20 Most Recent Whirlpool Gold Duet GHW9400P 3.8 Cu. Ft. Front-Loading Washer Questions & Answers

sounds like maybe the drive belt broke

How can anyone know without a model #?

Check out the belt drive on unit. Could be stretched out. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Duet washer started getting louder and louder during the spin cycle. When I manually turned the basket I could feel that the bearings were shot. A quick search of the internet confirmed that this problem was no fluke. I found an illustrated parts breakdown of my washer online, and saw that Whirlpool only offers a replacement rear tub assembly, at a cost of $408. Needless to say, I was pissed off. I paid about $960 two years ago for this machine, and now it will require $6-700 in repairs. Unacceptable. So, having a mechanical background, I started to tear into the machine myself. I tore it all the way down to the rear tub half. I found what appeared to be the problem with my machine, hair. Hair worked its way to the bearing area, slowed unseated the seal, and then acted as a conduit for water to enter the bearing cavity. The seal itself actually looked fine. Yet the steel hub that the bearings are pressed into was badly corroded, as were the bearings, and even the driveshaft had corrosion on it. I pounded out the cheap factory bearings, cleaned up the bearing cavity and driveshaft, and replaced them with some higher quality Toyo's from my local bearings and drive store, P/N's 6206ZZC3 & 6205ZZC3. Unfortunately they didnt have a suitable replacement seal in stock. I didnt damage the factory one too badly upon removal, so I straightened it up with a couple of hammer taps, made sure it sealed nicely against the driveshaft, and reused it. The new bearings cost me $20. I made sure I sent a nastygram to Whirlpool, they offered me a replacement rear tub for 50% off, I told them to stick it. Hopefully I get at least 3 more years out of it, I've already started looking for my next machine, I'm likely going to buy a SpeedQueen. Anyways, if your tub bearings are shot and you have the will, they can be replaced yourself for a fraction of the cost of a factory rear tub half. My advice, take notes during disassembly, keep all the hardware from the different components you remove separated from one another. Dont be afraid to use permanent marker to write reminders directly on the components as theyll be hidden inside the reassembled washer when done. I did the repairs by myself, having a helper wouldve made things much easier. As for tools, I was shocked at how few I actually needed. A nut driver or torx apex, a 1/2" socket and rachet, some slip joint pliers, a wrench to remove the drive pulley, and a hammer and punch to remove/install the bearings. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It sounds like the solenoid on the water valve is bad

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.

SORRY NO

Check for child lock activation

mildew problem comes from not keeping the door open for 2 hours after you finished you

Hi. Try to remove the sand filter(s) from the inlet hose. Both on the valve and on the water crane(tap) end. Common problem. Usually this is the problem, but not always. / Geir Technical Engineer

There are bearings on the drum that go out and sadly on the WP Duets, they aren\'t replaceable. You have to purchase an outer rear drum and replacing them is annoying. There are lots of youtube videos but unless you find a used one for parts, you will spend about $300 just on the drum and the labor for it will be ridiculous.

I suspect that the hose reaching from the water control solenoids to the fill spout is loose or damaged.

Hi,

The F11 code means a loss of communication between the Computor Control Unit (CCU) circuit board and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) Most often the problem is bad solder joints on the CCU circuit board where the relays (5 of them) and the spade connectors are supposed to be firmly connected to the circuit board. The cure is to remove the CCU circuit board and touch up those solder joints I mentioned. It's easier to remove the CCU case with the board in it then remove the circuit board. The case is located inside the machine at the top twords the back. If your not up on soldering techniques you could remove the CCU case and board and take them, along with this response, to a good appliance repair shop and they should be able to help you out. Good luck. As a note, this repair also cures the FdL code.