20 Most Recent Amana SXD524VW Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 9 Questions & Answers

If your water tastes ok without the fridge then you'll need to replace or clean the piping inside the fridge.
If your water has the same smell and taste without the fridge then you'll need a better grade filter on the water going into the fridge.
If it's in your fridge piping try going to a plumbing supply and ask them for a cleaner to run through the fridge!
jack

the fuse for the i/m is actually in the wiring harness that plugs into the icemaker. if the model is correct the icemaker goes across the back of the freezer. when you installed the icemaker on one of the wires (i think red wire) there is a black "pill" looking thing. this is the fuse. 

first do you have any heat from the compressor ? ( back bottom of the fridge) is the evaporator fan running. let me know and I can help..

my amana SXS was not cooling properly. I took off the cover inside the back of the freezer to see if the defroster was working. it was so I timed the cycle. It was about 50 minutes. I decided that it was staying on defrost too long and too often. I replaced the defrost timer and the thermostat(since I bought both for about 40 bucks.) Previously, I had cleaned the coils underneath with a special 'refrigerator coil brush' from Home Depot. ($4) But that alone didn't fix it . works like new now with new parts.

you may want to go ahead and replace the fan and relay,,one or both are going to be bad

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

ooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:


• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater



If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

icemaker wont dump ice

Thanks for the 'follow-up'

Got it fixed with a new defrost temp gadget - thanks for your help

I would suggest you check the interior fan(s) operation ( controlled by a door switch to run when door is closed). check air passageway between freezer and fresh food compartment for obstructions and proper damper position - dampers have been known to mysteriously 'close by themselves, also check to see on objects extend behind the shelves - mfgs tend to want unobstructed rear air flow. Check External fan near compressor/condenser coils, sometimes a fan is present to help evaporate defrost water. Check proper defrost heat element operation. Sometimes there are multiple defrost elements - one for the freezer, one for the fresh food compartment controlled by different contacts in the defrost timer.

normal to have frost accumlulation, on the evaporator coil, not normal to see it coming thoughthe back panel, which is indictitive of defrost prblem, you can remove the back panel inside freezer compartment and look forthe thermostat( 2 wires leading to a round thermostat clipped onto the top coil of evap, simple to replace simply cut out old and wire in new one heres the part number R0161087

there is a drip pan under the freg. check the drain hole at the buttom fo the freeze side. make sure it is open.
you can get to the drain pan via front grill. pull the front grill. and you will see the drain pan.

Ebay item number 200261541937 is a repair manual that might help!

Premmy

Our refrigerator had a strong smell and it was freon leaking into the frig.

check continuity thro the fan motor and check it rotates freely

call a technician, you need a freon recharge.

not going thru defrost cycle

first check you freezer back for frost if a lot of frost defrost the whole freezer ,,, then plug back in and see if it will work..

let me know

The water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator at the bottom is becoming clogged. There is only a very small hole in the diaphram of the valve. I suspect you have very hard water, or at least a fair amount of sediment in the water.
This valve will most likely need to be replaced by a qualified technician.
They sometimes can be cleaned, but it doesn't always work.

attempt to pry off the plastic cover over the ice-maker (or look for screws). You should see at least one screw adjustment and clockwise turn is more water.