20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

These are the cause of this fault

Drain pump is blocked.
· Drain hose is blocked.
· Sprayarm or rotor not turning
freely.
· Motor electronics have failed.
· Machine set to 'LP' on a high
pressure water supply.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

40 watts 110 volts

yes, should be 165

Good day

You freezer sounds like the self defrosting function has failed. If the evaporater coil freezes up, it gets really cold, but the air in the top of the freezer gets warm, so you could have stuff towards the top of the compartment melting, while the bottom is super cold. The heating element, thermal limit switch, or the timer could be bad. I am not particularly familiar with this model, but most have a little timer motor mounted behind the toe kick somewhere that contrlos the defrost intervals. The timer sends power through the thermal limit switch, located on the inlet tube of the evaporater (coils that get cold in the freezer) and keeps the heater from over heating. This part is probably the most common failure. From the switch, power goes to the heater element, which is mounted directly to the evaporater. If the heater looks kind of like a bake element style (similar to what you'd find in the bottom of your oven) then its probably not bad. If its a glass tube style, then they fail more commonly. Hope this helps, good luck! P.S. this could all have been caused by a door left slightly ajar overnight too...if you think that may have happened, then just turn it off and leave the door open for a day or 2...it'll defrost and be fine!

Hope I helped with the repair of your problem.
An Accept from you is how I get paid.
And a positive feed back tells me how I did with the repair.

Regards,
Arjun.

You can pop this switch out by prying on it with a butter knife under the switch housing. When you remove this switch you can purchase it at any appliance parts store. I hope this helps. Don't forget to rate my answer, thanks.

Sounds like the inside fan is getting worn out. Should vary in speed. Try replacing the fan and see if that fixes it. I'd bet it will. ken

Heya Helen,

On the old F n P fridges they use to use a 12v motor that was open shaft, there fore it wouldnt have a earth on it. Althou it can still over current. In lame mans turns I would say that it would be the compressor.

In terms of replacement, a new compressor in generally a third of what a new fridge cost. It would be a good idea if you didnt have the money for a new fridge but on that you dont get a warrenty. If you could get a domestic refrig tech out he would be able to quote on repairs.

Hope that helps

WARNING-It is a condition for the reader to take full responsability in attempting repairs and author shall not be responsible or liable for any damages. If you have no knowledge or experience to do this repair do not attempt it.

I have had the same issue with Fisher Paykel Active Smart fridge . This can be due to:
1) 12Volt fan in freezer is not functioning.
To test: open freezer door, place a magnet on magnet switch at the bottom of freezer where door seals(white plastic rectangle) It takes few seconds for fan to rev up so move magnet slowly until switch on. You can also close door and listen carefully if fan starts if unsure.
If fan works go to 2) 3)as defrosting resistance can be the trouble

2)If fan does not work . UNPLUG FRIDGE at the main plug
Empty freezer and defrost it if too icy (do not use sharp objects). Then on back panel you will see two holes on top. Put two hook tool and pull down and slightly forward until top lip is free. This is hard to do but the plastic panel is very strong so you can apply a bit of force there!!!
On the second panel is the fan, check wires are not broken (common cause of failure). unplug fan, you can check fan on 12V battery (+red). Buy a new fan if faulty and put freezer panel back.
3) If fan OK and you see a lot of ice on condenser (do not remove it by force, just let it melt completely) then the resistance is the cause of you trouble. It is delicate to remove and make sure FRIDGE IS UNPLUGGED! Do not force anything as condenser is very fragile and if you damaged it, your fridge can go straight to the dump. You can test the resistance with an Ohm meter to make sure internal resistance is broken or not. If broken replace it and your fridge will be fixed. If not broken then trouble is either with on board computer (very seldom) or the thermistance.

It would probably not be that useful to you. What is the equence of led you are experiencing

is the ice collection bin in the correct position? Is the icon displayed on the control panel to indicate the ice maker is on?
I hope this helps,

I had the same problem , you have to clean your freezer compartment out completely and take the covers off the inside back of the freezer being carefull not to break any wires, then defrost the cooling module by hand hot water towels messy job.
Make sure the cooling sensor is attached in the right spot and hasn't fallen down, it has a plastic holder it clicks into.
once clean and defrosted put back together and it will be fine...
Try not to put any frozen chip bags or peas etc right at the back of the freezer this causes the cooling system to freeze up.
How the system works it blows cold air from the freezer compartment down to the fridge to cool it and when the system freezes up no cold air to fridge ,hense the problem you are having...
If you are not confident in doing the job you can call a fisher and Paykel tech and they will charge you $150 to do the job.

close freezer door, open fridge door and press the mode button

Please advise where the dispenser is leaking? If it is dripping out the front of the door, then I suggest you run the water dispenser to flush about 3 liters of water. Does the noise stop when you open the fridge door?

I would reset the module. Open the fridge door, keep the freezer door closed, then press the mode button (located on the display panel. This will re initiate the electronics

My E521 does this too - it's because there is an air duct between the 2 compartments. That duct allows the fans to move air about.

I agree you'd think the freezer should remain shut at all times unless you really need to be in there

sounds like time for a service man

Is there a little fan back there with the compressor? if so is it turning? also check the outside coil, it may be covered with dust & crap. Sometimes that is all thet it takes. A good cleaning.

one of two faults first is the fan that blowscold air from the freezer ro the fridge is not working a very common fault with them or the defrost element has blown and the airway is choked up with ice

the defrost heater or thermostat located on the evaporator coil thats icing up isnt defrosting due to a bad heater or thermostat,or it can be the defrost timer that powers these other 2 parts