20 Most Recent Technics SL-1200 Turntable - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I DIDN'T BUT I HAVE NO MORE TIME TO DO THIS NOW. THANK YOU

No! I meant trying another wall outlet. If you do not have a meter to check the power then try another plug. The motor will usually have some hum or noise if there is power to the motor. Steve

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102978

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102977

What you need is one of each of the RCA Y-adaptors like at the above links. Radio shack probably has non-gold cheaper ones in the store. on the one that is radio shack model #42-2608 hook the two 'female' connectors to your turntable's red n white RCA outputs. then take the radio shack model 42-2609 and hook the two 'male' connectors to your serato. finally connect the two Y-adaptors together in the middle! This merges both channel but keeps them both equally going into your serato so that no actual musical info is lost.

this one happend to me!! try taking the plastic cover off, under the platter and removing the screws that hold it on if that cures it its because what you ll find is that the screws just catch the underneath of the platter as it rotates. happy mixing

X1N may I suggest a few drops of mineral oil, the bottlels you find in the local grocer store. Once applied let soak for mabe 2 to 3 hours. Wipe or sponge away oxidation. The soaking may take longer. View the working one very closely to compare to the troubled one. The controls may accepte repositioning to the correct position now. If you got the guts study the assembley and make notes of you disassembley procedure, the problem may just need some realignment internally. I hope this helped.

Not sure I understand what you need done. The 1200 has a pitch control, which allows you to control it's speed. Do you want to disable the 33/45rpm function, and assign that to the pitch control, so instead of controlling pitch, you control the RPM? This will put quite a strain on the drive circuits of this unit, but it can be done. Although, not an easy modification, as you will have to modify multiple resistors and IC's on the main board. This should only be professionally done.

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You more than likely have to have the pitch control replaced or cleaned.

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There is no face plate. Do you mean the actual grey cabinet? This is not easy to remove, as everything on the turntable is attached to the cabinet. So, you will have take apart the entire turntable in order to do this.

You can view a video on this sort of repair - TECHNICS REPAIR
VIDEO
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Need the model number. Technics released over 100 turntables between 1970-1990 - so a model number would help us in determining what you need.

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You have to have the pitch control cleaned or replaced.

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If you've already replaced the RCA /Phono cables, then the only other item that would cause this kind of problem is your tonearm, and it will need to be replaced.

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this is a broken connection or a bad transistor output , but it will need to be tested to determine the cause or causes
hope you find this helpful
and plz rate my help, and if you need more help just let me know!

electech

if you take off the platter does the motor spin? if not the motor isnt working. also make sure that the platter is able to freespin if not it may be unbalanced and the turntable needs to be opened up and leveled/raised. very simple its just a few screws on the motor in the center of the turntable.

There seems to be 2 issues with this unit. Usually when the platter speeds up very quickly, one of the IC (integrated circuits) are faulty and needs to be replaced. However, I've never seen the 33/45 lights come on in addition. So, perhaps the issue started with faulty 33/45 switches, and it then caused a short to one of the IC's.

This will have to be professionally serviced, as it is not an easy fix. There are various circuits on the main board which control the drive, so it's a matter of diagnosing which is the culprit. The 33/45 switches will also need to be tested/replaced.

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It doesn't really sound like this tech knew what he was doing. He probably connected the ground wire incorrectly. I would also suggest opening up the tonearm base section, and checking to see the work he did. Perhaps he did not solder the RCA leads correctly.

If all is good, then there are only 2 other things which may cause this... 1) Tonearm, 2) Cartridge. You'll have to check those 2 out.


FYI, I work on 1200s for a living, so I know these machines inside out.

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One of the drive circuits on the main board are faulty, and will need to be replaced. This is not an easy fix, so you will need to take it to a qualified service center for service and repair. Not an expensive fix, but a little time consuming in isolating the issue.

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Issue is either your tonearm or your RCA cables. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to determine which is the problem. I would suggest replacing the RCA cables first, as it is the least expensive. If it does not solve your problem, then the issue is with the tonearm.

You can also do this for now:
Remove your headshell/cartridge from the tonearm. Look inside the tonearm tube, you'll see 4 gold prongs. Make sure all 4 prongs are protruding, and are 'shiny'. If they are not, then the issue is with your tonearm. If they look good, then more than likely, the issue is with your RCA cables. Taking it to a qualified repair center will help in determining what is the issue, but they will need to open your unit to test, so be prepared to pay for the estimate right off the bat.

If your in the NY Metro area, look us up. We also offer nationwide service, if you cannot find anyone local:

http://www.tweakrepair.com

DJPROAUDIO
TWEAK AV LAB

Problem is with the center shaft/spindle. Part can be replace, but not tightened. This happens over time. You can purchase the PART HERE.


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LED probably burned out, or installed reverse (+/- reversed) - Or, you installed a clickless (MK3/MK5) pitch control in an MK2 turntable.

Did you do this yourself? Or did you have this professional done? If professionally, and the LED does not work, ask for your money back! This is electronics repair 101!

If you did this yourself, then more than likely you installed the LED backwards. The longer lead is the positive lead. If the LED did not burn out, you might be able to just remove it and switch it around. If it does not work, then it probably shorted (more than likely). Also make sure that none of your solder is touching. This could cause a bad short to your entire turntable. So you want to becareful.

If you need any further assistance, feel free to give our service dept a call. We are masters with the 1200s, and fix over 300 a year! 1.866.668.1596 ext 1

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Well, does the platter spin at a constant speed (33 or 45 rpm), or does it spin super fast? If it spins at a constant speed, and it just wont stop, replacing that pot should do the trick (VR201 can be purchased HERE). You can attempt to replace it yourself (soldering skills are required), or just buy the part, and have a service tech replace it for you.

If it does not solve the problem, then the issue is with one of the IC's (integrated circuits). This is a more complex diagnosis and repair. But try replacing VR201 first, then taking it from there.

Good luck!

- TERMiNAL OPTiC
www.DJPROLAB.com