20 Most Recent Cuisinart Supreme Grind CCM-16PC Grinder Questions & Answers

The 3 switches in the grinder look to be off the shelf switches. They are wired in series. An "off" switch is one of these and is wired normally as a closed switch. This is actuated at the off end of the sliding switch. Not sure if you can get these switches out to replace. The smaller black and red wires from the circuit board go to these switches. There is also a fuse on the circuit board. Can run a brief test by shorting between mb1 and mb2 on the triac. Hope this helps someone.

I just had the same problem, and careful examination revealed a horizontal (circumferencial) crack in the feed tube just above the top grinder wheel. I imagine the force of the grind is causing the crack to expand so that the wheels are jamming together creating too much friction/force for the grind to continue. Limited parts are available on cuisinart.com. Where you only need the shaft in this case, you will have to buy the entire bean chamber to get that part. About $8 plus shipping. They're showing the model as DBM-8. I'm pretty sure it's the same model as CCM-16PC that's stamped on the bottom.

Yes it unscrews, just turn it counter clockwise and it will come out. Don't be surprised if the plastic neck and burr head is broken because this is an inferior design and needs to be trashed. I will never buy another Cuisinart product.

It is probably one of the micro switches, but if it is less than 18 months old, take it back and get your money and buy something good because these are junk.

It has an 18 month warranty and I suggest you RUN to the retailer and get your money back.... Don't buy another one because they are junk.

Actually, I've never had any problems with my grinder. Got it for a very low price at Costco about 2 years ago. The switch has never failed to function and I've often slid the switch over to the left to stop the grinding before the designated time (I was in a hurry for my coffee) , but this hasn't seemed to negatively effect the function of the switch. It just keeps working. 

Usually, there is something in the motor which is a thermal fuse. It has a current rating and a temperature rating. Be sure to get both the temperature and current ratings on the replacement part. There is also a thermostat running in series with the supply. Check this part if it has gone open.

it can be 3 problems: 1 bearings old and noisy(i dont belive it it the case) 2 seting of grinding to very fine 2 trifase motor problem
solution1 you change bearings solution 2 : becouse of fine setting you have problem with output of grinded coffee>> you need to release for quorter or half revolution the setting plate and turn it on(before you do that mark the place you are at the moment with setting plate) solution 3 Trifase motors change the rotation when we change the place of 2 fases and it spins in wrong way. check the spinning and make sure that your grinder spins in way that should be spining, if he does not than simply change the rotation.
good luck

Hi. I started with on a middle setting and noted the taste of the coffee. Grind small amounts at a time. Then change the settings for more or less fine grounds to taste. However, the largest factor in coffee making is the water. Filtered water is best. Then the last factor: the milk/cream/whitener issue. Between taste, cost and calories a bit of decision making is needed to provide the best cup of coffee for your needs. Regards.

Colinchee, this sounds like a rather complicated electrical engineering issue. Why not buy a coffee grinder in the UK design and rated for your power? It might even be cheaper and the guarantee will cover design flaws. Regards.