Whirlpool GR460 Electric Kitchen Range - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

first off how old is this stove,there's alot of parts discontinued for this,like the clock assy. and if the oven isn't working this could be your problem.get someone that knows how to use a meter,let them check to see if you have 240 volts going to the oven,if so check to see if power is coming out of board if not the board is no longer available.did anything happen while you were using it or a power failure and has the clock ever gone blank on you or anything like that,if so that also is a bad clock assy. or computer board.

The F5 E1 error message indicates the latch motor was unable to lock the door. When the self clean cycle is started, the control board will turn on the latch motor which is mounted on the rear of this range. The motor is connected to a cam that transfers the motors motion to a rod that runs under the cook-top. Here is the part to order.

The part number you need is 6610333, Whats happening is the relay on the oven control board is stuck or shorted and constant power is applied to the broiler at all times. This is not only irritating but very unsafe. I would turn the breaker off and leave it that way until the part is replaced and the problem resolved. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi marilynbnage,

This issue is often caused by the latching mechanism that used to keep the door shut.These can become damaged during the high temperatures of the self clean cycle, resulting in a stuck door.

Try to use a coat hanger to poke through the grill under the control panel and try to push the solenoid arm out of the way because the latch solenoid is still engaged.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

I have a Whirlpool super capacity 465, the surface light for the burners comes on, the burners don't heat up, nor does the oven,(the light that says oven is on does not light up). I checked the main circuit breaker, that works. Are there any fuses in the range that would need to be replaced?

Thank-You,maddie

Most likely it is F5-E1 code. self clean latch will not lock. follow procdures below,but likely problem is failed lock motor
All F5-E Codes - Door Switch Defect - This occurs when the door switches do not match. If door is latched, disconnect power from unit and check wires and connections. If damage is found, replace appropriate part. If connections are not damaged, reconnect power and hold down any key until the F5 error clears. Once the F2 code appears, select 'cancel' and observe for one minute for errors. If door is NOT latched, disconnect power from unit and check wires and connections. If damage is found, replace appropriate part. If connections are not damaged, measure door switch (door open = latch open) and latch switch (unlatch = switch open) and replace either if defective. If corrections are made during any step, power should be reconnected and the unit should be tested. Press and hold any key to clear the error code and F2 code should appear. Select 'cancel' and observe for one minute for errors. If error continues, disconnect power and replace control.

F3
- E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook
mode)

Replace
Oven temperature sensor (RTD)

Note: Applies to all
F3-E... codes.

Hi
Thanks for using FixYa. Error code F1-E1 means safety flip flop and to resolve this issue you'll have to replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC). Please rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.
Thanks Rylee

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
^T%#$

The F3 E2 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board in the range senses an over-temperature condition in the oven.

This can be caused by a failed temperature sensor probe, a wiring problem between the sensor and the control board, or a failed electronic oven control board.
If the oven is apparently not overheating when this error code appears, then your likely failure is the temperature sensor probe.
If the oven is overheating, then you likely have a failed electronic oven control board due to a stuck relay not cycling the oven heating element off properly.


For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question&*UJ

The E1- F5 error is a door lock error.

The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...

Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused.
You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.

If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display.
This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.

Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.(*&YH

The E1- F5 error is a door lock error.

The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...

Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused.
You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.

If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display.
This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.

Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.@#@#

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

we

It appears your clock has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

You need a new Control Board. about 150.00. It is in back of the knobs / clock. Easy fix

A range that is under 12 kilowatts can be fed with 8-3 with ground cable and a 40 amp two pole breaker .. BUT .. that does not anticipate that the next range might be larger, SO I would use a 6-3 with ground cable and a two pole 50 amp breaker. The extra expence of the wire now is nothing compared to the expense of replacing it later.
Either installation would be using the same 50 amp 4 wire range receptacle.

Please vote !

Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

They will remain locked for a while on some models. If this just happened, wait an hour or so after it is off and try again. Good luck.

Believe it or not, this is standard owens corning fiberglass wall insulation. It's rather inexpensive, and works great on these stoves. Just remove the outer shell, strip clean and replace it. I replace the insulation when grease, dirt and roaches build up and produce an odor.
You will be surprised how basic the disassembly is on these. Don't forget to do the oven door as well, it usually gets the most dirty over time.