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GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers
Ge WPRE6100G will not spin automatically but it will manually
I just had the same problem with my 2 yr old GE toploader and on mine the problem was a small hose plugged with lint and soap slime leading to the pressure switch. On mine I removed the control panel by removing the top (3) screws in the back of the washer then the face of the whole control panel slides to the right about an inch (MAKE SURE WASHER IS UNPLUGGED ! ) and the panel will pull away being carefull not to unplug any wires on the back of the of the panel. Mine had a plastic hose hooked to the pressure switch on the load size knob just pull the hose off and try blowing thru it if you can't that should be your problem blow it clear. What happens is to spin out the washer get a signal from that pressure switch telling it all the water has pumped out and its ok to spin if it is plugged the washer thinks water is still in the tub and wont spin out.
Hope this helps.
Chipb1
Will not agaite
there is a round rubber type clutch that is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded, such as a large comforter. its located between the motor and the transmission. easy to find when washer is turned upside down. part cost about $13
GE Front load washer WBVHB240EWW. Approx 5 years
The clothes are wet after spinning
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
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