Samsung HT-X50 System - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I had this same problem and checked all of my cables and wires. Come to find out one of the wires that connected to the central audio speaker (the one that the audio track comes from) was unplugged. I plugged it in and that fixed it! My audio track is back! So make sure that all of the speaker cables are properly connected! That might be the source of your troubles!

What about an original! http://www.amazon.com/Remote-Control-Samsung-HT-X50T-Theater/dp/B00ILAQWBM

I had the problem of the disk tray opening and closing randomly but finally fixed it. I went thru a number of steps so I don't know which combination or individual step fixed it but I think it was changing the HDMI cable from the TV to the Blu ray player that finally fixed the problem. Previous to that I had removed the disk player and got the audio to work with only the TV and used one of the HDMI inputs as the output from my PC. That way I could play DVDs on my PC and run it thru the player to get audio in the speakers and video on the TV. Every once in a while the tray would try to eject (even though the player was not there). Finally I changed the HDMI cable to an older cable, the one between the TV and the player and it started working! I then put the disk player back in the unit and it all worked, everything!! Good luck!

Did the receiver shut off, or did it remain powered up?If the unit overheats, it will shut down. They can also shut down if the volume is maxed out. Most times when this occurs you can power down and wait 5 minutes to power it back up.What source was being used at the time it stopped transmitting sound?Have you tried to change sources?

are uusing hdmi out this is known for hdmi issues u could always run stuff direct to tv unless its dvd player u wann watch then back from tv to this digital coxial cable

First, is the unidentified TV the actual source of audio (self-tuning from the air) or does its programming actually originate externally, say, a Cable Box? What does the TV's manual say?

If the sound actually comes from an external source treat that source like any other hi-end audio component and attach its highest quailty audio directly to the HT according to ITS manual.

NO signal ever benefits from multiple connections or 'hops' and it gets expensive zig-zagging a signal all over the room. K-I-S-S is the word of the day. Run the BEST version of any signal directly from its source to the BEST electronics that will present it to you for consumption. The separation of audio and video inputs and outputs on a device is what allows and ENCOURAGES the direction of each signal to the BEST electronics that can process it. Example: your TV does not have the best speakers in the room so why send it any high-end audio?

Hello
Discs are not properly loading to its mechanisn catcher. Examine whether there is any foreign objects, like pin or so, fell inside the tray mechanism. Just take system out and check. This type of cases were reported to me by chat. If nothing is found such, the pitches of the gear wheel that turns the tray has damaged, and should be replaced. If so you have to disassemble the mechanism as a whole. There are some locks and positions when you reinsert the new gear wheel. It is really a skilled work. Don't attempt to do this if you are not familier with this type of work. Two high-tension springs are there inside, and there is a trik to place them in poisiton. OK.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Click the Download Document Hyperlink on this page: http://www.retrevo.com/support/Samsung-HT-X50-Home-Theater-Systems-manual/id/2771dj596/t/2/

C10FR 474J 100v is next to C10RR
C10RR 474J 100v
474 = 470000pF
470000pF = 470nF = 0.47uF
J = 5 % tolerance

It's probbaly overheating.

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.

No can do. HTIB's are not adaptable like real components.

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.

Look into the TV's audio controls. If it was my setup, I'd NOT send audio through the TV to the hifi, nor video through the hifi to the TV. Additional hops and interconnects cause problems even though they're theoretically transparent.

hi,
you can connect the XM receiver to you player. for that you need a cable (STEREO MALE TO RCA MALE CABLE). its one end will looks as headphone pin and the other end 2 RCA pins.
connect the headphone pin to you XM receiver's earphone out and the other end (2 RCA) to the AUX IN 2 (AUDIO L/R)(on the rare pannel) of ur player.
select the AUX 2 input pressing the FUNCTION button on your player.
or
purchase a STEREO MALE to STEREO MALE cable and connect its one end to the earphone out of XM radio and the other end to the AUX 1 input of you player (on the frond pannel)
select AUX 1 by pressing FUNCTION button
ok

in most cases its the tv not the player make sure the tv is set to nstc not pal

hello, prot mean protect the output transistor may have blown or a capacitor has poped or swelled up or the just could be a case of a dry joint

regards
shaun

The most common problem found on FixYa for Audio Video Receiver's is:

My receiver say's "Protect" or turns on then off. What's wrong? Seven times out of ten it is a shorted speaker or speaker wire. To determine your exact problem, the first step is to disconnect all speaker wires "at your receiver" Next: Turn the receiver back on. If your receiver still says "protect" or turns off, it needs to be serviced. If your receiver stays on; reconnect your speakers one at a time and power back up after each speaker. You may find that after reconnecting all speaker wires it works! Most commonly the small braids of wire from the + to the - have touched and have caused the problem. In some instances, you noticed the problem only when turning the volume up. either way, make sure the exposed wires to your receiver are no longer than 1/2" long and are completely under the screw down terminal or slide in. When you've found the wire or speaker with the problem, your receiver will go back into "protect" At this point, disconnect the wire from the speaker at the speaker that may be causing the problem then test again.* Note* Make sure speaker wires do Not touch each other as this Will cause a short! If you turn the receiver back on and it stays on, you now know the problem is in your speaker itself. To test your speaker, you will need a multimeter. Set it to ohms resistance and touch the speaker terminals, if there is a short internally the meter will read "1......" If it's an analog meter, it will peg to the right. There's your problem. Now, within any speaker there are quite a few possibilities as to what could be causing the problem. Most common is a blown coil and the speaker needs to be replaced. Some speakers have internal crossovers (usually floor standing speakers) and may have a shorted or burnt board (usually very visible brown burn marks on the board) and can possibly be repaired if your handy with a soldering iron. Now, if you disconnect the speaker wire at the speaker and it still says "protect" Check your wire for the obvious cut or nail thru the wire if possible. If your system has wiring that runs behind walls, you may need to use your meter again. Disconnect the wire at both ends, keep the ends separated, put your meter on ohms resistance and touch probes to the + and - wires at one side. If the meter pegs to the right or reads "1...." the wire is shorted and needs to be replaced or repaired at the short. Hope this helps.

You did the right thing, it is probably a write off, smoke from electronics is always a bad thing. most likely a component failed inside and released a lot of heat and smoke, possibly stressing other components as well.

If its under warranty call the dealer, but if its old get something new.
But in any case always tell the maker what happened, just so they know what happened .

Hope this helps
Thanks for using FixYa

Audio IC main outputs are shot my dear friend ... if you plug your headsets this automatically disconnects your main speaks ... unit should stay on . Once you unplug headset it goes back to main automatically protection is displayed and shut unit off ... going into protection mode is just so the short in the unit won't burn out other stages of the output sector. but outputs must be replace .