issue with the coin mechanism, it could prevent the washer from starting. You might need to clean or repair it. Inspect the Wiring: There should be a harness with two wires that go into the coin mechanism box. Check if these wires are intact and properly connected. If you find any damage or loose connections, consider repairing or replacing the wiring. Bypass the Coin Mechanism: If you suspect that the coin mechanism is causing the problem, you can bypass it temporarily. Cut the wires going into the coin mechanism and insert a push button switch in the line. This will allow you to manually start the washer without relying on the coin mechanism. If you're unsure how to do this, consider contacting a local repair shop for assistance. Check for Other Issues: Inspect other components such as the lid switch, control board, and start button. Any malfunction in these parts could prevent the washer from starting. Make sure the washer is plugged in and that there are no tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses.

Check the suspension springs for stretching and shock absorber for operation. I am having difficulty finding that model. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+Cabrio+wtw6707w2+washer%2C+UL+code ..

The F20 error code on a Whirlpool Duet Steam Washer typically indicates a water inlet problem. It means the washer is not getting enough water to continue the wash cycle. This can be due to several reasons, even if it seems like water is flowing fine at first glance. Here are steps you can take to troubleshoot and potentially resolve the issue:

1. Check Water Supply Hoses:
   • Ensure both the hot and cold water faucets are fully open.
   • Inspect the water inlet hoses for kinks, bends, or twists that could restrict water flow. Straighten out any issues you find.
   • Turn off the water supply, disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer, and check that the filter screens inside the water inlet valve are not clogged with debris. Clean them carefully if needed.
2. Water Pressure:
   • The washer requires a certain amount of water pressure to function correctly. Low household water pressure can lead to insufficient water flow to the washer. Make sure your home's water pressure is within the washer's required range.
3. Check for Siphoning:
   • Make sure the drain hose is correctly installed. The end of the hose should not be too far down the standpipe, and there should be an air gap to prevent siphoning.
4. Inlet Valves:
   • If the water hoses and screens are clear, there might be an issue with the water inlet valves themselves. They might not be opening fully due to electrical issues or mechanical failure.
   • The inlet valves can be tested with a multimeter for continuity to ensure they are functioning correctly. If they lack continuity, they need to be replaced.
5. Flow Meter:
   • Some Whirlpool Duet models have a flow meter that measures the amount of water entering the washer. If this component malfunctions, it could mistakenly signal that there's not enough water, even when there is.
   • Diagnosing a flow meter requires some technical knowledge and a service manual for your specific model.
6. Pressure Switch:
   • The washer uses a pressure switch to monitor the water level. If there's an issue with this switch or the hose connected to it, the washer might incorrectly interpret the problem as insufficient water flow.
   • Check the pressure switch and the hose for any blockage, disconnection, or damage.
7. Reset the Washer:
   • Since unplugging the washer hasn't cleared the error, after checking the above, try to reset the control board by unplugging the washer for about 5 minutes, then plugging it back in.

If after trying these steps the F20 error persists, it may be time to consult the manual for more specific troubleshooting steps for your model or contact a professional appliance repair service. Sometimes, the problem could be related to the washer's electronic control board or other components that require professional diagnosis and repair.

Is the correct tension on the belt; too much and the bearing could be getting damaged. If you remove the belt, check the drum moves freely with no noise. If noisy, replace the bearing or purchase a new machine.

Stale smells come from not drying the front gasket trough just inside the door. Your bleach isn't cleaning that area. Use Tilex Mold spray on it. Clean and dry the door glass as well and leave the door open for a few hours after a wash or leave it open all the time. If it is dry, it can't smell.There will always be some water in the pump area, but if you remove the pump filter cover, that releases and water left behind.When you use bleach always do whites or your tea towels next. You can also dilute by adding a couple of jugs of water first.There is a trick to look for rattling items between the inner and outer drum. Put a good flashlight against the holes in the drum and you can see what is below without getting the glare from the drum.These websites give you a full parts schematic showing all the parts and their positions.https://www.appliancepartspros.com/tub-basket-parts-for-whirlpool-wfw94heaw0.htmlWhirlpool Washer WFW94HEAW0 - OEM Parts & Repair Helppartselect.cahttps://www.partselect.caCanada Wide Same-Day Shipping For All In-Stock Parts. Shop Canadian And Avoid Customs ' 2 Million Parts Ready To Ship. OEM Parts & Accessories. One-Year Warranty. Money Back Guarantee. Free Repair Help & Videos. Types: Dishwasher Parts, Dryer Parts.

If the machine runs a while and then drains, it is like that there is a leak and the leak sensor has been activated. There is a tray between the base of the machine and the kitchen floor.