Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If the cabinet is warm inside it is a failed circulation fan, failed defrost causing the evaporator to freeze up, or it needs a refrigerant gas top up. Beeping is just an alarm. It may be because of the more serious issues listed above but can also be caused by a failing door gasket, the door being left ajar (kids are famous for this) or the door has been left open too long deciding what to have for dinner. I hope that answers all 8 of you :>D Help here https://www.google.com/search?q=fisher+and+paykel+fridge+beeping+with+door+shut ..

sounds like the drain is blocked and maybe your element is not located correctly

either a shorted out relay which is connectrd to the side of the compressor or wirings inside the compressor have shorted out ,relay is easy to check its under a plastic box cover on the sideof the compressor,pull it off and have a look for any burn marks or smell even shake it to see if it sounds all broken up inside is only a small unit if good then its time for a new fridge

so what is your question

the model number you have provided is not enough detail to depict which product you have. The model number you have provided pertains to so many different models, as many start with that. Perhaps providing the product ID would certainly help those who are knowledgable to give the required answer. E522BR - 519L bottom mount with hinge on right. Not knowing what active smart version it is, as the display could be at the rear of the interior, on the frotn right hand side or on a display panel on the door

Hi, From thee sounds of your issue you will need a sensor or a fan motor to move air from one section to another. Most likely this would be a fan motor located within the freezer section either not running or air flow is obstructed and can't leave the freezer section to enter through passages to cool the other section. Locate the air ports within the refer section, open freezer door (is there air coming out of air port in this section?). Now, close door to freezer, (is the same air flow still there?). If not you have an air flow restriction and this would need to be addressed. Good Luck, hit me up if you have more questions I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

There is a reed switch that actuates the light, if it is faulty the fans will keep running when you open the door. If they do then it is a job for a service man, if they stop when you open the door then its either a wiring fault or you are fitting the bulb incorrectly, make sure the lamp goes all the way in & be gentle, also don't tough the glass with your fingers, use the plastic wrap it comes in to handle it. Good luck

It's alerting you to a fault, maybe a fan or a heater element etc. Call F&P customer care.

this is a long silver piece? it fits behind the plastic back panel of the freezer, the 'clover' shaped holes go onto a little plastic nib on the back of the freezer.it prevents heat from melting the back panel.

Hi,

if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.

thanks,

My ice maker makes about enough to fill 2" in bottom of tray then quits making ice, whats the problem I just got it two days ago

I would unplugg the machine for 5 minutes, plug back in again and close the freezer door, open fridge door and press the mode button

trn your thermostat right down see if that helps

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

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Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

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Normally all what is heard is HUM which needs one to listen. Hiowever is you experience a high noise then being a priviledge customer you need to get a consensus to your viewpoint as the fridge is covered with warranty.
Please check for SYMPATHETIC vibrations on the rear panel due to loose fitting which can happen with transportation.
Your observation is most important.
Thank you for using fixya.

Hello,

Please is the below product the actual make and model of your refrigerator?

Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

I look forward to your reply.

Bye for now.

fisher & paykel fridge not cooling and inside light stopped working

Ice maker stopped making ice. For this problem you have check few things. First thing, is the water filling in the ice maker chamber and then ice maker not making ice? Or, the water is not filling in the ice maker chamber so it's not making ice. If the water is not filling in the ice maker chamber then it's clear that ice is not getting made due to no water in the chamber. For no water filling, the problem is either water supply valve turned off so water is not filling. Turn on the water supply and it will fill. But if the water supply is turned on then the other possibility is ice blockage in the water fill tube. There is a tube from which the water runs and enters the ice maker chamber. If this tube is blocked then water will not enter the chamber. The tube needs to be defrosted, by using hair dryer. This procedure melts the ice collected in the tube and water starts running again. But if water fill tube is completely clear and no ice blockage or any other blockage. Then other possibility is water valve at the back of ice maker unit. This water valve is for letting the water in the ice maker. The water valve open only for 7 seconds and in this time the water fills in the ice maker chamber and then water valve closes and the same procedure runs again in the next water filling cycle.------- For your information I will mention that there are two valves. One is the main valve the back of the fridge section. This main valve lets the water enter the refrigerator and other valve is at the back of ice-maker section. This other valve lets the water to enter the ice maker. In most of the cases the fault is water valve at the back of ice maker section. ------------- The other above possibilities which I gave you is water not filling in ice-maker chamber so it's not making ice. But now consider that water is filling in ice maker chamber but it's still not making ice. Then the problem is ice maker unit itself. This unit is controlled by main board. But in most cases if water is filling the ice maker but it's not making ice then its faulty ice maker unit. So see if the problem is water not entering the ice maker then the water fill tube is frosted by ice or the water valve at the back of ice maker is faulty. Replace the valve. ------------

You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.

--------

This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

well you could try to unplug it for about 10 minutes or more to reset it. if not the door button has probably gone bad