20 Most Recent Maytag 20 cu. ft. Upright Freezer MQU2056B - Page 5 Questions & Answers

either the contactor on compressor is defective or the comp is low on freon/refrigerant

model #? some are inside the unit, some are down below in the grill area (below doors) hope this helps

If it has a fan in it, it's self defrosting. The moving air burns away the frost and 8 out of every 24 hours, the defrost timer will turn a heating element in the cooling coils, to melt away any ice buildup.
If it isn't a self defrost model, you can safely defrost it woth a pan of hot water. I also use a spray bottle woth hot water to help the process. DON'T use anything electrical to make the heat. Water can drip into or onto it and you could get electrocuted.

Unplug the unit, discharge the old capacitor, remove it and install the new one. Don't cross the wires.

You have to find a licensed refrigeration tech. with a recovery machine .

This is not a self defrosting freezer . Remove the plug and hose ONLY when you unplug to defrost . You should defrost when the coils get about 1/4 " of frost (ice) on them . Otherwise , the frost will act like the plastic insulation on electrical wire , not letting the coldness freeze the food solidly .

The drain is clogged behind the wall in the freezer you can do one of three things take the back wall inside the freezer off and thaw the drain in the bottom and clear it out,Pay someone else to do this,or you can mover your food for a day unplug the unit open the freezer door and leave it off for 24 hours allowing the ice to clear from the drain,seems to happen about every five or six years with Maytags..

Possibly a bad valve but more likely not enough water coming to the unit,follow the water line from the back of the unit to where it hooks to the pipes there is usually a little saddle valve there,try closing it all the way and then open it back up check the water through the door and see if the pressure doesn't improve. 
 You can also remove the Ice maker clear out the fill tube and sit a cup under the end of it for a day or two if you get water in the cup and Ice in the tube you probably have a solenoid valve that isn't closing completely.

If the fan in the freezer is working , but the compressor is not , then the overload/relay is bad ( pt # 4356738 ) . If you hear nothing , then the defrost timer is bad ( pt # 4357124 ) . This part looks like its located close to the compressor or in one of the corners of fridge on back with about 1/2 " hole to access manual turning slot . Turn the slot and see if fridge starts .

You have a clear and present fire hazard that should be looked at ASAP. Do not leave this appliance unattended and you should unplug it any time you are away from it until professional repair arrives.

Good Luck.

I would first try turning the temperature down on your freezer before considering buying any parts. Your ice is freezing before it is reaching the position to dump in the bin. Also, if you have any items packed around the area where you ice maker is, try to free up a little space around it. If that does not work I would call the manufacturer, they will be more than happy to walk you through any problems you may be having with there products.

check defrost heater with ohm meter. if it is good then adaptive board is probably bad.

That will happen if the ice is not used for a while especially in humid weather.

The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) Test Mode.

First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.

In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.


Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.

If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

A helpful schematic of the wiring can be found at the following website link http://www.applianceaid.com/images/mayadaptive-defrost.JPG

The control board will look something like this picture =>
http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/MaytagAdaptive.jpg

This is all happening in the fresh food compartment, up top which is where you will find it. It is very failure-prone, so you are definitely not the first, the relay in it is usually the failure. Be sure to unplug the fridge before disassembling or you could get a nasty shock. Been there, done that.

If you don't defrost the fridge manually, then you should let it defrost on its own by turning it off and leaving the freezer door open. Usually, I take apart the freezer and defrost the evaporator. But, if you can get by without it for a few days, just let the fridge defrost on its own.



Benjamin

It is possible that the door was not closed tighly, so the humidity built up in the duct line and the low temperature from the freezer make it turned into ice causing the clogging. The Buzzing noise turns on due to the sensorsomewhre along the disigne path. Unplug the fridge for a day and a half so the the ice in the duct line could melt down then when you turn on the sensor won't turn on the buzzing any more. Good luck.

Kindly check the following

Wiring

Thermostat

Defrost timer

Compressor

If you can hear some sound of a fan then the compressor is working..As for the other devices you have check for open circuits. You may need an assistance from a repair person.

Check also this link and it might help:

http://apwagner.wordpress.com/2008/05/22/5-common-freezer-problems/

Hope it helps and have a great day!

HI, your Temperature Control Module has failed. it controls the air flow and vent(damper) action. replacing the temp control mod will fix this issue you are having at this time.

Yes order it at www.bcaparts.com

if the freezer is cold and the fridge is not then it can be several things. The freezer could have a bunrt out defrost heater, defrost timer faulty, fan not working in the freezer??. all of these things will stop your fridge getting cold, but your freezer will still be around minus 9 deg c. you wont get any air into the fridge as the coil in the freezer is prob all iced over. Dont worry about the heat on the door frame as it is only the anti sweat heater