Technics SL-BD20D Turntable - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Good day. It sounds to me like the belt is worn. Under the felt of the turning section, there should be two rather large holes. Insert your thumb and forefinger and pull the table off. You should also see where the existing belt is running. Insert new belt around the motor first and replace the table section. Now, through the two holes, manouver the belt onto the table section until it spins freely

you need a phono pre-amp or a mixer...

well jus put all new fuses and wires on it then report back to me

have you got anti skate adjustment

You have to replace the needle.

If the mat lifts up to reveal a hole then you might get at the belt that way. I would have thought that the platter will lift up anyway. It might be held by a clip washer, around the spindle, from the top, sometimes hidden under a glued plastic piece. If you can't get in that way unscrew the base.

Get an external pre-amp. They range in price from 25-100 and more, depending on the capabilities. All over Ebay, and electronics sites. That will fix your problem. Hope this helps

is the wire loose on either end? sometimes the electrical plugs can cause noise due to resistance, so trying different outlets might help too

You need to run that black wire to ground, perhaps a screw on your electrical outlet. You also need a pre-amp with your turntable, I use the mcm 40-630 you can find it many places for sale.

Did you ground the turntable? Most of them have a ground wire located somewhere that connects to a screw on your electrical outlet. You could be getting hum from your pre-amp if it is a low quality one. Try unhooking the pre-amp, if that is the problem you won't hear the hum. If the turntable ground is the problem you won't hear music with no pre-amp but you will still hear the hum.

If you feel confident doing so, you could attempt to open the cassette deck and physically examine the gears to check for damage or debris that might be obstructing them. But do remember that there are risks involved when opening electronic equipment, especially if you're not used with doing this kind of work. If you're not sure you can do this securely, it would be preferable to get assistance from a qualified audio equipment repair specialist.

Could be one channel has failed in the amplifier caused by 40 year old components failing. Could be a shorted speaker lead, damaging the amplifier. Job to say without seeing it on the work bench with test gear.

Question edited for clarity. No free ones.

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I would check the weight and allignment.

The cueing mechanism should lift and lower the tone arm regardless of whether there is oil in the cylinder or not. The silicon oil is used to dampen the movement. If the lever does not operate the tonearm, then there is mechanical damage under the platter.

Were you expecting an electronic powered unit to work without power ... No power = No output.

Question edited for spelling and add some SPACES! Did you look for bulging electrolytic capacitors? If you can't see any, then you need to take it to a service centre, as they have thousands of dollars of test equipment and access to parts. ..

Probably dirty contacts in the tone control section.

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Are you sure that model number is correct? It looks like they should have 4 numbers.

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