20 Most Recent Whirlpool ED2SHAXM Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Probably a defrost problem especially with Ice around fan in freezer.

sounds like a bad starting capacitor ... thats about a 2 inch container mounted on or near the compressor .. it will have wires attached ... dont let the compressor keep cycling like that .. it will eventually damage the compressor and the refrigerator will quit working before long anyhow .. there is a little cooling now only because the compressor is successful at starting now an then but that wont last long ...unplug the unit until repairs are done .. move your food to another cooler .. the click you hear is the thermal overload switch shutting off the compressor power when it gets too hot .. the starting capacitors are not expensive and may have plug in electrical connectors that will make replacement easy .. it could be soldered in and that would make it a bit more difficult but usually there is a plug .. there will be numbers stamped on the capacitor .. thats what you need to get a replacement .. or you could remove it and take it with you to a parts supplier .. sometimes there are two capacitors in one container .. both have to be changed at the same time in that case (one for the compressor and one for the fan) ... there will be a part number and a value number .. the value might be something like "16 MFD " at 300VAC that gives you the value of the capacitor (not the phisical size) that example would be "16 micro farads" .. the 300VAC is the voltage rating
the part number gives you the size and mounting configuration as well as the value .. make sure the unit is UNPLUGGED before working on the capacitor .. if you call a refrigerator repairman then it should take him only about 15 min to replace the part if he has an equivalent part with him ... you could give him the model number of your frig and that you suspect the "starting capacitor" before he comes out ..so he can bring one with him ..

It is possible that everyone has looked up their models and all models fall under different categories. Now I will begin the search foe Melissa Wolf. Everyone go to this web page because to explain every different model will confuse.There are 13 categories of that model and only six are listed a refrigerators. I would choose the refrigerator categories to find pictures and models if you are not sure. And with all appliances this can be confusing. click link below and enter your model number and it will take you to the different category. Enter yours in model search. Have questions, just ask we are here to help.

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When you say buzzing sound is the sound coming from the back? If so either the relay overload in the compressor has gone bad or the compressor itself. The part number for that is going to be Pt# 8201786. Now if the sound is coming from the inside of the freezer something may be obstructing the evap. fan motor and not allowing air to circulate. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The most common problem I see with these is the water line that goes through the freezer and to the ice maker freezes up. Defrost the line and it should work again. If not you will need to replace the dual water inlet valve in the back of the refrigerator.

This is just a WAG but it doesn't sound like a compressor problem to me. The clicking could be the start relay, which could be a combination of either the start relay or start capacitor.

The vibration and banging is probably the shock mounts that the compressor are mounted to the cabinet frame with. Although rare, if the screws come loose the compressor will slowly destroy the rubber grommet shock mounts. If you are missing even one grommet (need four) then it will vibrate and rattle. If two screws are loose then it will allow it to vibrate and rattle also.

All bets are off if the compressor is very hot to the touch! Then it probably is the compressor.

push colored rings toward white collar while pulling hose from coupling

Hi

Check the freezer to ensure it isn't over loaded with food stuff; reason being air must flow freely threw out the entire refrigerator in order for the thermostat to work correctly. You should also check the coils on the rear of the refrigerator and make sure they are clean and dust free. If you still have problems after trying the above; you may need to call a repair service to come out and check the unit.

Please check this links to get a detailed idea as to why your unit is not cooling:-

http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/refrigerator-not-cooling.html

http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

You might have bumped the connector for the fan. yes you have to have the fan if the compressor is running, if not you will distroy the compressor.

hi, A clogged ice maker is a result of a problem with the supply water or ice that has built up on the mechanism. Check the filter in a refrigerator when repairing an ice maker with help from a home repair specialist.
here i m giving a link also ,at this link you will se a video, link:- http://www.diychatroom.com/content/how-to-repair-a-clogged-ice-maker_cd4d6451-ac9e-aaf0-eedf-173e10b12920/
If not found the problem then call the nearest service center,but first follow the above gudieline. this will be helpful to you, please don't forget to vote me.
goodluck

Greetings,
The first thing to check is are all the fans running? there is one in the freezer and usually one in the rear compressor compartment...the next thing to check if fans are operating is: remove rear freezer panel and see if ice or frost is blocking the air thru the freezer coil...if there is ice blocking the airflow. defrost the coil using a hair dryer.. the fresh food section gets cold air from the freezer..its blown over into top of refrigeration via a fan...it goes thru a baffle into refrigerator...this baffle sometimes will not open...This is one place you check for air coming into refrigerator...so, check here also before you take it apart. there should be a noticable amount of airflow....if not, remove the cover and work a small wooden dowel or skewer into the slot and open the vent..this will allow air to go into refrig section...the skewer can be left in there to keep it working if this is it...getting back to a frosted evap...if it is froze up..there is a derfost problem and defrosting will give you temp service until you can get it repaired......Bruce Denton

Replace the rubber O-RING gasket

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

I suspect by your description the fridge either has a faulty overload protector or the compressor itself is seized. Hence when the overload reset's the fan starts ( as it should when the compressor runs ) however the overload then trips and the fan stops while the compressor never starts, thus not cooling.

If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ll try to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician.

I don`t know the age of your fridge, but I should mention...

** Most of the Whirlpool fridges have 5 to 10 years sealed system warranty which would include the compressor but not the electrical starting devices i.e., the overload & relay. Check your owners manual, it is the ultimate authority on warranty no matter what anyone else tells you according to Whirlpool/Maytag/Amana.**


If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok.

**First, Unplug the fridge**

Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor.

On the side of the compressor will be the start relay/overload assembly such as this image...it may be enclosed in a black plastic cover as well.


Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...


With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.

You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.

On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good !

If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.

i.e.



The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it. HOTE : the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" in should not be relide on for long term reliability or safety, but rather the factory replacemnet part 8201786... i.e. The above start device kit contains instructions on "how to" install kit. Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the reply and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa.

Thank you and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)