20 Most Recent Dewalt 18 Volt Compact Drill Kit - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem. I have a DCD950 keyless chuck. Spry some DW40 into the check and try again. it worked like a charm for me.

if u are trying to replace the chuck head place an alen wrench in the screw down inside of the chuck and give a sharp rap with hammer to braek lose(may be left handed dont remember)...hope it helps

The chuck will not turn. So to loosen just turn the black plastic counter clockwise. The chuck will loosen. Or you can hold the black part on the chuck tight and put the drill in reverse and slowly squeeze the trigger and the chuck will loosen also. Do the opposite to put a new bit in. Put the drill in forward and hold the black part of the chuck and squeeze the trigger with the bit in place and it will tighten down on the bit.

u have to open the chuck all the way open and there is a screw down in side of the chuck and u may have to put outside of chuck in a vice

Most models have two selections, one for the clutch (which in effect regulates the torque applied) and the other is the gear selection ( usually a setting of 1, 2 & 3, with 1 being for driving screws and 3 for drilling purposes). In addition to those selections, the trigger controls the overall speed of the motor. These are all the control you have over the drill, granted the Dewalt tool is a bit torquey, but it is meant to be a construction tool.

The DC9099 or part number 651034-01 ($105.00) is the battery you need.
It can be ordered here
http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Parts/Search?searchedNumber=651034-01

Or you can go to your local service center or Home Depot/Lowe's

Ensure the clutch collar is turned to where the little drill bit Icon is top dead center of the drill. If this is so, and your gear selector switch is not between gears, you will need a clutch. If this is a 991 Type 1, you may be able to get away with just an output gear, which rides against the ball bearings of the clutch.
392755-00 Output Gear part #. Generally when it is that bad, you will have to remove the clutch from the transmission without taking off the chuck, because the needed resistance for that operation is simply not available.

If you mean how to take the chuck off, here you go. Open the chuck jaws all the way. There is a screw at the bottom of the chuck going into the shaft of the drill. If I remember correctly, it is a combination flat, or t30. This screw is reverse thread. Remove it by turning it clockwise. Once the retaining screw is out, get a 3/8 inch allen wrench. tighten the short end into the drill chuck. Lay the drill down on a work bench so that the long part of the allen wrench is hanging off the edge, facing you. The chuck comes off regular thread, so you are going to rotate the allen wrench counter clockwise. They are usually pretty tight. The best way is to put the drill in low range, and hit the allen wrench with a hammer so as to turn the drill chuck counter clockwise. Install the new chuck in reverse order.

Try at eReplacementParts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair Diagrams.


If you need more help come back.Post / thumbs / testimonial are welcome!

Try at eReplacementParts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair Diagrams.

If you need more help come back.Post / thumbs / testimonial are welcome!

Hi, these units tend to heat up over extended use. It is possible that your brushes have worn down and need to be replaced. The contact area around the commutator, (where the brushes push against), should be cleaned gently with ultra fine steel wool. Also, the gaps between the contact points of the commutator should be free of any conductive dust left behind by your dying brushes. Since the drill needs to be disassembled in order to do this, check any connections for weakness and any more conductive dust that may be shorting something. good luck.

You have a keyless chuck that holds the bits, just hang on to it with one hand and spin the motor with the switch, let it tighten up on the bit and hang on tight, it should grab it. To get it off, just reverse the drill motor and hang on to the chuck again, and it will come out. Check it out.

Try and eReplacementParts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair.

Hi,
Before I would go sending the drill away to get fixed I would buy a fresh battery for it. If the batteries are five years old you have done well. They often will not even last that long and especially if you have only used it a few times in five years...
Sometimes the batteries can be "flashed' to help bring them back but that often does not work...
and it takes special setup to do it...
If it were me I would just spring for a new battery... I am 99% sure that there is nothing wrong with your drill.

heatman101

Change the trigger.Look at eReplacementParts.com and the parts diagrams.

Thumbs back!

The brush holders are located at the back end of the motor. Depending on which model you have, you may have to only remove the end cap at the back of the motor to get access to the brush/holder set. Or you may have to split the entire clamshell to get at them. Be careful if you have to remove the transmission, there are a lot of small parts that can fall out and they all have to go back in correctly to make it work.

I just changed the chuck on my 18 volt xrp half inch hammer drill,yes first you must remove the torx screw with #15 torx bit,note this is a left handed thread screw,knowing the bad chuck was bad I added some heat from a propane torch to the chuck then making sure it was in 1st gear i took some vise grips and the chuck is screwed on with normal right handed threads,it broke loose (was stubborn but needs a lot of torque )ahhhhhh wat a pain.

go to the tip section and there are detailed instructions on how to do this, you might find it under my profiles in the tips

it is possible that it hs moved, or the switch is stuck in fhe forward position