20 Most Recent Whirlpool GBD307PDS Electric Double Oven - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Contact a local appliance store which handles Whirlpool and they would be able to tell you if one would be available.

take the trim peices off. take the screws that hold it to the wall out slidee unit out a little to remove the 2 screws from the consol lift the consol up and off. make sure that you have turned the power off inside the unit you will see a tech sheet that will tell you what that error code means. let me know how it goes the tech sheet is usually on the left side.

somehow you have entered into the oven calibration mode at least that is what it sounds like. Normally if your press the clear button or reset it should come out of that mode you also could try to turn your breaker off for 15-30 min and then turn it back on. I dont think I would recommend cleaning cycle if the oven control is acting up.

Sounds to me like a short. Thats electrical. Now the troubleshooting. I would assume liquid got somewhere and is causing a ground loop somewhere. Thankfully your elecreical system is working as designed. Need to find that short. Possibly one of your element(s) or element connection I think is the culprit. I dont know how handy you are with electrical meters, but i would start at the elements. BE CAREFUL!!! Your messing with 220v. Nasty stuff. Me personally, I would disconnect one element at a time to find which one it is and handle it from there.

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.