20 Most Recent Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air Conditioner - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Yes. Heat pumps have to go into defrost just like a freezer when the temp gets too cold outside. The heat pump will temper the indoor air electric heat.

http://www.dnmech.com/lit/RT6331003.pdf
try this web site. I believe this is the manual you are looking for.

Hope this helps.

you need to replace the main comp board.one piece in the board is burned out

need to programe the comp board on unit for heat and cool mode

clean the coils inside and out should help--might be alot of moisture in apt unit

theunit is in freeze protection.what you need to do is hold the t-stat buld to bring the temp up and it will come back on shortly.dont unplug the unit.when it gets to cald it goes into freeze protection so pipes in house dont freeze

I was wondering the same thing about our unit until I found the specs online and read that it has freeze protection. When the temp goes below 40 degrees, the fan comes on to prevent damage to the unit.

Hi; If the fan comes on and there is no heat. First I am guessing this unit has touch pad instead of the old fasion push button selector. If unit has touch pad then I would check for a clean filter first. Then this unit is equiped with safety features for the compressor as well as the heat strips.If You are spiffy with a test meter and hand tools You can check for any burnt or loose connections(with unit unpluged from recepticle). If all seems well a connected please for the love of GOD call a repairman. The reason being checking safety features is a job You dont want to tackle without honned skills.

A heat pump starts losing efficiency below 30F or so. The aux. heat helps the heat pump keep up with heat demand. The Aux heat can be electric heat strips or another type of heat. Check to make sure you have power to whatever type of aux heat you have (breaker not tripped, no overloads tripped). If it is electric heat check the heat strips to make sure they haven't burnt in to. Hope this helps.

Are you trying to heat a house larger than 600 square feet? I think that your unit is to small.

Most PTAC's have a reset on the power cord where the plug is. If this doesn't help I can find out. The new boards are a little tricky. Is this model touch pad or knobs?

Your thermostat can get power from either of two power souces. Primary power would be 24 VAC from a transformer mounted inside your air handler. Second (optional) power may be provided from battery backup, with the batteries mounted inside the thermostat itself.

Since your display went completely blank, then I would venture to guess that it is related to the 24 VAC circuit, sourced from the air handler. You probably do not have battery back up. Use a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to measure the RED wire connected to your thermostat. Make sure to use the VAC setting on the DVOM.

The "hot" side is the red wire, and will be connected to the "R" terminal in your thermostat. The Common side will be connected to most likely a blue, a black, or a brown wire. The Common terminal will be labeled "C" (but perhaps B) on your thermostat.

Since the thermostat is just plain dead you should next locate and check the fuse or breaker for the air handler control circuitry. There may be multiple different breakers/fuses for your heat pump's outdoor circuitry, its indoor controls, and its indoor resistive heat strips. Also, the circuit could be either 120 VAC or 240 VAC. Has one of them tripped or blown a fuse?

If you have breakers, then flip all of your breakers off and then back on. Stay near the breaker box and wait for a minute, listening/looking to see if any breaker has tripped or if a fuse has blown. Otherwise, if the circuit is fused, then examine or test the fuse. Again, use your DVOM, this time in the Ohms setting. Zero Ohms indicate the fuse is good. A very high Ohms reading is a blown fuse (infinite resistance) In this case, verify that the blown fuse is the CORRECT value. Maybe it isn't. Replace it with the correct amperage fuse. Again, wait a few moments and see if it the new fuse blows.

If either the new fuse immediately blows, or if the flipped breaker immediately trips, then STOP and call a professional. You have a high-power wiring problem. Call around, and find an expert. It could be that a mouse chewed thru some insullation. You don't know, but don't be sold on replacing an expensive component without verifiable proof of the source of the problem.

Otherwise, go back and check your 24 VAC "R" Red terminal at the thermostat. If it reads 24VAC hot now, then you have solved the problem, at least temporarily. You now need to know why the breaker tripped or the fuse blew.

If the circuit is on a breaker, then just replace it. They really do go bad after a while. Pop the old breaker out and bring it with you to the hardware store. Replace it with the correct brand, amperage, and configuration.

If the circuit was on a fuse, then (a) was it really the correct amperage rating? or (b) is there a chance that you had a hit from the power company or a nearby lightening strike? (probably not, or some of your computer/stereo/other stuff would have been knocked out too.)

Otherwise, you know the source circuits are good, and you know you don't have 24VAC at the "R" terminal of your thermostat. There are now more possibile causes.... to be continued. Marty

We says the outside can pull heat out of 40* air, below this change to emergency heat or it should do this with the thermostat on its own.

Just pull unit out and take a look could be something in ther fan. Or the fan is hitting something. There is no lube fittings on that unit. Rus

The 2H/1C is one stage cooling two heating. Is it s touch screen or not. I mean no buttons. If not go to mode setting. Push mode till you get to heat not emerency heat abd then set temp. Keep in touch. Rus

its a heatpump and will ice up, it will also defrost itself ,if it doesnt then you have a problem. it ices up beacuse the coil temp is below 32 and any moisture in the outdoor air will freeze on the coil

When cleaning the unit make sure to clean out the inside and outside parts. See if that makes a difference since you already had the board replaced. New heat pumps would use the difference in air flow in the outside coils as measurement when to activate. Check also for debris that may hinder airflow. Also the temp and dampness (vs the inside of the house) of the outside unit may affect its performance.

You probably have a bad coil on the reversing valve

You could have a high limit switch that has gone out or the heating element itself has burnt out. Both the heating element and high limit switch needs to be checked by a a/c tech due to both the location and the tools needed for the checks. The high limit switch is a safety device that prevents the unit from heating too much and possibly cause a fire. The possible cause for both of these problems is a blkockage of air flow through the system ( i.e. dirty filter, debris in the condensor coils) Good Luck on your repairs hope this has helped you some

Dave