20 Most Recent KitchenAid KHMS2050SSS Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Its possible it may need a rest or something biut see this video: More links:

I am glad to hear someone else is having the same issue we are. We've been dealing with this for about a year. We've called Kitchenaid numerous times and they say they seem shocked as if no one else has this issue. Thanks to all who suggested how to fix this and we'll give it a try.

KitchenAid Appliance Fault Codes - PartSelect

www.partselect.com/JustForFun/Kitchen-Aid-Appliance-Fault-Codes.aspx Fault codes for a number of KitchenAid appliances, including two and four digit codesfor ... F9 - Oven Door Lock Failure - Check door lock switches and wiring.

The magnetron is supposed to read nearly zero ohms across the two terminals. You are measuring the resistance of the filiament/heater/cathode of the tube. Activity in the magnetron occurs when the heated electrons are emitted from the cathode, pass through the magnetic field, swirl about, bounce in and out of indentations (vanes) in the tube, and finally land on the plate (antenna). The resistance from the cathode to the plate should be infinite. If not, you probably have a bad tube. Or, if there is continuity between the heater and the case, then you have a shorted tube.

What eventually happens to most vacuum tubes is that the cathode (filiament in this case) becomes coated with a material which inhibits the launching of electrons into the tube. When the flow becomes too low, oscillation ceases, and you have no microwave output. Sometimes they reach the threshold, but do no cross over quickly. Then you have a magnetron that is intermittent for a while. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

behind door their is trim round the door use flat knife go between the trim will pop out and open 2 sc

I had an arcing sound coming from above the cardboard panel inside the microwave. When I saw it sparking I took the cover off and saw that these two aluminum looking things had come loose. I removed the cover and did a fair bit of 'fine tuning' to get it working again.

To remove the door, you must first remove the top and side cover. There are screws on the back side of the cover. After the screws are removed the cover should slid to the back and lift off. the door hinges should then be visible. Some more disassembly my be required to access the hinge fasteners. If this is a built in oven you mist first remove the trim kit so that you can remove the oven form the cabinet.

my microwave did not have a fuse. are you sure it is not a switch?

no problem both wires are inter faced also working

The main fuse is inside the cabinet near where the power cord enters. When everything goes dead all of a sudden, 99.9% of the time it's the fuse. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

Most likely it's an electronic failure of the main circuit board. Although extremely unlikely, I have seen an oven or two that have had these symptoms that were caused by an insect walking on the back of the circuit board. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

It sounds like a fuse. With the door fuse blown it will cause the microwave to not operate all all. It is a small thing to swap over. Its a bit like a car fuse. There will be a few different ones but all have a different purpose. Not sure if you are handy or a local electrical handyman can do the job.