20 Most Recent Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

replace control and drain pump

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
The spinning action does not drain the water, the drain motor does- when and if it can!
Many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and general guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
Proviso
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi, there are a number of reasons why this type of washing machine won't turn on, but it's typically due to a lack of power somewhere along the lines. First, make sure that the washer is plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't been thrown. Many homes have more than one breaker devoted to the washer and drier, so there may be more than one that you'll have to look for. If nothing is wrong here, check the outlet into which the cord is plugged by using a working appliance like a lamp. If the outlet works, then look at the washer's power cord for signs of melting, heat damage or a break in the cord. Open the washer lid and locate the cutoff switch sticking up from the lip of the machine. Press it in; you should hear a click. If you don't, then the cutoff switch is broken and needs to be replaced or repaired.

Hi dan, in all probability it is your inlet solinoid valve, due to high sediment build up in the main water supply can cause the inner diaphragm of the inlet solinoid valve to clog up and stick. you can pick up a new inlet valve anywhere from $25-$60 depending on the appliance spare parts outlet. If you produce your model number with the name of the machine to the spareparts store they will easily be able assist in your matter, even better supplying the spareparts store with the inlet solinoid from the machine, thumbs up if this helps thanks.

Here is the fault code and diagnostic for that condition.
(10000010) Phase 1 to 6 Single Rotor Position Sensor Error The Motor Controller has found an error in the pattern received from the Rotor Position Sensor. Likely causes of this fault are a bad connection on the harness between the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller, or a faulty Rotor Position Sensor. Primary Source: Wiring. Action: 1) Check for corrosion on the edge connector of the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller module connector. 2) Check the contacts on the rotor positional sensor end of the hall harness to see if any have been damaged. (Each set of contacts in the socket has two wipers. If the distance between these wipers varies between different contacts, replace the rotor positional sensor harness). Secondary Source: Rotor Position Sensor. Action: Check the Rotor Position Sensor with an R.P.S. tester. Replace if faulty. Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module. Action: Replace Motor Controller module.

Same thing happened to mine. There's a really simple solution: Lay the unit on it's back or lean it far enough back to have access. The pump is near the front and has a black fan blade on the bottom. Remove the electrical plug on the motor; it just pulls right off. Now look for a white plastic retaining lever near the top of the pump. Hold it out and turn the pump about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise, then it almost falls out. I found a safety pin inside that was causing my noise. Went back together just as easily. Problem solved!!!

There is a technical data sheet inside the washer cabinet that should list all the error codes and detailed troubleshooting information. To access, you need to lift the top panel. There should be a screw located under plastic cover plate on each side that you need to remove in order to lift the top panel. Once the panel is lifted, the tech sheet should be sealed in plastic along one of the interior cabinet walls. I hope this helps you.

Hi just read your fault.Now from the information in your posting the lights that are on when the machine is beeping are the 3,4 and 8th lights.Now these lights are in a row of 8 lights and you started from the left.So from left to right the lights that are lit when the machine is beeping are 3,4,and 8.Is this correct?If it is correct then the fault on your machine is called COLD VALVE FAULT.The 3 reasons why this fault occurs is, 1st the wiring to the water valves is faulty,the 2nd is the cold water valve is faulty, or 3rd the control module is faulty.Have you or can you borrow an electrical test meter so I can help you narrow down which is causing the fault.Please reply with additional information on the questions and I can help you rectify this fault.Looking forward to your reply.

yu should go ahead and check the pump chances are there is a sock or something else stuck in there keeping it from draining...its right on the bottom of the washer

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
Here are my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking filters and motors ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hello,

unplug the unit for 30 seconds, if the glitch does not clear the main control will need to be replaced. let me know if you have any more questions.

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

i from retired Englishman in SW France

Just in case it is a bit off balance here are my general guidance notes to correct it ;-0)
-------------------------------------------------
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly!
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning.

Good luck,

John C

How is the water pressure? When it fills, is it different then before?

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I think you are referring to the manufacturer's troubleshooting tips 'cos we are just ordinary guys and gals from many places in the world hoping to help by posting possible/probable solutions to those raising problem tickets. Sorry but I do not know what the actual tips you followed are/were!

As it happens it is easy to remove the water from the drum; you just need to carry out the clean drain motor lint tray/filter actions which follow. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and the motor is unable to drain some or all of the water in its allotted time.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER!
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel and held in by a round cover/knob.
Once the filter is removed (this is when the water will flood out of course) it can be thoroughly cleaned. At this point it is normally possible to see the pump and ensure it can run freely by the use of a hand/finger.
With the filter still out you can also check that the pump works by powering the washer back on, no clothes and no water in the drum, and select a spin. At some point in the spin cycle the pump should operate. If it doesn't, having already confirmed that it would be free to turn and that it is not jammed, the pump is probably malfunctioning. I would suspect this more than the control panel.

It is always worthwhile checking the filter on a regular basis- it's amazing what people have found!.

Hope this is the problem and good luck!
John C

Sorry about your Steelers.

I am currently pulling my washer apart again. This is the third time in about 5 years. Twice before I found pennies in the short black tube between the pump and the gray divert valve. I call it my 31 cent problem as the first time it was three dimes and a penny. I recommend turning the pump by hand. If it is turning freely, then I would squeeze the hose to see if you can feel anything inside. The tube is easy to remove and check as well, but any water is going to drain out on your floor. In my case I did not find any issue, put it all back together and it is running fine. Cross your fingers for me.

Hello reg.... when this happens it is almost always the transmission. This is a costly part and a costly repair. As a result, in most instances the owner chooses a replacement over a repair. Joe

If not powering up fuse in motor controller likely blown.