20 Most Recent Dayton (3E386) Heater Questions & Answers

I would check and see if the heat exchanger is not spilt and the blower on top is blowing out the pilot .Also clean pilot and check thermocouple .

Hi. There isn't a thermostat but there is a thermopile. For safety the system shuts down if while it is running, a flame isn't sensed. The heater is from the 80's. Does it have a lot of hours on it? Make sure there is plenty of fuel, air and fuel filter are ok and no visible fuel leaks. From your symptoms you may have a faulty ignitor or the thermopile may be coated or damaged. Sometimes gently rubbing the scale off the thermopile with fine emery cloth will correct shut down issues. Also fuel flow, fuel pressure and spray pattern is a possible cause. Let me know how you want to proceed or have other questions. Good Luck.

If you can only get 4 psi from the pump then you have a problem with the rotor. This could be from the vanes not coming out properly of if you have replaced or serviced the rotor you may not have the clearance set properly between the pump ring and the top of the rotor.
Make sure to inspect the pump cover for any small cracks..

If you pump pressure in not enough the unit will not be able to pull fuel from the tank and you will see the burner cone slowly start to go from the orange color to a dark color and the unit will shut down.

I have seen this before, you need to replace the nozzle.

On that motor there should be a thermal overload to shut motor off in the event that it gets to hot. There also should be a start capacitor and if it is getting weak that could account for the unit tripping the breaker if it is trying to draw to many amps on start up. I would start by replacing the capacitor with plan to install new motor soon.
You may be able to extend the life of your motor some by giving it and fan a good cleaning, Good luck and thank you.

undo pilot tube at base of pilot and remove jet inside and clean or blow in pilot jet with tube or can of air should work then

your best bet is to google the make and model , is there a pressure on it try jumping this out if it has one check rubber hose to it might be spit or just old

Try WW GRAINGER.com they carry datyon.

If you are pressing a small round switch with a tiny button in the center...means a bad heat exchanger. The heat from the exchangeris going where it is not supposed to and tripping a roll out switch. Have the exchanger checked for cracks or holes.....check vent pipe to make sure not plugged

THIS IS A BRAND MARKETED BY ETHER GRAINGER OR MC MASTER CARR. CHECK THEIR WEB SITES FOR PARTS AVAILABILITY. hard to tell what burnt out without having unit n front of me.

Call or Visit your authorized Dayton Dealer for service and conversion parts.

Thanks for your question.

The orifices have to be made smaller for propane. You have to go 10 drill bit sizes smaller. Also the air gap on them burners has to be tweaked. Primary air is added to the lp at the orifice. The gas/air mix has to be close or the nasty yellow smutty stuff happens. The gas valve needs to be set for LP gas pressure and the pilot orifices need to be changed. Nothing to it old man. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Dayton parts can be found at www.grainger.com

If you know a dealer or repair company,they can order orifices to change out in the unit.

Check your thermocoupling to make sure that it is sensing flame. You can tell if it is good or bad by the white on the tip of the flame sensor. The other problem would be a blocked or closed flue pipe. Make sure that the cap is not smashed down on the pipe on your roof

We have a Dayton Unit Heater in the garage, gas. the wiring is a mess do you have schematics?

The sensor for the thermostat is probably going bad or has bad connections. It is (or thinks it is) heating up fast and therefore shuts of the heater.

I assume this is a typical heater, with an on/off thermostat rather than temperature-dependent flame size controller. Make sure the burner is clean and the flame holes are not clogged. Also make sure the heat exchanger is clean, not loaded with ash or dust. Verify that you have adequate air supply to the heater (if the flame gets much larger when you have doors open all the way to the outdoors, you definitely have a problem, including a safety issue) and that the exhaust stack is not blocked. I've seen issues caused by bird or wasp nests in the vent plumbing. Check inlet gas pressure, and verify that the heater main gas valve is functioning. (If you have recently added another gas appliance, the piping may not permit adequate gas flow when both are running.) If you have your gas piped in from a utility company, you may have to ask them to verify adequate flow and pressure at the meter. Check the inlet to the gas valve to make sure it is not clogged with sediment (requires shutting off gas and removing the inlet plumbing from the valve).

Does not come on new motor won't heat up