20 Most Recent Technics SL-1200MK2 Turntable - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Couple of options , but first cleanen the pithfader and variable resistor pitch vr3 i thought, it's an open one , he needs allways to be replaced, even technics says so and first clean the board, inside and on youtube and this side there enough movies and text how to do it, and check the pitchfader cables very good.

Is everything cleaned, and the needle seems clean , but then it aint and clean the record real good, not with a simple brush. But the questions gives me questions , is it cutting with scratching? then i'd like to know your scratch unit, since some tt are too slow to scratch with. And you'll be surprised which they are..... 500dollar plus

once you soldered to circuit board place - this might help Advanced Tonearm stuff Tightening the suspension on your tonearm Some TT's have tonearms which seem to be loose. If you grab the tonearm and pull it gently back and forth and it seems loose you can tighten it. It shouldn't move at all. A loose suspension can severely affect it's performance - from jumping needles to binding. It's pretty easy to tighten the suspension. You'll need a small flat screwdriver and a large one. Use the large one to loosen the outer locking screw on the top of the pivot point. Now use the smaller screwdriver to loosen up the smaller screw. Put a drop of oil where the bearings are (under that top support on the other end of the adjustment screw) so that it doesn't bind. Now tighten the small screw slowly until it just contacts the bearings. Adjust the tightness so the tonearm doesn't wiggle if you pull on it but leave it loose enough for the tonearm to pivot freely without binding. Adjust carefully and don't overtighten otherwise the bearings will be damaged! When done, tighten up the locking screw. Tightening up the headshell locking ring Have you put on your headshell, twisted that knurled tightener at the end of the tonearm as tight as possible and have found that the headshell still moves around? What will happen is that the headshell won't sit parallel to the record but may be tilted as a result of twisting of the headshell. This usually occurs when you change headshells a lot or if you've had your turntable for a while, and can contribute to needle jumping so here's what you do to fix it. First read 3.2 on base disassembly. Remove the rubber base. There will be this big piece of hard black plastic covering almost everything. You'll need to remove it. To remove the tonearm assembly look for three screws (all formerly under that black plastic) and unscrew them. Be careful not to drop the tonearm when you remove that last screw! Now, remove the tonearm assembly from the rest of the 1200, and look at the bottom of the tonearm where the headshell is put in. There will be two tiny philips screws there. Get a jewelers screwdriver of the CORRECT size and tighten those up. Put the headshell on and try wiggling it to make sure everything is right. Now put your tonearm back on and close everything back up. hope this helps peace DJ Nyce

Pls explain me what a discover dj is from technics or do we talk about a software program , standing loose from technics?

It may be a bit late to start talking, but you need to narrow down the problem. It could be all manor of things, but start by breaking the problem down. Try the turntable in another known working amplifier. Does it work ok? If so the problem is not the turntable, but another part of your setup. Try the following : First of all, try a clean source such as a cd player. Does that come out of both channels ok? If so, your amplification is ok. Is the the Turntable going into a mixer? Try another phono channel of the mixer. Tried all channeles and still got a problem? Try another mixer as the master output of the mixer could be faulty. Still a problem? Try your mixer in to another input of the same and of another amplifier? Is there still a problem? Well you have tested your main equipment, so now you can conectrate on the deck. Get another headshell with another known working cart and install them into this deck. Still a problem? Beyond this you need a little more expertise and I'm unaware of your technical abillities. As a matter of safety for yourself and your equipment, you should take it to a professional to have it repaired.

You have not given much information, however if you're not sure how to go abvout changing a fuse I would suggesst you take it to a professional\electrician to do this for you. It would be irresponsible of anyone to advise you to do otherwise and potentionaly put your life and equipment in danger. Fuses blow for a reason, so an electrician\specialist will be able to test the item for you to ensure it is safe.

It's not really a digital signal, per say. Its an analog representation of a digital signal. This is good because it's easier troubleshoot. The first thing I would try is check the ground wires. #1cause of Serato Traktor problems. If that's not it, play an analog record to see how it sounds. If you have a missing channel, clean the cartridge with a pencil eraser and inspect the stylus and try again. Restart your mixer and computer (this cycles the ground) and you should be good to go. If not you may have bad cables that will have to be changed. See the thing about turntables is the audio signal never comes in contact with the turntables electronics. it goes from the needle through the arm and out the cables. The cartridge's signal is magnetic not line level so it needs good shielded cables. Perfect opportunity to upgrade the cheap cables from the manufacturer and you can internally ground the turntable at the same time Eliminate the annoying ground wire. It requires a bit of soldering, all amateur stuff. Youtube is filled with tutorials on changing cables and eliminating the ground wire. oh make sure you have a good shielded USB cable. If this doesn't work I can think of more. Give more secifics about your setup. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_149c4c1c216e42f2

Sounds like to much anti-skating with an old stylus. That can pull a needle back over and over again around the center of the record. Try setting the anti-skating at 0% and see what happens. Also set your tonearm height to level with the platter. These may not completely fix the problem (may need new stylus tips) but shout make a huge improvement I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_149c4c1c216e42f2

can you be more specific? which light isnt on? the power light, the popup light, or the pitch fader light? and what do you mean by the channel? are you using mutiple technics? and are you using serato?

Sorry to say but it sounds like one of two things. Either A. You somehow may have exposed some nearby wire that allowed for it to touch up against a metallic part of your mixer causing an electrical fire or almost fire. B. The particular capacitor that regulates the amount of voltage to course throughtout your turntable was drawing way more than specified due to the upgraded blue LED's that they themselves may be spec'd much to high for the Technics.

Ok it could be the following of which is a very detailed way to go about fixing it so here we go: 1. Make sure your deck is set to 33rpm & that the pitch fader is at the greenlight or dead center spot. Remove the platter & plastic under covering that bares 5 phillips head screws. 2. This is what it looks like without the platter & plastic cover. 3. Next flip your turntable over onto a big fluffy pillow to protect your tonearm mainly. 4. Remove the feet & all the screws from the bottom rubber cover. After that simply pull up the rubber cover easy & it may be a little tight in there so just do it nice & easy until it has been separated and completely removed out of the way. 5. Now on the underside of your pitch fader you'll see the board & locate the hole thats in that board & use a phillips screwdriver to turn it to the left all the way until it stops. 6. Now flip it over and turn it on, make sure its set to 33rpm & the pitch fader is st to "0" or where the greenlight turns on. 7. Then move the pitch fader in the "+" or positive direction or slide it towards you slowly a couple of increments say until you get to the "+2" the Big Red Dot moves & then comes to a stop again like it was before you moved the pitch fader when you stop on "+2". When that happens leave the pitch fader there turn off the deck, remove the platter and then unplug the pitch fader from its internal connection. 8. After its unplugged flipp it bck over again& now you need to bust out your Multimeter & set it to the 20k mark. 9. After that then take your 2 contact points and place them on these to solder joints on the pitch fader board to get your first reading. 10. Again dont go by what reading I have in the picture but instead whatever reading your mutlimeter gives you & write that number down & now you have to get the 2nd reading. 11. First you must reach underneath & now you can slide the pitch fader back into the "0" position or in the middle again & then repeat the same process you did when you got the first reading by placing your contacts again back on the two solder points and take a 2nd reading. 12. Now while you hold the black/red contacts on the solder points, you take your screwdriver & place it back into that hole from earlier & slowly turn it to the right until you see the reading on the multimeter screen matching whatever the number was that you got on your 1st reading. When they match stop & flip over your turntable & make sure you re-connect that plug for your pitch fader. 13. Now go ahead and put the rubber bottom cover back on with all those screws but leave the top internal plastic cover off still, of course you can put the platter back on but leave that plastic part underneath it off. TO BE CONTINUED...

The transformer is not fried (at least not likely) PROTECTION IC'S 2 - 2SD637 (These are fried...$2 each...:) IF NO POWER CHECK THESE are NORMAL TRANSISTOR NPN 2 UNITS MAIN SOURCE OF NO POWER Q2 Q3 (EBC label on the board) I did this myself. EXACTLY the same thing. Two protection IC's (I prefer fuses -.-). Order from Syracuse semiconductors. 5count for $10 and fast free shipping. You can get singles for $2 on ebay if you only want five, but then you have to wait on shipping from China. Good thing I went with 5, because I ruined the first pair running the iron to hot. LOL but it works now. This will help diagnose other problems. Check it out. http://www.deckdoctor.com.au/TECHNIC%20SL1200%20PCB.pdf I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_149c4c1c216e42f2

hi, there is a rubber grommet at the base of the tonearm on the left side. Remove and insert a flat blade screw driver. Adjust and test until remedied. Cheers John. Stylus City.

Most likely need a new stylus. Cheers john. Stylus City

Hi, at the base of the tonearm on the left side is a rubber grommet. Remove and insert a flat blade screw driver. Adjust slightly to the right and test. Adjust until needle lands in correct position at start of record. Cheers John. Stylus City

Check for bad solderings on Q201 and surrounding areas. Resolder IC101 and IC201. If that doesn't help, Q2 and Q3, both 2SD637R, could be broken. If that doesn't fix it replace the electrolytic capacitors. Cheers john. Styluscity

I rather suspect that your amp might not have a "magnetic cartridge pre-amp". If you check your instructions book it should state if the amp has a dedicated "phono" socket with inbuilt pre-amp. If it does use that. Otherwise you can buy a pre-amp online that will do the job.

I'm not to sure which cable you are talking about. Is it the power cable, or the audio connection one?

No. Motors simply turn. It's when you make them work harder by putting loads on when the problems start.

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i did they made my setup work like new so im going to spread the word.
give them a shot