20 Most Recent Amana AMV5164 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

If you wish to get some details about microwave oven and its working ; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.... http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/

You can use normal glass cleaner or bleach with anything but metal abrasive pads

see the block diagram, unppluged the machine, and disconnect only 1 wires or 2 wires and wrapping with electric tape individual.However I will NOT recommend to do this, because the fan cool the magnetron, that emite radiation for heating the foods.God bless you

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101
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If the model number is correct, there is a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave. Its usually mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. I found this illustration at pcappliancerepair.com based on the model number you listed this question under:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
The line fuse is listed as item 12 (part number 56001353). Keep in mind, there are different vairations on the model number you provided. You need to look at the model number you have and include the last three letters as well. I reviewed most of these models and they appear to all have the same parts. You can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended. If you wish to order on line, use the part numbers to search by comparison as the model number you listed this question under may not be available at all the websites I have provided. The parts, however, ARE listed.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the screws you need to remove.

Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) here that demonstrates how it's done.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here. I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Assuming there's nothing else on the same fuse/breaker as rthe microwave (and of course there should not be) then I would say you have a failing high voltage transformer in the microwave.

Here is a link you or someone you know can use for high voltage section test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hello Carol95,
I would doubt that the heat generated from the cook surface beneath the micro caused any damage to the micro however the fact that you had a power surge is the more likely culpret. It is possible that a power surge took out an internal component, such as the magnetron, thermal fuse, filament transformer or something else but the cost of a repair call may warrant a replacement MW anyway. Why pay for a service call if all you will learn is that your MW was damaged from that surge? and the cost to repair would exceed the cost to replace.. There are virtually no servicable parts inside the micro that the homeowner should attempt to fix.. If you do not know what you are doing, you can get seriously injured or compromise the RF shield in just gaining access to the inner compartment. You might luck out and learn that the failed component is a simple and inexpesive repair ... so you weigh the risks..
Hope that helps you decide how to approach this..

Regards,
Rick

After so many years, the electrolytic filter capacitors dry out and these become more susceptible to disruptions and glitches.

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, I would say your control unit (called the "net module") needs to be repaired or replaced.

If this item is available anywhere, it may take several weeks to get and will likely run well over $150.00.

If you decide to look for parts, the proper model number format is RRL-9TC and it also has one of four manufacturer numbers on its tag: P7553302M, P7553303M, P7553304M, or P7553306M.

Be sure to have both numbers handy.

The original part numbers for the net module seem to have been R0163049 and then R163079A.

Good luck.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The two possible causes are a faulty door switch and a bad magnatron. You can pull the top cover off of the unit and check all of the door switches (there are 2-6 of them all on a common rail, me normally closed)). If the door switches all check out, replace the magnatron, diodes, and capacitor.

If you don't have the onwer's manual, it's online here:

 

http://www.fixya.com/support/p50922-amana_amv5164_1000_watts_microwave_oven/manual-1726/page-5

 

See page 7 for Control Setup button functions.

Sounds like a loose connection or a failing hood thermostat. That's right behind the control panel on the base plate. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://www3.sears.com/

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiUw7318_L-AhX-GTQIHUoVBacQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.repairclinic.com%2FRepairHelp%2FHow-To-Fix-A-Microwave%2F71-199--%2FAmana-Commercial-Microwave-Microwave-Display-Not-Working&usg=AOvVaw1_3-brehj_-McaojgE7G2S

If the fan in your Amana 10D microwave stays on and doesn't shut off until the unit is unplugged and re-plugged, there could be an issue with the fan motor or the control board. Here are some things to try: 1. Check to make sure the vent is clear and unobstructed. If the vent is blocked, it can cause the fan to stay on. 2. Check the fan motor. The fan motor is responsible for turning the fan on and off. If it is faulty, it can cause the fan to stay on continuously. 3. Check the control board. The control board is responsible for controlling the functions of the microwave, including the fan. If it is faulty, it can cause the fan to stay on or not function properly. If none of these solutions fix the issue, it is possible that there is a problem with the microwave itself. In this case, it is recommended to contact a professional appliance repair service for further assistance.

FIXYA doesnt sell parts or products --online search or appliance repair shop in your area

Your Amana Radarange is overdue for retirement. Best to not even try.