This is often a worn clutch or broken t-bearing support. If the t-bearing support or ball cracks and breaks or comes out of place the clutch will drop and the brake pad will not be able to engage. The other common problem is the clutch may be adjusted at the clutch This is often a worn clutch or broken t-bearing support. If the t-bearing support or ball cracks and breaks or comes out of place the clutch will drop and the brake pad will not be able to engage. The other common problem is the clutch may be adjusted at the clutch support shaft. Some of the support shaftshave a nut on them and some just have washers. You will have to raise the nut a little or add 1 washer to help push the clutch up and engage the brake pad to stop the spinning and agitating at the same time. Sometimes a new clutch and brake pad is the only repair or a new t-bearing and ball.
you have a broken motor coupling if you want to tackle this your self then reply to this message and i will tell you how if you have to rate me to reply then give me 4boxes im not sure how this site works you can do it if you like to tinker
After removing the dispenser, you should be able to see a bolt. Removing the bolt will allow multiple pieces to be removed. I would suggest going to Whirlpool.com, click on Service & Support, click on Replacement Parts, and enter your specific Model # at top right corner & click Go, select Agitator...this will give you a parts diagram that will allow you to see how all the pieces/parts are assembled. If you get overwhelmed, perhaps call a repair tech.Hope this helps.
see this causes and fix it. God bless youWasher does not drain Again, depending on the brand,
different parts should be checked. 1st check the lid switch. If you
hear the machine trying to work but no water seems to be draining, you
might have something stuck in your drain pump. You need to check the
drain pump. Whirlpool & Kenmore direct drive systems use a
mechanical pump attached to the front of the motor. Most other newer
models use an electric drain pump except for some of the older
Frigidaires, Maytags, Amanas, & Admirals, they have a belt driven
pump. Check for clogs & belt conditions on these models.
the most common problem after a large load is the motor coupling has broke. it is what connects the motor to the transmission. it is not hard to replace if you can get the cabinet off the unit. you have to take the control panel loose and "hinge" it back to get access to the clips that hold the cabinet on to the frame. once you remove the cabinet, then take off the pump clips, the motor clips and then the motor. that will allow you to get to the coupling and replace with a new one. sounds easy but its not for a first timer. good luck and hope you can find this of some help.
timer sticking if you can get at it spray the timer with wd40 penatrating spray or simmilar if that doesent work it the timer clock probably cheaper to buy a new washer than have this replaced hope this helps ivan
see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless youIt spins, but doesn't pumpIf
your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is
probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of
clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds
the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into
the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump
itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump
and pull the item out.To
remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access
panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump
to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to
grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes
you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove
the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This
isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be
happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.If
the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even
if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken.
If so, you need to replace the pump.It doesn't spin or pumpIf
your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running,
your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to
replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer
and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if
it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returnsIf
the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine
after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a
laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual
remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is
something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
You must have a blockage of some sort in your pump. I have found small socks, panty's, bras, bikinitops and such in the pump. My blog page provides a manual and lots of photos and videos. This is pretty easy to repair. You only need a few standard tools that anyone should have layin around. On your particular model you back out some phillips crews locate behind each shoulder with a skinny phillips screw driver. then flip up the controls and unplug the lid switch. Pop the clips and remove the case. I have some videos of this washer:DIRECT DRIVE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
When you look down into the agitator, are there 4 white plastic points that look slightly melted or otherwise deformed? If so, using a small flat head screw and a small hammer, separate the white plastic from the surrounding translucent plastic. Once you've done that, it should easily pull apart.
