Amana NAV2330AW Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Pull drain plug at bottom of machine put tray under it check belt

Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for " If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity

Your problem is the tub seal has failed and will need to be replaced.Here is a link to the kit you will need.

Either the lid switch or a lid switch component has most like failed. SERVICE MANUALPage 8 shows how to check it. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello,

Firstly i want to apoligize for the quesionable advice,some on here or elsewhere on the net fixed their washer and suddenly their are experts!!
Now Then as you know your washer is made by Amana/Speed Queen and has no agitator dogs(a quick search of parts breakdown will show anybody that) it also has no spin tube (aka basket drive),the brake pads which it does have would squeal only when washer stops spinning if they were bad just like squalling brakes on or vehicle the are quite till applied if bad,what the most likely cause of the noise is going to be the tub bearing,it is on the bottom of the outer tub. The inner and outer tub must be removed,it is advisable if replacing the tub bearing that you also replace the tub seal since it may not seal correctly once taken apart and leak badly.The hub taht connect inner tub to transmission must be removed so ya can remove the outer tub it requires a special wrench which is not to expensive but nothing else will work. IF ya want to go ahead and repair this the part numbers are;
TUB BEARING 40004201P
TUB SEAL 35-5655-1
SPANNER WRENCH 306P4

PROCESS TO REPLACE BEARING;
unplug power
remove front panels
remove screws holding top to cabinet
remove plastic tub cover by down slightly and lift tabs
remove agitator
remove bolts from hub under agitator and remove inner tub
use that spanner wrench and a hammer on nut on hub and remove nut in counterclockwise direction by hitting wrench w/hammer
lift off hub
remove rubber tub seal
remove all springs from outer tub by locking on vise grips and pull springs off
remove bolts holding outer tub to the to tub support
pull off outer tub and set down so bottom is facing up
remove old bearing and install new old
reassamble in reverse order

this is a link for parts breakdown http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-NAV2330AWW/1268/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=NAV2330AWW

to order parts order from sears or for a cheaper price by a little rearsch from
apdepot.com
assuredparts.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Good luck, if you have any question reply and ask away.
Gene

You won't know until you do some inspection. Use this service manual as a guide. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Cannot promise but try the following --------->

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. Many washers will not complete cycles if there is water still in them.

Here are my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the filter and the motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Yes the transmission is the only place for oil to come from. There are rebuild kits availabe if your mechanically inclined and can do this work yourself, if not you need to call a technician.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

there are many more likely causes for this fault. The program will stick if the heater isn't working, if the thermostat fails, if it can't fill up with cold water for the rinses, if it can't empty the water etc. There are too many possible causes of this fault to be able to give anything other than rudimentary advice. However, the common causes of a washing machine sticking that can easily be fixed are filling and emptying problems.

Check that the cold water supply is available to the washing machine, which is a common cause for sticking on rinses.
The most common cause of a washing machine not taking any water in is either a kinked fill hose or the tap becoming faulty whereby you switch it on but the valve inside doesn't turn. Another common cause is the tap getting accidentally switched off and people not realising. Other causes can be wiring faults, water valve faults or programme control faults. This advice was originally written when most washing machines were hot and cold fill and didn't have error codes. It's now been updated to reflect the fact that these days the vast majority of washing machines are cold fill only and should give an error code if they can't take in water.
If your washing machine is stuck full of water the water needs to be drained out and this article gives tips on how to do this. If the entire washing machine has gone dead leaving the machine full of water it may be worth checking that it isn't something as simple as a blown fuse ( Washing machine is dead, wont start ) in which case if you get the washer going again it should pump the water out itself.

If the washing machine appears to be functioning normally but simply won't pump away the water then the possible causes (in the most likely order) are a blockage somewhere, a pump failure, or an electrical fault stopping the pump from running.

Blockages are the more likely explanation, but pumps can fail.

You need a seal kit for your washer. This is a pretty labor intensive job to replace the seals on this particular machine. Here is a link to the parts page for your machine.

There are many things you need to check to find the cause of the issue. You can start by removing the belt from the motor and try letting it run without it. Try to move the pulsator with your hand and feel it if there's something stuck.Do that at the bottom of the washer where the belt is connected to see if it's free moving. Of course the motor should run freely since we've taken out the load. If the motor is not running, replace it. If it's slow, it may be a defective capacitor. Therefore, replace it.

Hope this helps.

**DISCLAIMER**
Do not attempt to do this if you don't know what you're doing since we're dealing with high-voltages which might result to electricution and/or death. We won't be liable for any injury or damage that may happen to you or the unit. You have been warned.

Hello,

Yep, it sounds like your water valves are leaking. By turning either the hot or cold off at the faucet itself, you should be able to identify which one is the culprit. Then you might be able to replace only that one valve, if they are separate units (most are not).

You also might try soaking the valve in CLR or vinegar, but only the portion that normally has water exposted to it (not the wiring or the coils). It will not be a permanent fix, but it will help stop the leak until you can get a replacement ordered.

you will need to unhook the belt from the transmission pulley and then take out the 3 screws running up from the bottom of the pump that runs into the motor support and drop off the pump ,,, the easies is to remove the 4 screws holding the motor support in place and set the motor and pump out to remove the pump and swap the belt

Move the washer out from the wall so you can remove the back. You may need another person to help move it because it is full of clothes and water. It would be easier to take the wet clothes out and put them in a pail or nearby laundry sink and then try to bail or pump the water out. It will be a messy operation, but easier in the long run.

Remove the back of the washer. Use screw drivers, nut drivers or hex head wrenches to remove the screws or fasteners on the back casing of the washer. Don't forget to unplug the washer from the electrical socket first. If it is a gas dryer, remove the hose from the gas line and temporarily cap off the line at the wall. Be very careful with gas lines and be sure they are capped off securely.

Find the belt. Belts are usually easy to find. They look much like fan belts in cars or belts in vacuum cleaners. A damaged one will be easy to spot. It will be broken altogether or so loose from wear that it does not grab the pulley and turn the washer drum.

Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket. Use a crescent wrench for this job. In a pinch a pair of pliers may do. Move the motor to put slack in the belt. Even if the belt is broken, you will still need to move the motor to install the new belt.

Remove the old belt. Stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Put tension on the new belt by using a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. Leave about 1/2-inch of slack when you press it in the center. If it is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys. If it is too tight, it wears quickly and may start to smoke or burn.

While you are in there tighten the pulleys by checking and tightening set screws all around the pulley hub. You may forestall another problem in the future by taking care of pulleys now while it is convenient.

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022937.pdf
Above is your service and repair manual.

Sounds like the spin bearing in the transmission has gone bad. These are usually not worth repairing for the costs involved.

triple seal bearing is damaged

Yes the vbelt (part# 27001007 )could be worn, as could the idler roller (#40045001 ) , and arm (#27001028).
However if you find traces of oil as in motor oil your gearbox/transmission is leaking and you may as well start searching for a new unit as the transmission is around $230 and not a quick/easy chore to change..
best of luck, have fun,
ttfn

The pump is connected to the motor with a torx or star bit. I believe it is a T20 size. Unplug the washer and be careful as some of these washers have a capacitor that can shock you very badly. The easiest way to get to it is; remove the belt from the drive pully remove the 4 bolts holding the motor to the washer and turn the motor bottom towards you. Then remove the 3 torz screws from the pump and the pump then pulls off of the motor shaft. Look at the location of the belt for reference before removing the pump. reassemble and you are back in business.
Thank you
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Water pump may be leaking. Check idle pulley and big counterweight spring that stedies the drum. Go to www.appliancepartspros.com for a diagram. Have model number ready.

depending on how handy you are, replacement of the brake pads can be a real pain. As an experienced technician I specialized in Amana/Speed Queen for a while. I recommend you call a service man to replace the brakes. Its worth your while and your fingers.