20 Most Recent Whirlpool WED5100SQ Front-Load Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

May be the thermal fuse

If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

NOTE: For the model number you have listed this question under, your heating circuits are located behind the rear panel of the dryer. Simply remove the perimeter screws on the back of the dryer for easy access. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.




Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.


If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.


NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi

If the dryer is not drying the clothes then you would need to check for the following things-

Electric Dryer---

1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.

2. Check for the amp reading at 240 V, it should have reading of 24, 21 and 3 amp (approx.) for 2 lines and neutral respectively.

3. Heating element may have turned or the connection to the element might be loose. Sometimes a shorted circuit element will keep on blowing the fuse or circuit breaker.

4. Motor wiring shorting to ground. Hope this helps... Daniel

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The timer has gone bad...
That is not that hard to fix and you can easily buy the parts yourself online...

Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online

heatman101

The actuator may be broken
That's the little tang that sticks out. If that is good then remove the back cover and check the thermal fuse.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck,
I hope this helps
Please do not forget to rate me
Thank you

Hi,
If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

This could be a thermostat, the heating element, or even a wire burned off (or loose).

if it is a top lint filter take the lint filter out,turn dryer on,put your hand in it and you should feel a stong stuckion,if not remove the back panel and the 2 lint filter screws and check for clog-mike

You'll want to check your thermostat, thermal fuse, and the heating element. But start with the element first. If it is not broken visibly, use a volt-ohm-meter to test the thermostat. If it's bad, chances are the thermal cut-off is, too. Always replace them at the same time.

have you checked your airflow vent hose to see if it is obstructed in any way causing it to overheat?

Check the exhaust path, where the lint trap goes. If there is lint in the path, it will retain heat that will shut the unit off. You can't just look and see, you will have to dismantle the path from dryer to final exhaust port to make sure it is all clear.

Sounds like a poor electrical connection. Check where the cord connects to the dryer, and where the cord plugs in to the recepticle. Could easily be where the wires connect onto the recepticle.

Look around for stiff wheels, bad bearings, glides and idlers. Its a good idea to oil the rollers with some temp resistant oil such as zoom oil. Dont use WD40 as this stuff is highly flammable and may cause a fire.
Some previous repair PICTURES
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Some dryers have an auto off switch when the belt breaks. Check your belt and pulley in the bottom of the dryer

sounds like the drum glides are worn or dried out past the nylon it glides on

drain pipe may be to high or you have a plugged water pump. tilt it up on the side and look to see if the water pump is filled with dirt, if it is remove and clean.

If the model number you have this listed under is correct, you can order the parts you need at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

I think the part you are referring to is called the "Door Catch". The part number is 279570. Appliancepartspros.com carries the part for about $3. Use the search by part number feature and take a look at the photo. If this is not the part you need, please let me know.

If you do not wish to order on line, you can go to superpages.com and search for appliance parts in the Forth Worth area. There's a whole listing with a map to show where all the dealerships are lcoated. Use the part number I provided. This is a very common part that any of them should carry in their in-store inventory.

I hope you find this information helpful.