Whirlpool Gold White-on-White 21.9 cu. ft. Conquest Side-By-Side Refrigerator with Ice and Water GD2SHAXLQ Side by Side Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
All,
Not sure if this is a solution to the issues we are experiencing.However, I called Electrolux (877-435-3287)
and spoke to a customer service rep (Peggy).
After I provided the information she stated that this is a
known issue and Electrolux has a fix in place.She is sending new parts out to me today and I will have to call
Electrolux back when I receive the parts to have a technician install the
parts.The parts they are sending are, A
Mister Exhaust System and a new Air Duct.
In addition, they are issuing me a check for $100.00 for the
damaged clothes (100 wont cover it, but I thought it was a nice gesture, maybe
you could get more).
Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAMFridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing TroubleshootingFridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
if you pull out the vegetable drawer, you will notice a vent on the left side in the back. get some tape ( I use aluminum tape ) and cover the bottom half of the vent, that will help keep your vegetables from freezing. that should solve your problem. Joe
Perhaps the water line has a twist or has been pinched. I believe you can re-install the filter. It's just probably going to be a little messy because it is now full of water.
Your water filter may need replacing.Also check where the water line is connected to water line under the sink,the valve there may be clogged up or need a new one.
Boris, we are sorry to hear that your Refrigerator is not cooling. We are not technicians, we do not have technical training, or technicians here in customer service. We can offer troubleshooting. Unfortunately, we do not have the provisions to assist you with detailed technical advice, provide repair manuals, tell you how to take it apart, or advise on which parts need to be changed to repair the unit. We do not offer repair assistance in customer service. If you are unable to resolve an issue on your own, we can only recommend service. If you would like for us to schedule service for you, can you please email us your address, phone number, the model and serial number, the website you were contacted on, Fixya, your review ID, and date of purchase to [email protected].
This can be caused by lots of faults first inspect the evaporator in the back of the freezer for ice build up if this is the case the defrost system has a fault, if not the unit that opens between the wall of the freezer and the fridge may be faulty check for the grills opening and closing
George Andraws, We would like to inquire further about your post with you. Please respond back to this email address [email protected] with your name, user id (George Andraws), phone number, street address, zip code, reviewer name, model & serial number, and date of purchase on the appliance.
I have a whirlpool side by side. water and ice in front. ice working and water not. the hose is not frozen and it is not humming when you push the water dispenser. It would give us water and quit but now we have nothing.
Not sure what "heating" indicator you are referring to, but if it is the humidity control, there is a switch on panel to turn it off. If you live in a warm, humid climate, you will want this switch left on.
I had this exact same problem. After a difficult removal of the ice bucket (admittedly a lot of yanking against frozen ice cubes before I decided to chisel them out from above), I could no longer seat the ice bucket back onto the hexagonal auger drive shaft. When activating the ice dispenser, I could hear the motor turning, but the auger shaft itself would not rotate. The cause was that the auger shaft had moved upward through its stop grommet during all of the yanking to remove the ice bucket.
Take off the two hex screws holding the top plate around the auger shaft. The shaft is then easily removable and you can inspect it for slippage against the stop grommet. In the attached photo, you can see there is about 1/2 inch of clean auger shaft visible above the grommet, where the shaft has slid upward relative to the grommet. If this is the case, the fix is simple. Turn the shaft upside down and lightly tap the grommet around the edges with a small hammer until it moves back into place. Upon replacing the auger shaft, you can feel it seat back into the drive motor adapter.
usually located on the bottom left side after u remove the covering u will see it, its not that difficult to do. u can also check the compressor and relay with a multi meter, by checking counting the rating placing 1 prong to the start and 1 to the run winding prong ( for example both may give a combined total 24 ohms) on the start and run windings, then check them separately by attaching 1 prong to the start and 1 to the common or center prong, count the rating, do the same for the run winding and the common count the rating, then add them up, they should equal the previous total of both run and start windings originally 24 ohms in our example though urs may be different? there is an allowance differential of give or take 5 percent as long as the count is close, if not u have a bad compressor, if u continually hear it want to start but fails, u then have bad relay
