20 Most Recent Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000E Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hello. Do you have a well for your water supply? If so, turn off the cold water to the washer and remove the supply hose from the back of the washer. Check the inlet water screen for blockage due to sand, sediment, or other debris. It's a fine filter so BE CAREFUL if you have to remove it--don't damage it at all! It protects the precision valve from debris getting caught and jamming the valve. Next, you will have to remove the top cover of the washer if the screen was clear. Locate the cold water valve assembly(pic 1, part 36) and check to see if 120v is at the valve coil when the washer is supposed to be filling. If the voltage is there, the valve is defective. Also, and more hidden, is the possibility of a defective water level sensor--(it's about 1.25 inches wide by approx 3 inches long), it will have a small wiring harness attached to it, it's mounted on the right side, approximately 6 inches or so from the back wall of the washer and has a black rubber tube attached and running down the back of the tub to the air chamber at the bottom. (see pic 2 and 3) This sensor can fail in 2 directions--it can either think there is water in the tub already and the washer won't fill or, most disastrously, constantly think there is *no* water in the tub and flood your house. The former can happen if the air chamber gets clogged with mold/mildew. The latter can happen if a pinhole should develop in the pressure hose(air pressure never builds up to tell the sensor to tell the main board to stop filling!)To check the latest stored error code, press and hold the start/pause and cancel buttons simultaneously. The error code will appear as long as the buttons are held. E11 is fill time too long (either a clogged screen or defective valve) E31 Pressure sensor communication error E35 Pressure sensor indicates water overfill PART NUMBERS MAIN BOARD 134556600 DISPENSER VALVE ASSEMBLY 134371220 ANALOG PRESSURE SWITCH 134407800 I hope I helped you!

You can do a bench test. Pull the motor and hook it direct to a power source. If it powers it is good.

If you do this yourself it should be around 140 dollars.

Samsung Washer Error Code NF (Fixed ...

www.appliancerepairlesson.com/.../samsung-washer-error-code-nf-fixed/

Jan 11, 2014 - What does the error code NF mean on a Samsung washer? ... You can set the washer to any cycle and test each solenoid for proper voltage. ... Next would be to check the screens on the back where the water hoses connect. ..... Hi, you don'thave any power to the water valve wires when it should be filling?

looks like the windings on motor are burnt out , motor has different winding for different cycles

The washer has not drained all the way. If you did not use HE detergent then the suds are causing this. If you did you HE then the filter is most likely full and the machine did not drain all the way. There is a way to check it and it is not easy. The back comes off. When you take the back off, on the left side is the pump and the filter.

Just fixed mine, only I did not have to take it all a part. Just tip it over and reached in thru the opening in the bottom. Took the clamp loose with a phillips screwdriver and pulled the rubber off that contains the filter. Stuck my hand in the opening and pushed up on the filter from the bottom on the rubber container. Out came the filter and I cleaned it and pushed back down inside until it was past the lip that held it in place. Works great, took about 10 mins., not bad for a woman, huh. Thanks for the info, could not have done without your diagram and information.

sergio sarduy, I understand you are having problems with the air trap in your laundry appliance. When speaking about the air trap being clogged or restricted it sounds more like it would be a dryer with this problem. Would you mind confirming the appliance and a few more details with the problem you are experiencing? Best Regards,

Front Load Washer Repair Not Draining or Spinning How to Unclog the Drain...

Good Afternoon James, I see that you are still having trouble with your Frigidaire Affinity washer, model# ATF7000E, finishing and now starting a load, even after replacing the door lock. I would start by making sure that your washer door is completely closed. Next I would check to make sure that your washer controls are not locked. You will see a "LOC" code if the controls are locked. To get them out of the lock mode, press and hold the "Options" and "Select" buttons at the same time for 10 seconds. If you are still having trouble you will want to give your washer a hard reset. You can do this by either unplugging it or cutting the power at the circuit breaker for 2-3 minutes. Once power is restored, if you are still having trouble with your appliance either not starting or not completing the cycle, I would recommend contacting either the manufacturer or your local authorized technician. Hope this helps. -Best Regards- WP

Sounds like your breadboard/motherboard is bad. It will need to be replaced

unplug it for a while

Seems like the door switch is not closing its contacts, either misaligned or defectice

Did you try cleaning up the water filters where the water hoses connect to the washer in the back? I had mine clogged with sediment one time and water was not coming out properly.

Hello friend, thank you for your post! I understand that your Frigidaire washer is displaying an error code of "E66". An "E66" code stands for heating element relay failure. This could be a problem with your heating element or control panel. In order to properly locate the issue you would need to disassemble your washer and test each electrical component to assure it is providing an accurate reading. This is not a simple DIY job. I would recommend having a professional technician for proper diagnosis and repair. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Hi claire64 - Usually when "PAU" displays on the screens, it indicates that the unit thinks that the door is not securely latch when you started the cycle, or the cycle has been interrupted. Try pressing "PAUSE/CANCEL" or "START/PAUSE" once to resume washer. If proves to be ineffective, try reprogramming the unit by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes, restart unit and resume cycle. If fault reoccurs, then it typically means that the unit either has a faulty door latch assembly or a communication error from the control board. Since there are cost differences in parts, it is always a good idea to have a service tech properly diagnose your appliance.

HARDWATER?

No agitation? first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15, 16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. ( where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, do the same test agin on all prongs. Now keep the pressure on switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.

u just remove the screws from the other side of drum u may have to remove cabinet or top panel

No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.