LG LRE30451 Electric Kitchen Range - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The lock and unlock works well for the 4 - 5 button problem. However the "start" button failure is another problem altogether. I had this problem and found that the ribbon connector attaching the membrane switches to the circuit card (PWB) is where the problem lies. The ribbon cables (two of them) are connected by a pressure contact connector mounted on the PWB. This connection method is less than robust. the fix is to pull the ribbon from the connector, clean it carefully with a paper towel and some alcohol, and reconnect it. To remove the cable the connector has a small flange that pops up about .05 inch whn you pull on the connector. Once it pops up gently pull the ribbon cable out of the connector. To replace it just push the ribbon back into the slot on the top of the connector and snap the flange back down. I strongly suspect this connector will get dirty again every couple years as the oven vent fumes are not properly prevented from partially passing over the PWB right where these connectors are mounted.

LG had a recall awhile back because the control panel touch control switch was right over the oven vent (on the right side) and use of the oven made it randomly cycle lock/unlock+ ding all night long for weeks.
Throwing the breaker off for the night was the only recourse, besides having LG replace the control panel.

I found that it would eventually fix itself (!), but come back at some point here and there, and then disappear weeks later.

I would contact the manufacturer and share this with some one in the company higher than your techs maybe someone in customer service that can help you

Did they stop working after running the self-cleaning cycle? That is what happened to mine. I moved the oven and unplugged it. Left it unplugged for a few days waiting for repairman. He plugged it in when he got there, and everything worked. He advised against using the self-cleaning cycle because the heat can cause problems with the touchpad buttons.

F-9 is the "Oven too hot error". When the oven reaches its temperature a switch is opened. If this switch is defective it may stay closed and the oven will overheat.

Let it dry and then plug it in again. You may have a bad connection, if you didn't short something out while the alcohol was still wet. maybe check for a blown fuse?

The start button on the control board is broken and the whole display will need to be replaced. Here is that part to order.All parts come with a 365 day, any part, any reason return policy.

Try unplugging it and plugging it back in. This will reset the panel and hopefully kick in the switch for the start button. Worked for me.

Proverbs 24:19

Unplug the unit and plug it back in. This usually fixes it.However if not, someone will need to inspect the oven door lock module to determine if the PCB or the module is at fault.This model is a little difficult to diagnose without see it.

Here is a link to my supplier. Scroll down on the parts page to the element you need.

Here is the part you need but you will need to call the number on that page and order it.

Press and hold the start button down till it beeps twice and then let go. The lock should unlock

After a self-clean the F-1 code came on and I couldn't use the touch pad, completely dead. I read a single post from "Toughs" on your site about pushing the "Clear" button and then the "Start" button and keeping it held til the lock button lights up (takes a while) and push "Clear" again. Afterwards everything worked and was able to reset the clock and used the stove and oven. Thank you for the solution, saved myself a $240 service call and keypad replacement, which is what I was told was needed.

Check the oven temperature probe (thermister) to see if it is good. To check it, use a multi-meter and Ohm it out. It should be between 1100 and 1600 Ohms. If it is out of tolerance, you will need to replace it. Here is the part to order.

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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could be one of 2 problems. could be a bad switch or a bad element. or both.

Shut the power off at the breaker, wait 10 minutes, then reset the breaker. Sometimes the units need to be reset, as power failures will make the computers in them react 'funny'.

Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds. A beep will sound 2 times. The DOOR LOCKED will continue to flash until the oven door has completely unlocked. Hope this helps.