Samsung RB215LASH - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved from Ovens to Samsung RB category. Check out the video. You just swap one side to the other. https://www.google.com/search?q=samsung+rb215acpn+reverse+door+open ..

I would guess that the doors are not sealing properly. They have gaskets (seals) that can get brittle or damaged. If these leak air, you will build up water on the fridge side and ice on the freezer side. Or is someone not closing the doors well?

The self defrost mechanism is not working - check the defrost timer, defrost heater and defrost thermostat for proper operation.

Is water going to ice maker? Is itaking ice at all

Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

Hello Sylvia; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service technician. You need to unplug the sensor. Place the bulb in a glass of ice water. After 10 minutes, Set you multi-meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol), touch the meter leads together you should get a reading of '1.0' or 'OL' the connector has two plugin ports, with one meter probe on the one port and the other probe in the other port, you should get a reading of 16 Ohms. You have three sensors, one for the freezer, one for the evaporator coil and one for the freezer: You have two defrost heaters they are part of the drain assemblies: Once again, set your meter on the lowest Ohms. Put one contact in one connector port and the other lead in the other connector port, If you get a reading of '0' or infinity the heater is bad. If it is good you should get some reading 25 to 150 Ohms. All of these components are behind the back fresh food section and freezer wall. I am sorry you bought a Samsung. 65% of all of my service calls were either Samsung or LG.

ahhh your drain holes are blocked up there is two pipes one comes from the V shape at the back of the fridge near the bottom there is a hole this pipe needs cleaned out and also in the freezer compartment there is one at the back is a panel usually has 4 or 6 screws or plastic clips take all the stuff out and put to another fridge remove the back panel {screw driver or the right tool like side cutters will remove the clips if it has clips most have a cap remove the cap then the screws and check the fan is working {by hand} rotates free make sure the V shape drain system is clean and clear once clean add some salt here and no ice if there is ice let it all thaw now put on the unit again with the panel off watch out it may have a sensor mounted too it so be carefull of any wires and see if the fan spins if it does nice one turn it off and put the freezer back panel one and secure it etc and your ready to give it a clean i use thin bleech and water 5% solution and then some plates of house salt to get rid of the bleechy smell from it so make sure the back is all clear of stuff and atleast 5" from the wall for good ventilation and turn it on set your temps and wait 20 mins then open the freezer you should have rolling vapors from it and your top fridge back wall should be chilled may take a bit longer but 20 mins is a good guide

You'll sadly find that there is either a leak or low pressure in the gas , or the pump is failing.

Tip it over.

That is very good. Must be fun.

This may be a temperature sensor problem on the ice maker. Check for broken wires or sensor fallen off.

most likely a bad bearing on the freezer fan motor. not always the exact time but pretty regular and the same sound. replace you fan motor.

The fridge (on/off) is actually regulated by the thermostat in the refrigerator section. If the door leaks, it will force the compressor on too often. Otherwise, there is a port where the cold air is delivered (near ice cubes) -try (partially) blocking it with tape

yes, but it is possible to remove

Do you see any ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer?

ensure that the vents in the back are not blocked with dust/hair

is the condensor fan operating back in the lower area by the compressor,if not the compressor will cycle from heat and you will have fluctuating temps

When water is leaking inside of your refrigerator, the problem could be as simple as condensation from humidity or a worn gasket, especially since you purchased your refrigerator used. The problem could also be a clogged drain or frozen evaporator.To help you determine the problem, along with solutions that you can use, check out Refrigerator leaking water inside for some simple troubleshooting steps. I hope that helps!