20 Most Recent Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air Conditioner - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Outside temp too low, so outside thermostat and it's settings will not allow the heat pump to work. But insist on the ausilary heat to work instead. Heat pumps usually do not produce enough heat when below 40F outside temp. If you have Gas heat, it may be more economical than the heat pump below 40F. If electric auxilarry heat, it may compete at 32F. Talk to your dealer, installer, or manufacture.

could be a relay or a board isue

A bit more info would help - like "nothing as in switched off" or "nothing as in motors all running but nothing gets hot". If you mean that it all sounds and looks as though it is working but there is no heat, then it is possible your changeover valve is jammed. There is usually a four way valve which effectively decides which way your a/c is going to be pumping. Other reasons are that on this model, it checks to make sure there is at least a 5C difference before it will try and work. For more help, please be a bit more descriptive as to what it IS doing as well as what it is not - eg: fans / compressor on? strange noises, hissing / error messages and also indoor / outdoor temps

seems like 1995 3.5 ton unit

These codes signify black (F1) or yellow (F6) thermistor problems. May need replaced.

the thermostat sub base has a place to connect a wire usually white to energize the heat strips when you push the stat way hotter than the house temp. that is why the strips come on in normal heat. it also has a terminal that is only energized in emergency heat and it also should have a wire connected to it so that terminal can supply power to the strips when the stat is switched into emerg heat . you can identify the terminal from the wiring diagram and if need be jumper w2 wire over to the aux terminal and it will work. they both go back into the airhandler and power the same strips. w2..................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips or w2...jumper to aux......................................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips.

Don't know how long you have had a heat pump but thats the nature of them in colder weather. Some people prefer to switch to "emergency heat" on the t-stat when temps fall below 20 or 25 degrees. This bypasses the heat pump and allows your back-up heat to heat the house. If your house is total electric your emergency heat is an electric furnace and it should handle the load if it was sized properly. Don't leave it on emergency when it warms up because your heat pump is much cheaper to operate than the furnace. As always, check your air filter since it can restrict the amount of air that moves thru the furnace, which is critical. Hope this helps

Bad capacitor

Something sounds funny here. Sounds like the compressor is bypassing and going out on its internal overload. Has the high pressure switch been bypassed? Is the evaporator coil in the house blocked with dirt? You might want to check the filter. During the summer did you have the a/c serviced and gas added? It might be overcharged. Make sure your registers are all open. Check valves or reversing valve replacement would be at the bottom of the possibility list but in the end you may have to get a hands on guy to find the problem. Hope this helped good luck.

Sounds like you need a new control board.

Clean the condenser & check the Freon levels

could be a bad run capacitor or the unit needs to be cleaned take it outside and wash the condenser coil the outside coil and the evap coil on the inside be careful not to get the electric circuits inside the unit wet. I would wash the coils first and then see if it cools. Hope this helps

If this unit has the old style control with the knob instead of the digital control panel
then I would suspect this first. This is the first component to fail on these units. I have
replaced two already and the kit has good instructions and all components.
Takes approximately an hour to do and mount the new sensors. (The transformer is
hidden beneath the sheetmetal just below the control board). You should be able to order this kit through any appliance parts store for around 175 dollars versus almost
800 dollars for a new PTAC. Hope this is helpful.