20 Most Recent EnGenius EOC-3220 (EOC3220) - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I have NO EXPERIENCE with this equipment; but have researched this to some degree on the internet. If you are willing to experiment with me we may both learn something. First thing I learned is the difference between ad hoc and infrastructure networks. I have a feeling the default for most wireless routers and wireless adapters is an infrastructure approach. From reading the EEOC-3220 documentation its default is called bridge mode which is an ad hoc network. (this would seem to require reconfiguring your wireless adapter whenever you move from indoors to outdoors -- not desirable.) This can be changed to an infrastructure network by configuring it as an access point which also appears to allow configuration of additional security options including WEP or WPA encryption and MAC checking and could allow hiding the SSID if desired -- all of which apparently could and should match your indoor wireless router. The preferable configuration for the EOC-3220 would be to set an IP address statically (dynamic may be possible) to one valid for the indoor wireless routers subnet and not already used in your indoor wireless router's subnet and disable DHCP on the EOC-3220 and allow your indoor network to control DHCP for the outdoor segment. From what I can tell this configuration should allow the two wireless devices to attach to your PC in a seamless or transparent manner.

Probably you have to learn that there are various people looking for an access of the internet through your facilities. Anyway, inorder to solve your problem these are the following recommendation I made just for you. Hope this will be helpful.

PHASE I
1.) How do I reset the EOC-3220 / EOC-3220 EXT / EOC-3220+ back to factory default settings? An RS-232 null modem serial cable is required for this procedure.
(where to buy it : http://www.keenansystems.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=221)

1. Connect the EOC-3220 to your computer with a null modem serial cable.

2. Start a HyperTerminal session: Click Start and then select Programs -> Accessories -> Communications -> HyperTerminal.

3. After the HyperTerminal window appears:
a. Give this new connection a name. Ex: EOC-3220.
b. Select correct COM port. Ex:COM1.
c. Set baud rate as "38400", data bits "8", parity "none", stop bits "1", and flow control as "None". Then press “OK” to bring up the HyperTerminal window.

4. Wait until the "#" is displayed in the HyperTerminal window.

5. Type "flash reset", then hit enter.

6. Type "reboot", then hit enter. After the device reboots, all settings will be at factory default.

Phase II

1.) Since that you already reseted the AP you need to use the default IP which is 192.168.1.1 user: admin password: admin

2.) Make it sure you need to use different IP such as 72.10.251.xxx and the subnet: 255.255.255.xxx

3.) The idea of configuration in come from your own desire which was no body can no longer try to match your network IP so that there will be no body access your AP anymore without your knowledge.

4.) You need to make you SSID invisible to everyone inorder no body no longer able to reach your SSID by setting up basic setting which is transparent to everyone.

5) And lastly change the default user and password of your AP.

Good Luck

What are you using for Internet connects? do you have the Access point connected to a Router. or is it connected to the Cable or DSL modem. I will need more information to complete this. If you have a router is is set to give an IP address or do you have a static IP? If it is set to give a Dynamic ip change the access point to recieve ip address from router and same with computer. If your connected directly to the Modem with the access point and you only have one IP address it will be used by the access point and not allow the computer to connect.
for more help please provide your internet (DSL, T1, CABLE) if you have router,  how it provides IP, and how access point is connected to it.

Here is a chart that will help you. with more info you can get more exact, but to answer what I think is your question, it would be about 1-3 miles. Without knowing the Mbps I can't be more accurate.
aspin.asu.edu/projects/wireless/ranges.html
as far as advantages, theres no more than any other except for distance. Disadvantage...don't see any.

Hi Philip,

To answer your question, from a single TX/RX device (your WiFi unit) to a dual antenna, what you would need as a splitter is more commonly called a "phasing harness".

A phasing harness is a balanced transmission line which is used when you want to stack or use two antennas from a single radio output. In lower frequencies it is made from a pair of 75 ohms high grade coaxial cable of equal odd quarter wavelengths of the operating frequency. The joint at the middle is connected with a “tee” connector with another cable (standard 50 ohms cable) that runs down to the radio. The free ends of the 2 75 ohms coax are then connected to the two antennas. This  site shows phasing harness for multiple antennas.

For microwave region, since losses tends to be magnified, commercial grade are often used rather than home brewed. Examples are shown in this page.

Alternately and perhaps simpler is to just remove the reflector of the 8Dbi patch antenna of the EOC 3220. Normally in designs such as the 3220, the active patch antenna is soldered on one side of the PCB.  At the back is another which looks just like it but slightly bigger. This is the reflector.  The reflector has two (2) purposes:
1.    block any signal coming in from and going to the back of the active patch antenna; and
2.    reflect any back signal of the active patch antenna and re-direct it forward to effectively increase the front signal.

If you decide to remove the reflector, there will be 3 effects on the performance of your TX/RX device:
1.    the front (major) lobe (roughly the front radiation pattern; maximum distance and area covered of the front signal traveled) will be greatly reduced;
2.    that reduction would be translated to a rear coverage; and
3.    it is highly possible that you will have small side lobes as well.

This   document  would give you an idea on the lobes and radiation patterns.

Good luck.

Philip,

If you are planning to use a single antenna and then use a "splitter" to connect two (2) WiFi units, I'm afraid that it will not work.

Antenna splitters are meant for receive only mode but since WiFi operates both on receive and transmit, then perhaps what you would need is a "duplexer".

Both of your WiFis would be operating on 2.4GHz band.  Theoretically, you would have to fix set your first WiFi device to operate on the lowest channel possible and the other on the highest channel possible. The channel separation translates to frequency difference; lowest for Channel 1 is 2.401GHz while the highest for Channel 11 is 2.473GHz.

Constructing your own would be at best a daunting task since you would need to be very familiar with electronic components and circuitry in the microwave region. Further, you have to have access to specialized equipment (microwave capable) such as a spectrum analyzer, swr meter, dummy loaded wattmeter and a frequency counter to say the least.  In most countries, you would also need certain licenses to do this.

With all of these in mind, your best bet might be to use individual external antennas for each WiFi device and positioned them as far away as possible from each other.  Moreover, pls bear in mind that anything between the transmitter and the antenna would introduce attenuation, insertion and return loss and this include even just the cable.

 

If you would still want to give it a try:

1. Here is a   link  to  commercial duplexer for  amateur radio;
2. Here’s a   link  to  a do-it-yourself page for lower amateur frequencies;
3. This is a   link   to a component supplier page.

 
Good luck and kind regards.

Hi,

Have not worked on such a brand/model, but if it is anything similar to a Motorola Canopy CPE then you would have to check:

1. that the AC/DC adapter is putting out 48VDC with the use of a voltmeter;
2. that power is  being received and transferred by the Inline Power Injector (PoE) to the unit's Ethernet cable;
3. that you can ping the unit (192.168.1.1)
4. back-up or log your configurations and then do a system reset.

Hope this be of some help/idea. Pls post back result so we can figure other things out.

Good luck and kind regards.

notify provider for assistance

Have you tried 192.168.1.1?

type in address bar 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 set the router up with a password

Reset the Linksys to "factory settings", including the default logon-ID and password. Login to the router, and enable wireless security, and set a password for your wireless network.

Solwise have a lot of Engenius drivers here; http://www.solwise.co.uk/downloads/wireless.htm