AMANA – Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
Glass link Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7=Shorted touch panel Verify glass to adapter board connection good, if so, replace glass panel.
All ovens have a safety valve. On that valve is a orifice which is adjustable. It is below the burner and just below the air shutter. All replacement valves come cranked all the way down for propane. So all valves must be adjusted. You use a 7/16th wrench and turn the nut slowly while watching the flame on the flame spreader and the ideal setting is halfway up the spreader but no more. if the flame is more than that then the bottom of your food will be burned. If it is less than that then you will hae the condition you describe above. Another thing to look at is the oven glow bar amp draw. If it is dim orange it is probably bad and slowly going out. Should be very bright, so bright you cannot look at it long. Tapping on the oven safety valve can make kick on. Replace the ignitor if that is the case. If this is a DSI model you might just have a bad or contaminated ignitor. The ignitor does 2 functions, verifys flame is present and light the flame. if it gets junk on it it will act up. Cleaning the rod with sandcloth or simply replacing it will fix the problema. Looking at your model i see yours has a simple glowbar. If it does not draw 3.5 amps it is bad. A noticable indication of a bad glowbar is it is dim orange. It should be very bright hard to look at for long. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Hello Kim....Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself. The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven). The thermostat is defective. The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective. The selector switch is defective.
That said, if you want to see excellent diagrams of all of the parts of your stove, go to searspartsdirect.com
Enter the model number and these diagrams will appear for your use. You can also order parts from that site, although your local appliance parts store may be less expensive. Joe
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Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265; rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108. Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
EOC may need changing electronic oven controler its a pcb. try blowing of the dust checking wires to and from and spraying with wd40 before buying a new one
