LG 42PC3D 42 in. Plasma Television - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

We need to know what make and model to accurately answer this question, but if you have a Sony, here is the information -
Many of the later model Sony TV’s have a built in self-diagnosis function. If the timer/standby indicator is blinking, this could be an indication of a problem with the unit. The diagnostic blinking will occur automatically with no action required by you to engage it.
The timing of the blinking you see would be as follows: two to nine blinks, (depending on the fault), about a third of a second apart, then a pause for 3 seconds, then the two to nine blinks about a third of a second apart again. Here is a list of the problems that might have occurred indicated by the number of blinks.
Unit is dead, No blinks - Problem in the standby power section. Might check fuse, R607, Q601, IC601, R612 and VDR601 (should show open).
Continuous blink once a second, no pausing - No reply from the jungle IC301 (data bus is busy, shorted to ground, or held high), IK video path is defective.
One blink - not used for the self-diagnosis
Two blinks - B+ over current protection (OCP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 2 blink fault. Could be a short in the power supply of any of the circuits.
Three blinks - B+ over voltage protection (OVP), unit goes to the standby mode then displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply circuit, check T603 and R672.
Four blinks - No vertical Deflection (V STOP), Screen goes to a single horizontal line then the video signal muted. Check IC1509, Q1505
Five blinks - AKB circuit (automatic kine bias), the timer/standby indicator blinks for about 30 seconds then goes to the self-diagnosis function. Something is wrong with the video. Check video out, Q705, 732, 761 and other components on the C board, also check Q218, 219, 220 on the A board. In addition, unit could be in IK blanking, try turning up screen slightly.
Six blinks - No Horizontal (H STOP), no raster, goes to the blinking self-diagnosis function immediately. Check C515 & 516 and the jungle IC, IC206.
Seven blinks - High voltage shutdown. The high voltage has exceeded 33k and the unit goes immediately into safety shutdown. Check power supply regulation and horizontal circuits.
Eight blinks - Problem with the audio (AUDIO), unit goes to standby and blinks the self-diagnosis code. Check IC406 audio amp, PS401, and 402. On some projection models of Sony TV sets, this code means that T8005 (flyback transformer), or the associative components in the high voltage circuits are defective on the D board.
Nine blinks - Replace D 6116 and D 6301 on the "G" board, do not resolder as this will fix the problem temporary. Or Panel Module Error or Thermal Error. If it is intermittent 9 blinks, meaning sometimes the TV comes on and other times you get flashing, then change the switching regulator on the "G" board or check connections. Make sure the regulator is -12 or -13 (negitive).
Ten blinks - Check Q8014 and Q8013 for shorts, leakage, or bad solder connections on the " D" board. If the transistors are bad, check R8051 and IC8005, also on the "D" board.

Y-SUS/Main is bad. Is the snow red pixilated?

Sounds like one or more boards in your signal process has failed, but most common is the Y-Sustain. When this happens, you only get audio and no picture when the TV is powered on.

Call LG and them know you understand this is a know issue for this TV and you're ASKING for a warranty repair of this knownn issue.

800-243-0000 Before you call be sure to have the complete model and SR number. Example 42PC3D UA.AUSSLJR, 809HJB2983485

Good luck.

Hello,

A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!

Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).

If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:

Degauss Posistor - very likely.
Horizontal output transistor.
Power supply regulator if there is one.
Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
Diode(s) in main bridge
Main filter capacitor(s).

You should be able to eliminate these one by one.

Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.

First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.

Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.

Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.

If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.

C-E should be high in at least one direction.
B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.

If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.

If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.

Of course, not much else will work either.

If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.

Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.

If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.

A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

Hope this help....

U can't fix this problems,this tv is slowly have dead pixels on the screen panel burn in.

you need to replace your y- sus board

Hello,
since you have change the fuse in plug, this indicate that your plug is okay, the likely problem is from the television which will require you to open the television to check for fuses, bulged capacitors, but if otherwise your power supply is dead.It can be dead at anytimes.Tries websites Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
Hope this help.....

Hi,
if your TV warranty is not out of date then claim a new one..however it takes many days to process
so I recommend you to troubleshoot your universal remote controller
i assume that you are using RCA universal controller
1. Press and hold CODE SEARCH until the INDICATOR LIGHT lights, then release CODE
SEARCH.
2. Press and release the device button for the device’s code you are retrieving (TV,VCR or
DBS•CABLE). The INDICATOR LIGHT will blink once then remain lit.
Note: For AUX, press DVD•AUX then the device button for the code you are retrieving.
3. Press and release CODE SEARCH. The INDICATOR LIGHT will turn off.
4. Starting with 0 on the keypad, press the number buttons in order (0-9) until the
INDICATOR LIGHT blinks.
5. The number which causes the INDICATOR LIGHT to blink is the first digit of your code.
6. Repeat step 4 until you have retrieved all three numbers in code..

RCA: 004, 005, 006, 012, 019 ,056, 057, 058, 155, 156, 171, 172
if it fails buy and try ge universal remote

NOTE:
it is a good to note down down your code

Check this site to find the speakers for your TV.

If your set is under warranty period, bring your TV to the dealer to apply this one, because the defect can be a plasma module defective

how dar is the picture ?
i can help you if you have more details

If you are not getting an image, only sound, then there is a problem with one of the drive boards on the TV. This typically is the Y-Sustain and sometimes the Y-drive board(s).
If your TV is still under the one year warranty, you will want to call LG for service. Some of the boards in your TV may have a two year warranty. LG service number -800-243-0000.
I can get you LG part numbers if you need them. Good Luck.

That usually indicates that the power section driver board (one of them) has failed on you.There are three boards each of which can fail and cause this. Usually it is the Y or Z board.

Bad news is to know which one you need to be able to test inside the tv. Good news is the boards are fairly cheap around $35. So you probably will have to take it to a repair shop to get it fixed. Unless they really try to do a number on you as far as prices it is worth fixing. However be a bit cautious here and get and estimate and find the price of a new tv. If the markup on the parts and the labor gets close to the new tv cost then you will need to decide if it is worth fxing or replacing. Ie used tv or new tv with warrenty.

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Most likely a power supply component has aged and thus changed value and/or failed. Take it to a reputable repair person.

The problem is with the voltage capacitors and transformers on power circuit board.Some of them has burnt off and so only you are having this smell and popping sound.You have to take voltage readings and test power supply components such as bridge rectifiers and capacitors. If there is no voltage rating you need to replace that part if not you have to check the soldering joints and solder it again.

Well, first question would be is anything plugged in, and is currently outputting any content? Some televisions will only display input devices that are being fed some kind of content in list form. Like my Westinghouse...when my PS3 is on, my little HDMI3 will show up with a square indicating content....when it is off....HDMI3 is not listed. I'm sure you can however manually scroll through inputs on your remote, and you will find your AV2 HDMI.

The flashing indicator is telling you the fault. Give the number of flashes to the LG service department and they can help you with your issue. It will likely need service.

Often removing the batteries resets the remote's circuitry.

If you still have a problem it is probably an activated button on the remote that needs to be freed.

If there is no visible damage press each remote button with a soft tip like a cotton swab and lightly wiggle it to pop the conductive plastic back to shape. Think of a wool hat with one side pushed in...you might need to take it apart. If you use a magnet to keep small screws and GO SLOW taking picture or notes as the pieces are plastic and are easily layered.

Check to see if you get Va and Vs voltages from the power supply. There should be some wires running to the y-sus. A couple of those wires will be labeled va and vs. Are they present? There will be a sticker stuck to the panel somewhere telling you what they should be.

The Main Tuner signal board is dead.Replaced this board will solved this.Tries Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish Tuner signal board for the replacement.